Suggestions for new speakers

i would say mono-axial.....
they usually are just a single midbass sized cone that very crappily reproduces sound....
what year is your car, just out of curiosity......

 

I am pretty shure its a 1996. Or at least thats what his nickname says.

 

:blink: :blink: :huh: :blink: :blink:

 

you do realize they make 3 way component systems........
or don't you? :blink:[/b][/quote]
not at all the same... triaxials are crappy for the reasons I stated. Componants arent even in the same ballpark.. BUT three way componant systems are 300% harder to get imaging right, reduce cancellation and you have three crossover points which is always detrimental as well.... not to say they cant sound as good... but its harder to do so.

 

I agree with the Monkey
3 ways tend to sound icky compared to the same 2 ways
I am refering to the coaxial vs triaxial

I have only heard a few 3 way component sets installed
and they were done by MECP certified installers
and they sounds really really nice

Most stock speakers are just a crappy paper coned mid with a "whizzer"

 

if your gettin coax. id get 2 ways...if your gettin seperates then id get 3 ways....

i thought you were talkinb about comps ealier thats why i said 3 ways....

i can agree that imaging can be harder with 3 ways but then when you only have 2 ways you can usually lack mibass and/or clarity.

 

First off, my recommendation for front speakers are the Cadence UltraShock series, you can fit 6.5's in your doors (ditching the factory plastic speaker mount doohickey).
Those UltraShocks are inexpensive, ultra-high efficiency (LOUD), and sound great. Even come packaged in a wooden shipping crate locked with an allen screw, wrapped in blue silk..
Seriously, they sound great, and get unbelievably loud. They got loud enough to begin to worry about hearing damage on a 100x2 Cadence amp.
They look like a coaxial from the front side, the tweeter is mounted over the mid coax style... but they are a component set, in that they have a separate tweeter and mid terminal on the backside, with a 12dB/octave crossover mounted remotely (I usually just hide it in the doors, this one in particular didn't have any adjustment that I recall).
If I remember right, they are just a bit over $100.. maybe $125? Amazing value, great sound quality and huge output.

 

Glad you liked them....

I reccomend them...

 

This description clearly states the "what", but not the "why" behind the designs...

IF it were POSSIBLE to build a driver that was capable of accurately reproducing all audible frequencies with a smooth response curve across the audible spectrum, that would be ideal in many ways.

People don't use 2, 3, 4 or more drivers because they want to, because "more is better".. (it almost always isn't)
But rather, because they can't get away with less.
That is, if you look at a midrange, it can't play all the way up to 20,000Hz. It can't play all the way down to 20Hz. In fact, it starts to break up and bottom out if you try to play it that low, physically harming the speaker.
So you are forced to add a subwoofer, that CAN play down to 20Hz.
So you are forced to add a tweeter, that CAN play up to 20,000 Hz cleanly.
And you are forced to add crossovers, to make sure the midrange DOESN'T play lower than it is capable of, or higher than what it can make sound clean. You need to make sure the tweeter doesn't play lower than it is capable of, and that the subwoofer doesn't play higher than what it can play cleanly.
And you need to select drivers that can work together, can share crossover points (ie. midrange plays up to 4000Hz where it is cut off, and the tweeter's high pass cuts it off at 4000Hz so it picks up where the mid stops).

The kicker with crossovers is that they create phasing anomolies, which degrade sound quality.

Ideal would be if you had no crossovers at all, one reason being because all the sound would eminate from one point.
With multiple speakers, they need to be mounted in different locations (coax types come close though!), which means differences in pathlenghs to your head. Couple that with attenuation circuits (crossovers!) that change the way a speaker sounds below the crossover frequency, affecting it's phase and frequency response, and you have inherent ugliness anywhere that you have a crossover point... the farther you move the tweeter away from the mid, the worse things can get (or, maybe I should say, the greater the difference in pathlength between the tweeter and the mid, relative distance to your ears)!

It's tough to explain, but I think I did a pretty good job putting it into laymans terms here (I definitely recommend reading it, it can help you with your decisions for speakers and install):
http://www.teamcaf.org/geolemon/Phasing/Phasing.htm

And I stand by my recommendation for the Cadence comp set, they are inexpensive, clean, a simple 2 way set (read: 1 crossover point, mid to tweet), with the mid and tweet as coincidentally mounted as reasonably possible.
If you were going all out, looking for an indisputably IASCA winning SQ image, then a comp set mounted in your stock location of course isn't ideal, but these sounded great and even imaged reasonably well in a Trans Am stock location.
I love my JL XR's, but they are 2-3x the price... (of course, they are a bargain at that)

 

they are inexpensive IF you can find them online from a reputable dealer....


You buy them locally from a shop and the "bargin' dissabppears

infact in a SMALL survey I did of my former cadence customers I found alot of Authorized Cadence dealers selling ABOVE retail price on the small amps like the Q2000