Freekin cool! The specs you have a pretty accurate. But let me discuss this amp for a minute. Some rate it at half ohm stable. and it is (for SPL, and if you have the money to repair it all the time) But I personally do not reccomend that for a daily driver audio system. This amplifier is not like all the new stuff out on the market. This amp has pretty much NO protection! Under voltage will eventually shut it down, but that is not a good thing. It has no thermal protection, no speaker ouput protection (other than the inline fuses)...This amp is made to do one thing, and one thing very well, That is to kick your ass with some of the most raw, musical power to ever be had. It is very similiar to a race car engine. When the engine is run normally without being pushed to the floor with the foot feet all the time, it will last for years as a very well tuned engine. But still have the capacity to beat some retard in the 1/4 mile. This amp is the same way. If you abuse it...it WILL throw it guts out all over the bottom of the amp cover.......literally, just like a race engine throws its rods out the side of the block when abused. This is also a very current demanding amp. high output alternator is a must and a good battery with proper electrical wiring. I suggest no lower than 1 ohm as its load. I have run them at half ohm before, but, THEY ARE NOT RATED FOR!!!!!!!!! NEVER HAVE BEEN!!!!!! Dont listen to anyone else about this! they are WRONG. Running the amp at half an ohm will not be kind to the amp, it will hate you and blow up in a short time if driven very hard, And the neat thing about class AB bipolar outputs is that it usually isnt just one or two that blows chuncks, it is usually ALL of the outputs! Run it at 1 ohm and LIKE IT!!! That means putting a 2ohm load on it in mono! If you have any questions on this thing, PLEASE ask me! You will LOVE this amp!!!!!! Congrats on your purchase!!!! I am VERY jealous!
Sweet! thanks viking, your the man! I wouldn't have gotten this if it wasn' t for you and everyones help at this site. I don't need to push this amp, i just wanted something real nice, was getting tired of cheap crappy stuff. I'd probably be happy with even 1000 watts. I was always wondering how the hell those cars are making the ground shake as you walk by with bass driving through the pavement and i think i found out how lol. So i should be looking for 2 single coil 15 inch 2 ohm woofers?
What you want are 2 single voice coil 4 ohm drivers. They will be parrelled creating a 2 ohm load, then run in mono on the amp, which will see it as a 1 ohm load.
Cool, thanks. The L7 is only rated at 750 watts rms. I can get this for $250.00 plus shipping but not sure about buying used speakers, who knows what it has been through. What do you think?
Orion H2 12 Size: 12 inch Rec. Sealed Box Dims: 0.66 - 1.00 cu. ft. Rec. Ported Box Dims: 1.00 - 1.50 cu. ft. Free Air Usage: not recommended Sensitivity: 87.3 dB Frequency Response: n/a Recommended RMS Power: 2,000W Peak Power Handling: 2,500W Impedance: dual 2 ohms
I guess this is no good by itself for my amp because parallel it would be 1 ohm then the amp would see .5 ohms? hcca 2100 g4 2 x 100 @ 4 Ohm Variable Low-pass 45Hx to TBD TBD 2 x 200 @ 2 Ohm 5kHz, variable high-pass with 2 x 400 @ 1 Ohm INTELLi Q 10Hz to 10kHz, 2 x 800 @ 5 Ohm 10db of boost with INTELLi Q 1 x 400 @ 4 Ohm remote gain capable, digital 1 x 800 @ 2 Ohm display, selectable AUX out 1 x 1600 @ 1 Ohm
yes...that sub would work...but at 4 ohms mono. Or you could use one coil on it I wouldnt buy used subs....they could have been abused pretty badly but in perfect physical shape and you wouldn't know it...pretty much anyone who is a basshead and has a sub is gonna beat on it pretty hard. A solo X needs more power to really shine...that amp would push it alright but two 12L7s would get louder on that power than a solo x 12. L7s can handle 1000 watts daily easily if the power is clean
ok, two 4 ohm kickers parallel equals 2 ohms then bridging the amp makes it 1 ohm? Is this right? When you bridge an amp it sees half the load?
yeah...so 2 ohm mono each channel sees 1 ohm. but you don't really have to get too into the specifics. Just don't go under 2 ohms mono or 1 ohm stereo
I'm confused, i think your telling me something new here. I had my bazooka amps, mtx amp and pioneer amp which all fried hooked up to two 4 ohm svc woofers in parallel with the amp bridged, so that means i was running them at 1 ohm?
yeah...1 ohm stereo and 2 ohms mono is the same load on the amp read this http://www.bcae1.com/bridging.htm
yes...but a two channel amp has two channels...it would see a 2 ohm load if you had that wired to one channel...but when both channels are bridged each takes half the load basically Here is a simple way to see it...you have a pickup truck with two individual beds over each rear tire....together the truck can haul 1000lbs....but with this 1000lbs the load is shared between the individual beds so each bed is holding 500lbs, its maximum limit. I'm not sure if this description is accurate but it is an easier way to see it...what don't you understand....there isn't much to understand besides the fact than when you bridge two channels say at 4 ohms each channel sees 2 ohms. same reason the same amp will put out the same amount of power at 1 ohm stereo and 2 ohms bridged
Ok.. I get it now, wow, i never knew that. So i fried all those amps i had by running them at 1 ohm, haha very expensive lesson. Thanks azn i do get it now.
well if the amps weren't stable at 1 ohm per channel(which I highly doubt they were) they would fry in no time only the Bazooka RS series 2 channels are 1 ohm stable
bazooka rsa150.2 stability to 1 ohm in stereo mode, 2 ohms bridged. OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH THEY ARE THE SAME DUH LOL ONLY IN REVERSE