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Kicker CVR12

Discussion in 'Subwoofer Box and Custom Fabrication' started by electrolytic, May 17, 2007.

  1. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    If I were to do it in the wood grain and cut the hole for the flush mount cup... do all 1" tweeters come with flush mount cups the same size so I could swap it out with another kind?
     
  2. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Alright I think I'm going to do this.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  3. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    what about right below there, looks like they can go flush, is that part still above the dash?
     
  4. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    [​IMG]
    everything to the right of the red line is hidden by the dash. That's where the door and the side of the dash meet.
     
  5. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Alright **** it. I'll flush mount them in the woodgrain. How do I do this without screwing anything up?

    [​IMG]
    There.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2007
  6. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Um...don't screw it up lol then you'll be fine
     
  7. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    So just cover it with a ****load of tape and use a fine tooth hole saw really slowly and carefully?
     
  8. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    lol, that looks nice there eazy, sorry i have no experience cutting that **** except with a big pair of tin snips like a maniac lol.
     
  9. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    They have these in different sizes at your building supplies place, it's like for cutting holes in wood doors for the doorhandle to go in. Might be easier and faster lol. Maybe get a fine tooth one.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Or you could take forever...use a big ass drill bit and start sanding the hole bigger after that lol
     
  11. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    lol, or a file. Make sure you tape it.
     
  12. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    First, I dont have a hole saw the right size. The way I would do this is first tape off the area. Mark the area just slightly smaller than what you need. Then drill a whole.

    At this point I would use a dremel with this bit in it.
    Multipurpose Cutting Bit

    Do not hold the dremel perpendicular to the surface you are cutting. It will try to walk on you. Instead hold it at a slight angle.

    The hole should be just a little too small for the flush mount cup. Use a sanding bit in the dremel to finish the hole.

    Sanding Band With Mandrel 1/2" 60 Grit

    Any way take your time
     
  13. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Alright when I asked these questions on the lowrider site...

    "Alright, the only thing left is setting up my amps when the ground distribution block comes.
    Here is my DMM that didn't come with good instructions.
    [​IMG]
    How do I match the amp gains on my two 400.1's?


    What should the crossover frequencies be on the 400.1's powering the subs?
    What should the crossover frequency on the 350.2 powering the components be?
    On the 350.2 it has a button that says crossover frequency... off, hi, lo... what should I set it on?
    And I want the subsonic filters on for the 400.1's correct?"

    The mod said...

    "Those amps have an adjustable input sensitivity of 125mv - 5v

    Your Panasonic h/u should have a 4v sub pre-out...

    My suggestion is to leave the gains on both amps ALL the way down...

    Set the crossover on the sub amps at 80Hz and the sub sonic at 25Hz

    Set the crossover on the 350.2 on "hi" and 80Hz..."



    Does this sound right?
     
  14. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    This is kind of a pain. Set your meter to read AC. The V with the curved line. 200-volt scale.

    Next we need a single test tone (sine wave anything between 60-80Hz will do). The voltage will change if we use music making adjusting impossible.

    Turn bass boosts down, turn everything down. Set crossovers on both amps near the same point. Turn your system on (adjust volume on HU to around 2/3) and set the gain on one of the amps using only the test tone. Measure the voltage on the speaker leads of that amp. Remember the voltage.

    Hook the meter to the other amp, adjust the gain till the voltage matches the first amp. Go back to the first amp, set the bass boost, then measure the voltage. Hook back to the second amp and adjust the bass boost until the voltage matches the first amp again.

    Do only one adjustment at a time and if you are within a volt you are close enough. Voltage will change with different tones, so use only one tone to make the adjustments.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2007
  15. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Hm... I was always told never to use the bass boosts...

    After the mod said that I asked "Alright, I assume I should leave the bass boosts on all 3 amps all the way down. On the 350.2 how should I set the gain?"

    And he answered "
    Yup, bass boost is just a distortion adder...

    Start with the gain on the highs amp all the way down...

    Make your adjustments in the h/u...

    This is if your h/u is all 4v pre-outs, check that first...

    If you do it this way, you will have a dependable clean sounding daily setup that wont burn **** up..."
     
  16. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Leave the ajustments on the HU neutral. Its ajustments are used only after the amps are dialed in. I always adjust amps with the HU set to flat. This way the HU can be used to make minor adjustments when needed.

    Bass boost is a good tool. Use it. Just use a little common sense, it shouldn't be cranked all the way up. But I like to use it instead of the bass knob or Loudness on the HU. My thinking is let the amp do the work. The higher the signal we feed the amp the higher the possibility of distortion.

    Everything above is for balancing the 2 woofer amps

    Adjust the highs amp with music, not the test tone. We only use the tone to balance the woofer amps. When using the test tone unplug the RCA's to the highs amp.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2007
  17. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Alright I've got a few questions...

    When using the DMM... which do I touch the speaker leads of the amp with, the red or black pointer? Which speaker lead, positive or negative? Do I just put the pointer in and touch the speaker wire where it's entering the amp?

    Does it matter what order I hook all my wires up? I should just take out the ANL fuse until I have it all wired up then pop that in and then I'm ready to start using the system right?

    Okay, so unplug the 350.2 RCA, set crossover frequency of all amps to 80 Hz, turn on subsonic filters on 400.1's, turn crossover on 350.2 to "hi", turn on the stereo, set headunit to flat, turn volume to 2/3, play sine wave of anything between 60-80Hz, set gain of first 400.1, measure voltage, turn gain on second 400.1 until voltage matches, do the same with bass boost, then stop. Next plug in 350.2 RCA, play music, adjust gain. Is that it?

    Should I leave the EQ at flat and not use the bass control on the headunit? My headunit's bass control goes from -6 to +6.

    My amps also have a "remote bass" jack. They come with a telephone cable and a knob for adjusting the bass. Should I use this?

    What is a "sine wave" between 60-80Hz, and where can I get one?


    Thanks a lot Ranger
     
  18. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Subsonic "on"

    The red meter wire to the + speaker on the amp and the black meter wire on the - speaker on the amp.

    Headunit bass control on "0"

    Test tones come in two forms square wave (bad, except for competition) and sine wave. I'm gonna see if I can find something on limewire.

    Do a search for Iasca, look for bass test. (won't work)

    I wonder if I can find my CD??????????????????

    Having a friend hold the meter leads while you make adjustments will make things go much easier.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2007
  19. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

  20. eazy

    eazy Full Member