Kicker CVR12

Discussion in 'Subwoofer Box and Custom Fabrication' started by electrolytic, May 17, 2007.

  1. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Basically, you got it easy, except the highs amp x-over should be all the way "down"


    There is alot of trial and error in this if you want it for SQ.....for boom boom...same thing, just not as critical....If you like the boom boom, then i would turn on the subsonic filter, just for a little extra margin of safety.....not that it will help, but it sure wont hurt either.....
     
  2. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Okay sweet. Thanks so much guys. I'm doing some of the amp rack wiring right now... the wiring that doesn't require the rack to be in my car lol. Tomorrow I'm going to hook it all up. I don't know if I'll be done with the tweeter thing, but everything else I should be done with.
     
  3. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    Nice job on the amp rack! Holy crap lol, looks sweeeeeet. The grommets make a nice finished look too.
     
  4. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Well after looking at my amp rack I've realized for the most part the ground distribution block is worthless. It makes the grounds longer... maybe it would be good if the ground terminals on the amps were in the dead center on the top lol.

    I figure I'll ground the left 400.1 and 350.2 on the same screw on the left side of the car and the right 400.1 on the right side of the car...

    Should I just run a 4 gauge ground from the 350.2? Or should I run like 6" of 4 gauge to the ground distribution block and run 1/0 gauge from that to the ground?

    [​IMG]
     
  5. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    [​IMG]

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    Not even half the wiring...
     
  6. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    damn that sh!t looks clean...keep up the good work.

    Now I need to start my own work log.

    I still have deading, new head unit, new sub, new box, new wiring, and more deadening, and speaker baffles
     
  7. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    I'd go with your original plan eazy, wire all the grounds into the distribution block, they won't be much shorter anyways and will look like **** the other way.
     
  8. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    I'd still run them through the grommets under the amp rack. I have 2 big holes on the sides of the amp rack near the back. As soon as the wires come out of there I'm going to cover them in split loom.

    If I do my ground dist. block idea, the 4 gauge from the left 400.1 to the block will be about 1.5 feet. The 4 gauge from the 350.2 to the block will be .5-1 feet. The 4 gauge from the right 400.1 will be about 1.5 feet. Then the 1/0 gauge from the block to the ground will be about 2 feet. What do you think everybody, should I keep to this original idea? Or are those grounds too long?
     
  9. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    IMO those grounds will be fine as long as your main grounding point to the chassis is GOOD, CLEAN, and VERY TIGHT with a bolt and locking nut
     
  10. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Well I'm going to use the same location as last time, I'm not sure if you remember where that is... it's a part where two pieces of sheet metal overlap.

    So should I just play a 60 Hz 10 second tone from that website to tune my sub amps? All the tones in the left column are only 10 seconds long...
    (here)

    Oh and Azn, when I use the DMM today... where do I put the probe things, on the speaker wire as it enters the amp? On the allen wrench piece that holds the speaker wire in place?
     
  11. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    i got my tones from Realm of Excursion

    They have 1 minute tones

    put them on the amp terminals....doesn't really matter whether its jamed into the speaker outputs or the screws
     
  12. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Okay sweet I'll use that 70 Hz sine wave.
     
  13. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    i always use a 50Hz tone but its all the same really
     
  14. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Well I got it all hooked up. I turned on the car and all the amp lights went green... thank god. That was my biggest fear, red protection lights lol. The bass is insane. Something about the highs/mids didn't seem right though. The components powered by the amp didn't seem any louder than the speakers powered by the headunit. It turns out I don't have a crossover for the mids/highs on the headunit, just the subs. I set the headunit to 80 Hz for the subs and 200 Hz on the amps. The gains are like 90% up and the bass boost is about 50%. The odd thing was, is even with all of that I was only getting 8.5 volt readings from the DMM... is that normal? I mean the bass was insane, water bottles completely full were jumping on my trunk lid in the air lol. I wasn't impressed with the highs/mids. I set that amp to 120 Hz and the crossover to "hi"... or so I think... it's really hard to see back there, so it might have been "off". The gain was like 1/3 and the bass boost 0.
     
  15. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    what setting was your DMM set to???

    also 90% gain and 50% bass boost sounds like you are clipping the amp
     
  16. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    i'm sure the mids/hi's dont sound loud cause the bass amps are cranked.

    whats the 350.2 4ohm power?
     
  17. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    yeah...listen to the highs with the subs turned off
     
  18. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Yes it is , but the important thing is that both woofer amps are the same.

    So is it as loud as expected?

    The front speakers is the thing you really need to deal with. Make sure they are mounted solid. You have sub controls on your radio right. Set up the front speakers with the subs Off for now. See if you can pin point what the problem might be.
     
  19. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    eazy, take your time and DONT get into a rush!!!!


    You have a nice sytem, dont smoke something from getting too radical!!!


    Like the others say, shut off the sub amp and deal with the highs on there own.......pay attention to proper phasing and output levels along with x-over frequencies.....I know ya wanna hammer the thing, but take it slow and EAZY!!!! Get to KNOW your sytem and its limits, and respect them!!!!
     
  20. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    It was the crossover switch. I put it on "hi" and turned up the gain to 50% and now it sounds great. (350.2) The bass boost is at 0 and the crossover is at 120 Hz.

    The DMM was on 200 V~ or whatever.

    Yeah I think I need to turn the gains and bass boosts down. It was just so weird. When the gain and bass boost were at 0 there was like no bass and the DMM was saying like 2.5 volts. I made both amps 8.5 volts though. Both 400.1's right now are set to 90% gain, 50% bass boost, 200 Hz, and subsonic filters on.

    I'm going to fix the gains and bass boost controls when I come back from out of town. They won't be played again until I fix the controls, so don't worry lol.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2007