The Big 3....

Pyle PLCPBT25 25 FARAD/22AH Car Battery Style Capacitor


# Compact Design for Optimal Storage Possibilities
# Works with all Car 12V Installations
# Extremely Fast Recharge Rate
# Low E.S.R.
# Auto On/Off Switch Control
# Electronic Polarity Protection
# Wide Temperature Endurance: -40¦ ~ 95¦
# 25 FARAD/22AH

 

Pyle Cap or pile of crap LOL

 

pyle of crap still...please don't waste your money on this.

Upgrade all of your wiring to 0 gauge if you can first.

What kind of battery do you have back there anyways??

 

It's a Honda lol, but pretty big, not sure on the rating, i think it's at least 750

 

an older pic but that's it.

 

is it a sealed battery?

No wonder your amp pulls so much current...its twice the size of the damn battery

 

lol, i think it's sealed. I will check tommorow and see exactly what it is.

 

I recommend a Kinetik battery. Better than Optima, IMHO.

 

ok, thanks, can i get away with the cheapest one? Would it still be a LOT better than mine, this kinetik is 850 amp, about the same as what i have now. My orion can pull about 120 amps.

Kinetik HC600 Power Cell "The Cap Killer"

All Kinetik HC Power Cells Feature:
AGM Technology
Sealed Non-Spillable Design
Mount In Any Position
Ultra Low ESR
More Plates For Stronger Energy Density
Higher Voltage Under Load
Tightly Packed Cells
Superior Heat & Vibration Resistance

Weight: 14 lbs.
Ah: 20
Amps: 850
Dimensions: 7" x 3" x 6.5"
Suggested Retail: $199.00

Kinetik - High Current Car Audio Power Cells

 

Mine is a toyota lol not honda.

 

lol, there is a calculator on the site so for 2000 watts it's recommending hc2000 which is like $400.00

Kinetik - High Current Car Audio Power Cells

 

retails for 400 bucks...you can get a Kinetik 2400 for under 300 bucks shipped

 

ok, cool, i have a 1200 cca durolast gold in the front so i should be good then.

 

You can get Kinetik batteries alot cheaper on Ebay than directly on their website. Now let me back up my comment about Optimas. Alot of people "swear" by them, and then theres others that have problems with them. I know somebody who had problems with their Optima. I belong to another forum, and a member there said they went to a car audio show...the Optima was on the charger the whole time, while Kinetik lasted for days. I dont really know if they meant the companies were there or what. BTW, be careful what batteries you buy....some are just re-badged and sold for more.

 

Thanks! That's good to know..One kinetik coming up lol, time to hustle.

Kinetik-HC2400-Power-Cell

Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell
MOST POWERFUL audio cell anywhere, PERIOD! Used in the loudest vehicles in the world and boasting over 180dB when used in competition. This bad boy has more current than power cells twice its size. If you want the BEST, this is it. Providing thousands of amps at near dead short, this power cell performs best when abused.

Specifications
Weight: 69 lbs.
Ah: 128
Amps: 2600
Dimensions: 13" x 6.7" x 8.5"
Suggested Retail: $449.00

 

ugh, i think it's an inch too big for my rack. Nothing is easy...for me anyways

 

hey viking your really bloody smart

 

Bringing this thread back to life because i found out something. I may have misread or something but i wanted to mention it.

I have done the big three (alt to batt pos, ground neg terminal to engine, and ground neg terminal to chasis). Still got dimming though until this day!

Now, i read somewhere on a ford forum that the most important ground is the alternator to chasis ground!

NOTE: Realize that the "absolute ground" of the electrical system is not the battery negative terminal or the vehicle chassis, but is the case of the alternator itself. This is why perhaps the most important cable among the Big 3 is the engine ground strap, as this is what connects the alternator ground to the vehicle's chassis. Be certain the resistance between the alternator case (the engine block assuming the alternator is properly bolted to the engine) and the battery negative is minimized.

I just wanted to point that out I'll be taking care of this tonight so I'll give y'all feedback if it solved my problem.

 

sup dude? lol hope everyone is doing good. I have been a little busy, my car is doing awesome, havent gotten around to installing my sytem yet, might wait until next year, too much work lol. I had to get the engine rebuilt and a ton of parts but she's rocking now. Will post some pics and vids i took along the way for you guys! Haven't forgot about you's. CC ya they are all important, it is one big loop. The engine is usually mounted on rubber mounts so it doesn,t actually get a good enough ground so they put the strap from engine to chasssis. I notice a lot of cars where that strap is broken and the car will still run fine but when you go to hook up a heavy system there is problems.

 

Damn electro, where you been hiding????

my engine took too long to cool down so i wasn't able to work on it tonight. So should i just make a new ground from the alternator bracket to the chasis?