hey azn, what do you think the volume of my trunk is now, the faceboard is back about 6 inches from the trunk opening at the top. Should i bother with ports or leave it sealed.
Leave it sealed....the trunk will not be completely sealed....there will still be air leaks here and there so that willl degrade the sound if ported. Just sealed up that rear deck really good from air leaks....VERY NICE by the way
Videos, sorry about the distortion, it's the camera. YouTube - Elemental Designs 18" YouTube - bass test
no bad...yeah you were distorting the mic of that camera pretty badly haha Do you have a battery box for the battery in the rear?? There like 5 bucks at wal mart
Well pedro, i'm finished lol, there will be no flexing, only my dash moving if the windows are closed lol. I'm happy with it now, my poor ears are ringing all the time now and popping. 1000 watts of bass is plenty for me. Just need to finish up the fiberglassing and some carpeting and add one more small amp for my fronts. I can always switch two wires on the subwoofer and double my power but i don't think that amp or speaker would like me too much anymore lol. Hey Viking you around? Is the fan in the orion supposed to be on all the time or does it kick on and off, i haven't felt it running last few times i checked. I only run a song or two at a time then let it cool down, she gets hot. Orion 2100 Competition Amplifier Bridged @ 2 ohms The battery, i will probably just build a place for it when i decide whether to fiberglass the front too or just carpet it. May build in a few lighted computer fans too, to help cooling the amp.
go with the extra fans.it cant hurt. does it shut down anymore?of blow fuses? and if your ears are really ringing.TURN IT DOWN MAN!! thats your body telling you"HEY!! THIS HURTS!!!"
if that battery isn't a sealed lead acid it WILL leak out some acid and eat through the carpet and turn it to mush
No, i made sure to get a sealed one, it's actually a Honda battery lol, says right on it. Got it from a scrap yard up north, it tested good when we put a charger to it. Also my alternator was only putting out 13.1 - 13.5 volts and it was still under warranty so i grabbed another 130 amp. This one puts out 14.2-14.5 volts. I haven't blown any fuses and i've been pumping it lol, but only a song or two at a time. I ended up with two 60's inside the amp where they are supposed to be 30s but i have an 80 amp fuse between the battery and amp at the back. so i figure each channel can pull up to 40 amps and anything over it will blow the fuse at the rear battery. Also i am using the mono button so there shouldn't be a difference between the two channels drawing power i hope lol. I know Viking is going to give me hell for this lol. Maybe i can find some odd amperage rated fuses like a 75 amp or a 70 at the battery and two 40s in the amp i guess would be best. I just want the battery fuse to blow before the amp fuses because they are a pain to change. Also those 30s that i blew before in the amp went very fast so i think the orion must pull around 70-75 amps when cranked.
quoted from here FUSES "Fuse Opening Time: A fuse does not blow when the current reaches its rated current. It is designed to pass its rated current without opening. A fuse will take varying times to blow under different conditions. A fuse will pass significantly more than its rated current for a very short time. It may take 10 minutes or more to blow a fuse at 25% over its rated current. The table below is an example of the specifications for a slow blow fuse. You can see that a 20 amp fuse may pass 40 amps of current for as long as 5 minutes before blowing although it probably wouldn't take a full 5 minutes to blow. The times for other fuses will be slightly different."
if your blowing fuses then something may not be right. i have 3 40amp fuses at my dist.box and a single 80 under the hood. speaking of under the hood fuses. my fuse holder is dry rotting out.the plastic is cracking bad. who makes one that can handle high underhood temps for a long time.i'll admit i bought a cheapy cause it was 5 bucks.i bought 2 so for now i'll put that one in. and it mounted as far away from the engine block as i could put it.it's actually right next to the main computer near the batt.
I only blew two 30s in the amp when i first got it hooked up. None have went since, but i'm going to get it worked out. Azn i read that whole page you posted and it doesn't make sense to me, he did mention slow burn fuses for that graph. I still think they will blow shortly after their rated amperage, like seconds. Like why would they make 20 25 30 40 50 60 80 amp fuses if they don't work that way.
I used to have 8 gauge in my truck and had amps a lot bigger than what the 60 amp fuse under the hood was "rated" for and I didn't have any problems...dunno though
Howstuffworks "How Wires, Fuses and Connectors Work" The conductor inside the fuse is made of a metal similar to solder. It has a lower melting point than the wire itself. The size of the conductor is calibrated very carefully so that when the rated current is reached, enough heat is generated to melt the conductor and so break the circuit. When a fuse is blown, it must be replaced before the circuit will work. A blown fuse must be replaced with a fuse of the same amperage
How fuses work - Fuseology FUSE The verb "fuse" means "to melt". A fuse is an overcurrent responsive safety device used to protect an electrical circuit from the effects of excessive current. It is placed in series with the electrical circuit it is intended to protect. Its essential component is a strip of metal that will melt when the electric current in the circuit exceeds the fuse's rated value. The element (link) in the fuse melts and opens the circuit. NEED FOR OVERCURRENT PROTECTION When a problem exists, the fuse is called upon to open (melt its link). The opening of a fuse signifies that something is wrong with the circuit and should be corrected before the current is turned back on. The problem can be an accident, a defective component or a worn-out component. TYPES Two types of fuses are commonly used, cylindrical and plug fuses. A cylindrical fuse consists of a ribbon of fusible metal enclosed in a ceramic or fiber cylinder. This type of fuse is placed in an electric circuit so that the current must flow through the metal strip to complete the circuit. If excess current surges through the circuit, the metal link will heat to its melting point and break. This action will open the circuit, stop the current flow, and thus protect the circuit. The cylindrical type of fuse is used mostly to protect electrical equipment and appliances. Plug fuses are commonly used to protect electric wiring in homes. This type also consists of a fusible metal strip through which the current must flow to complete the circuit. The strip is, however, enclosed in a plug that can be screwed into a fusible electric panel. Plug fuses usually have a window so that the condition of the metal strip can be seen at a glance.
My ED sub is cooked HA, was nice while it lasted. That was just a test run anyways.../// Next Install will be sweeeeeeeet. Maybe 2 of them.
Would it be better for me to run the amp @ 1 ohm with two 18" subs and just not crank the stereo, maybe only go like half way on the volume. At 1 ohm the amp would heat less and be more efficient yes? And with two subs i won't have to push the system.