Kicker 750.1 amp...what kind of subs/box?

The peak...really doesn't matter to me...cuz when messing the tuning the peak is I dunno lol

F3...I normally shoot for atleast 30Hz

 

its a combo of enclosure size, port area, input power, cone excursion, and port velocity...lol

Lower F3 only means it will be a little bit louder at lower bass notes...but has a chance of over excurting at higher bass frequencies...seems complicated but just mess with the numbers and for each box check the port velocity and cone excursion with the power input

 

Because I normally don't go with manufactures specs.

Because I like big boxes with big port area.

Because I like to say this is a box I designed, not a "yeah its build to manufactures spec". Like your box...it isn't manufactures specs but sounds damn good and gets loud right??

That box will still sound good...Kicker is one of the few manufactures that have pretty accurate recommended boxes

Most manufactures are like between 1 and 6 cu ft vented...yeah no sh!t but kicker has volume and port size and length for the needed bass

 

I'd do 2.5 cu ft per chamber tuned to about 35Hz.

 

In the ABC box???

Nope...not port noise at all...the ABC box has two resonant frequencies...and near port tuning the excursion is reduced...so it controls the cone VERY well.

No port noise at all.

Best one you can find....it uses wafer fuses which are MUCH better than the cheapo fused d-blocks with AGU fuses...Wafer/ANL fuses have better contact area and better reliabilty.

In AGU fuses the fuse inside the glass is soldered to the endcaps...in high current situations the solder can melt and the fuse will fail

 

Since you have two different amps I would do separate chambers still.

50-60 sq inches is good...that is about equal to two 6 inch round ports

If you do separate chambers with 16 sq inches of port area...the port velocity is still way too high...I wouldn't listen to them. But do as you please.

The reason I suggested getting two 400.1s is that you can do a single chamber box...which will be easier to get maximun port area at whatever tuning you want. Which will be in the end LOUDER with lower port air velocity.

 

No not really....you would still need only two RCA cables...well three if you include a small patch cable to connect the two sub amps together.

You could use the 0 gauge wire for the sub amp and keep your 4 gauge you have right now for the high's amp.

Maybe use a relay for the remote signal since you would have three amps.

90% of the car forums I've been to most of the people there are retarded