which sub is better out of these ones..?

Elemental Designs

 

holy crap!when did this happen.this was 500 before....
Elemental Designs

 

oh it discontinued

 

New PowerBass PB-B1564v.2 15” Car Subwoofer 400W Sub NR - eBay (item 110226050433 end time Feb-26-08 18:09:16 PST)

even this inexpencive sub will work in the right box

 

DOUBLE 12" LOADED 1500 W PORTED SUBWOOFER SUB BOX +GIFT - eBay (item 280202147642 end time Feb-25-08 19:10:19 PST)

cheap with a box

 

New Pair 250 Watt PowerBass PB-1044 10 Inch Car Subs NR - eBay (item 130199512673 end time Feb-25-08 17:56:48 PST)

 

lol, pedro your links are disappearing. He can have a 1700 watt system and just have to do the big three and possibly the alternator later on to a 200 amp, once it's hooked up he will know. Here's another option.

This would be the total package if your looking for a powerful sound performance for your car, it includes Two(2) Kicker S12L7-4 ohm Subwoofer that gives-out an outstanding 3000W (1500W rms) this sub is guaranteed to produce clear and strong bass, the Hifonics BXi1606d amplifier will perfectly power the two subs efficiently, this amp produce 1600 watts x 1 chan @ 1 Ohm, this will deliver the best Bass out of your subs without any distortion whatsoever, and finally the free amp kit that would be the perfect match for these whole bass system. With this whole bass system, we will assure each customer's that the sound quality is in its top audio performance.

BXi1606D

Features:

* 1-Channel Mono-Block Operation
* RMS Power (4 ohms) : 550 watts x 1 chan.
* RMS Power (2 ohms) : 1100 watts x 1 chan.
* RMS Power (1 ohm) : 1600 watts x 1 chan.
* Signal-to-Noise Ratio >95 dB
* Super D-Class Topography
* Ultra-Fi MOSFET Outputs
* Illuminated Hifonics Logo
* PMW MOSFET EXVP (Exponential Vari-Power Supply)
* SPC Twin Turbo-Torroids with Simpatico Coil Design
* Fully Adjustable Accu Cross
* Crossover Includes:
o 24 dB Subsonic Filter (Adjusts 15 Hz - 50 Hz)
* Bass Boost: Variable Bass Equalization (+18 dB @ 45 Hz)
* Remote Bass Control Included
* Balanced Line Inputs with Optional Hifonics MM-BLD-1
* Gold RCA Line Outputs
* Permits Amplifier Daisy-Chaining
* 4 Gauge Power Connectors
* Dimensions: 13.77"L x 10.39"W x 2.63"H

S12L7-4 ohm

Features:

* TWO (2) 12" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils
* Power range: 50-750 RMS watts (375 watts per voice coil)
* Peak power: 1500 watts
* Frequency range: 20-100 Hz
* SoloKon aluminum-treated composite cone with Santoprene surround
* Cast-aluminum basket
* Sensitivity: 88.84 dB
* Mounting depth: 6-5/8"
* Sealed box volume: 0.88-2.00 cubic feet
* Ported box volume: 1.75-3.25 cu. ft.

$598.15 An amp wiring kit comes with it.

 

thats great, but he said no kicker subs.

also i'm trying to point out that you can get great bass with out having thousands of watts of power,and without having to upgrade your whole electrical system.

i see alot of people at shows with cheap"2000 watt" amps and wonder why it sounds like crap running off of the stock electrical system.

if you have the money. then do it big.if your on a budget then start small and buy stuff you can reuse when you upgrade.

my advice.get a good 2 ch amp(for the sub) that can be used agian to run your mids/highs after you save up to get a huge sub amp,and alt swap.

 

I want do so a bunch of cheap subs in a big sealed box someday...should be a nice ground pounder.

 

Parts Expressyle PLW12BL 12" Blue Cone Woofer

some of these in your hatch.

4 maybe 6 of em

 

ok, i see what you mean, i guess everyone has different experiences with car audio. Someone like me LOL, who has fried countless amps and subs from $50.00-$400 because they were all weak or my electrical was weak and i tried to make them do things that they weren't designed to do. like play loud and hard lol. I probably trashed easy $1500 worth of **** all to try and get to a point i have almost reached now. Now i paid over $700 for my orion which i plan to keep for life if it lasts or i don't get punked off. Next the sub, will be around $500-$700 and i'm hoping i will finally be done with this. I don't want to be doing this forever. I will need the electrical upgrades too but that's what it's going to take for me too be happy with my system. I wish i would have known and done this first before i wasted all that cash, but live and learn! Not trying to give you a hard time pedro at all, just want to understand car audio as much as possible. I have no more deals for that amount anyways, I'll leave you alone now lol.

 

Pyle blue label.lol I actually had one of those before. I put it in my wifes old car and sold it with the sub in it. it worked and did create a little bass, my wife was happy with it at the time.

 

the 13kv.2/ov.2 will pound hard for sure.

 

Never will I go Pyle lol

 

LOL. long story... I had kinda like a bazooka sub in a round box, i screwed up the sub and that was the only sub i could find that sounded half decent in the enclosure so i got it. It was a cheap fix at the time. that was a few years ago.

 

MTX make some solid high power amps, i had a tc6001 it was nice. I did manage to fry it though it was used. I just noticed how many hits this thread has, haha, it's kicking ass.