Kicker CVR12

Discussion in 'Subwoofer Box and Custom Fabrication' started by electrolytic, May 17, 2007.

  1. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Personally I would not, I dont think the back wall is large enough to cause a problem. Others would disagree with me. I feel it is much more important to brace the baffle board (the board that the speaker mounts to). But your doing that with the port so your OK there.

    Bracing will not hurt as long as its place away from the port opening.
     
  2. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    Team CAT Custom Subwoofer Enclosure, wohooo, i'm almost jealous LOL, you gotta take a video when you get your system finished.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2007
  3. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Team CAT Custom Subwoofer Enclosure? lol
     
  4. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Yes this is what I mean.
     
  5. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    CAT Car Audio Talk lol
     
  6. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Ooooooooh lol. I was like wtf?

    I've got a couple short videos of the box Azn helped design, the first box I ever built...

    Video 1

    Video 2
     
  7. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

  8. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Well I hope this box sounds good. The people on the lowrider site I go on have been saying 4.5 cubes tuned to 33 Hz with 50 sq. inches of port forever. This box is 6.21 cubes tuned to 39 hz with 56.25 sq. inches of port lol. Right now I'm just worried about the lows.
     
  9. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Most of the music the youner generation listens too (rap) generally has nothing lower than 40 Hz, and most of it is around 45-55 Hz......

    Unless you play the 1812 overture, or some new age bach busters.....you will love it....
     
  10. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Okay good. The f3 is 31.5 Hz according to WinISD beta.
     
  11. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    yes eazy that's a nice span between the two numbers, this box does very well at a lot of different frequencies. It is going to bounce your car down the road lol, it is big enough where you won't lose any lows because of the size. But i'm sure it's going to be power hungry, don't be clipping those amps lol.
     
  12. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Yeah I'm going to need some help using the DMM to match the amp gains... the DMM I bought doesn't have any instructions.
     
  13. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Well I've got like two topics on the same thing right now, but oh well lol....

    Here's what I've done this morning...

    [​IMG]

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    I'm going to have to attach some small blocks to fit in between the 2 front pieces at the end of the port... then sand it all of course
    [​IMG]

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    So much for clamping...
    [​IMG]


    I think I'll brace it like this.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Great job so far, the only thing I would have done different is put the baffle boards on last. But don't change your game plan now, your on a roll. I also noticed Elmer, really good choice. It will never come apart.

    The work looks really good, have you done this before?
     
  15. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    This is my third box.

    The first box was 2.95 cubes tuned to 31-32 Hz with 25 sq. inches of port area for a single kicker cvr12. That sounded pretty good.

    The second box was a 2 chambered box, 2.5 cubes tuned to 35 Hz with 31 sq. inches of port area, for two kicker cvr12's. Unfortunately it didn't fit in my car so I never finished building it.

    Now here I am with the third box. This is the first box I've cut the pieces myself though. The other two I had the hardware store do it for me. And the first box I had a stereo shop cut the sub hole... then I found my dad had a 1970's circle saw lying around so I got a new blade for that and bought a 25 dollar jigsaw.
     
  16. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Now i just need to cut those braces, sand the edges like the port pieces, glue and screw them in place, attach the blocks at the end of the port, sand the port down, do some caulking with some paintable silicone, put the top on, spray paint the port, carpet it, and drop the subs in and wire it up.
     
  17. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    those cuts look burnt...new blade
     
  18. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    The blade is brand new. I bought it like a week and a half ago. Maybe I just need to push it along faster.
     
  19. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    is it a fine tooth blade???? those blades suck for cutting MDF
     
  20. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    It's a 7.25" steel 140 tooth blade.