Viking Audio

Might as well, i can't turn back now lol. I have a vision! Good thing about it is when it's done and nice, everyone wants one lol, good for business.

 

Sweet! Thanks! By top coat you mean clear coat yes? I can't wait until it warms up again so i can get back to it. Been driving around with no boom and i need boom lol. It's snowing here now again, supposed to get like another 15cm. Oh if i get a buffing pad for my drill will that work?

 

HAHA, Thanks I'm getting excited lol. Sorry one more thing, will these stickers be ok to put on after it's painted and wetsanded and then clear coat over top of them so they are like sealed in.

 

gotchya, thanks alot! I was just looking at the space behind the back seat today where it's going, it's going to look sick! lol

 

It was a descent day out sunny anyways, around 2 degrees out lol. So i wanted to make sure my amp rack actually fit and i needed my bass back in my system so i installed my amp again. I removed the pac 200 relay and the red flea market short pieces of wire i was using.

Beefed up the battery ground in the back to 2/0 gauge, the positive i used some of my blue 1/0 to my distro block and out from there i found some leftover pieces of bassworx 4 gauge to go to my amp, same as the battery negative to my amp. I might whittle down some 1/0 gauge in the future to go to my amp, it only accepts 4 gauge. Subwoofer box in the back seat and wow lol. Wonder if they would allow that for competitions.

I ended up with a new problem, my distro block has a digital voltage readout and the unit turns on from the ground or positive but positive is always on so i was thinking to put a switch on the ground that goes to the readout and run the switch back up to the front. I can see this is going to be a pain. I don't want to use the relay which i took out if i don't need it. So the digital voltage readout is on now and all the time, wonder how much of a drain it is.

 

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huh? lol is that my frigin power problem, that stupid sheet metal ground? I don't know where else to ground it, the car is all like pieces welded together.

The distro block is wired up and has been on for like an hour now, i'll go out and see if it turned off. The meter thing, i don't know will check tommorow.

 

I guess i gotta run a 0 gauge ground to the front battery with this car? Or maybe i can drill a hole through by the back tire to get at the actual frame of the car if there is one? lol

I just checked the digital readout, it's still on, nice bright red numbers, it says 12.1 volts. Is there a negative relay, just a small one, can be like 5 amp, just for the distro block and readout.

 

I think i can use something like this and then just use the negative output to go to the display? Or would it give a separate negative trigger? I'm confused lol.

eBay Motors: 12V/12 VOLT 30/40A SPDT RELAY w/ SOCKET & WIRE HARNESS (item 320219371299 end time Feb-24-08 20:52:49 PST)

This auction is for a BRAND NEW Heavy Duty 12V Automotive Relay with Wiring Harness and Socket. These come in a complete set with a 30/40 amp 12 volt relay, 5 wire relay socket, and 12" leads on the wiring harness.

These can be used in a variety of ways but are popular for high amperage applications such as Fuel Pumps, HID Headlights, Strobes, Fog Lights, Stereos, Air Ride Suspensions, Fans, Air Horns, Car Alarms, Remote Starts and so much more. They can be used in conjunction with a switch or using any 12V + or - trigger. A trigger can be anything from the accessory or ignition circuit to a switch which provides a positive or negative trigger. They can even be used with your aux output from your alarm!

Here are some of the things you can do with an alarm: Turn on your radio, lights, undercar lighting, remote start, pop the trunk, reverse polarity, door locks, pop doors, turn on domelight, honk the horn and more. Some functions will require additional parts to do. These are just examples of what installers will use relays on.

 

Hifonics XX Maxximus 10,000 RMS @ 2 Ohms
SoundStream XXX-10000D 10,000 RMS @ 1 Ohm (New for 2006!)
Phoenix Gold Titanium Elite MPH10K 4 X 2500 RMS @ 2 Ohms (under developement)
JBL A6000GTI 8100 RMS @ 4 Ohms
MA Audio HK10KD 5000 Watts RMS @ 1 Ohm (New for 2006!) 7000 RMS @ 17.5V
SoundStream XXX-6500D 6500 RMS @ 1 Ohm
Earthquake PHD10000W 6000 RMS @ 2 Ohms
Orion HCCA-D5000 5000 RMS @ 1 Ohm (New for 2006!) CEA Certified 2500 RMS
Hifonics XX Goliath 5000 RMS @ 1 Ohms
AudioBahn A5000SPL 5000 RMS @ 1 Ohm
MA Audio HK-802SX 4400 RMS @ 1 Ohm (High Current)
Power Acoustik SL-5500D 4200 RMS @ 1 Ohm ((New for 2006!)
Memphis M3 Mojo 4000 Watts RMS @ 1 Ohm
AutoTek MM4000.1D 4000 RMS @ 2 Ohms
Rockford Fosgate T4001BD 4000RMS@ 1 Ohm (New for 2006!)
Zapco C2K4KW 2 X 2000RMS @ 2 Ohms
Clif Designs CDX-20A 3600 RMS @ 2 Ohm (Class X)
MA Audio HK-602SX 3600 RMS @ 1 Ohm (High Current)
MA Audio HK-4000D 3600 RMS @ 1 Ohm (Class X)
Visonik V4000XD 3500RMS @ 2 Ohm
Hifonics XX Colossus 2 3200 RMS @ 2 Ohms
JBL A3000GTI 3129RMS @ 4 Ohms
US Amps AX-3000DE 3000 Watts RMS @ 1 Ohm (New for 2006!)
AutoTek MX-3000.1 3000 RMS @ 2 Ohms (Class X)
Earthquake PHD5000W 3000 RMS @ 2 Ohms
Boss Audio PD-4000 2 X 1500 RMS @ 1 Ohm (High Current)
Rockford Fosgate T30001bd 3000 RMS @ 1 Ohm
MMats D3500.1/3500.05 2700 RMS @1 or .5 Ohms (New for 2006!)
SPL DK-3400D 2600RMS @ 1 Ohm ((New for 2006!)

 

oops, did i post that lol. Orion-Kicker-Solobaric-Mtx-Infinity