what do you think of this system?

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by psycho_maniac, Feb 22, 2007.

  1. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    Thanks for that aznboi. Is there anything else I should get for this system? How many amps should I be looking for a alternator? Should i run 2 or 0 guage for everything (the big 3 and my power and ground wire)
     
  2. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    New alternator is not necessary unless you are gonna be running like 2000 watts rms.

    Wiring kit will depend on how big of an amp you are going to get but you can never go too big...I'm only gonna be running about 1400 watts rms soon but I'm doing everything in 0 gauge...the bigger the better and it won't hurt anything.

    So 0 gauge for your big three and power and ground., though 2 gauge will do fine if you can't afford 0 gauge
     
  3. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    Thanks. Whats a good 0 gauge install kit? I found a 0/1 gauge install kit but it had a 300A ANL Fuse. I don't think I need a fuse that big. lol
     
  4. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Yes you do....the fuse rating for the wire has nothing to do with the amplifiers fuse rating...it is to protect the wire from burning up in the event of a short.

    Only thing you should remember about wire fuses to to not use a fuse that exceeds the wires current handling capabilities

    200-300 amp fuse is good for 0 gauge wiring.

    As for a good quality kit...best deal is this kit
    http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KLM-AK0
     
  5. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    I was wondering what amp I should get with these 2 L7s? I know Dave suggested to get the 1606d, but i have also been suggested that I get the 2006d.

    2006d
    1606d
    Kicker L7
     
  6. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    If you can afford it than the 2006D will run a little cooler and less likely to clip...but will be harder on your electrical.

    the 1606D will do perfectly fine though...just one costs more than the other

    a difference of 400 watts is not going to be noticeable
     
  7. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    The price doesn't bother me. Just wanted to make sure my subs wont explode while I'm driving down the road. :lol:
     
  8. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    they won't explode...a pair only needs 1500 watts rms total and they will pound.
     
  9. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    OK now i need some speakers for my car. I have 4 Lightning audio speakers but they sound like crap. I think some baffles will help. Also what is the purpose of a amplifier hooked up to the speakers? I have never hooked up speakers to a amplifier before. I wish i could buy this stuff now so my list doesn't get bigger
     
  10. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    most decent head units out on the market can only put out around 16-20 watts of CLEAN power...adding an external amp for the speakers will make them louder, sound cleaner, last longer, and handle more power (depends on high pass frequency)

    You can make your exhisting speakers sound good...make sure they are mounted solidly and have NO air leaks around the speaker frame. Possible get some baffles like in Daves thread about his Ranger...or polybag them
     
  11. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    I think what I'm going to do is get those baffles and polly fill and then seeing how my speakers sound with them. and if the sound like **** I'm probably going to get new ones. I was thinking some pioneers like these 6x9s
    and these 6 3/4s right now i have these lightning audios and the same kind for the front but there 6 1/2s
     
  12. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    I don't like Lightning Audio...they suck

    They are the boner subs over at wallmart
     
  13. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    Yeah I know. I got the 6x9s for like 20 bucks I think and I got the 6.5s for free woohoo. Great deal !!! lol. What do you think of those pioneers?
     
  14. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    I really like those...I used to have a couple sets...for the price I really liked the way they sounded
     
  15. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    How big should my Alternator be? How many amps?
     
  16. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    how much total rms power are you going to be running???

    What vehicle is this???
     
  17. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    This is a 95 eclipse and i will be running the 2000wrms hifonics amp (i know the rms is NOT what it actually runs ) and the subs are 1500wrms total. Also I will have 3 gauges and a Afc(for turbo) running. If that helps by telling you I have accessories running.
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2007
  18. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    I would get atleast a 150 amp alternator...make sure that the alt puts out plenty of power at idle
     
  19. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    Should I get a new battery also? When I bought the car it already had a new battery but I read on here that the Duralast Gold is a good battery. How much does usually cost? I don't know if that will fit in my car though lol.I looked at the duralast gold batteries and they aren't that too expensive. (i must of looked at a old thread because the one I was looking at said 150 bucks) I found one at autozone for about 80 bucks. I noticed on the duralast cold they have 700 cca. I have a battery sitting around here that is 1050 crank amps and 850 cold crank amps. Should I use this instead. How do I get this battery tested.
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2007
  20. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Cold cranking amps is not really a spec you really need to look at...because at no time will your amp demand 600 amps or higher at all.

    I have a Duralast Gold and it works awesome, it costed me about 60-70 bucks at Autozone...I would upgrade your underhood battery.

    If you already have that 1050CA battery than you could install it in the rear.