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Kicker 750.1 amp...what kind of subs/box?

Discussion in 'Subwoofer Box and Custom Fabrication' started by eazy, Oct 8, 2006.

Page 58 of 75
  1. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    CDT is pretty good
     
    aznboi3644, Mar 29, 2007
    #1141
  2. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    I was thinking of getting these for the front doors orthese.

    The components are 110 rms... the kicker amp pushes 70 rms at 4 ohm... will it still sound good? Would I be better off to put the coaxials in the front doors that are 60 rms?
     
    eazy, Mar 29, 2007
    #1142
  3. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Okay, today I went to the stereo shop, advance auto parts, and home depot because I was bored. I got a 0 guage ANL fuse holder for $15, a 100 amp ANL fuse for $3, a digital multimeter for $15, a high-leverage cable cutter for $15, and some marine battery terminals for $3 (the ones azn has). I couldn't find 0 guage ring terminals or a crimper for 0 guage. I also wasn't sure what size ANL fuse to get... the guy at the stereo shop said 100 amp, so I went with the flow. Let me know if I'm right. This is for the main 0 guage power wire going back to the distribution block. The 400.1 is fused 40A x 1 and the 700.5 is fused 30A x 3.

    I found 0 guage "4459 strands of tinned oxygen free copper" for $2.00 a foot plus shipping from elemental designs and "5145 strand copper clad aluminum" for $1.75 a foot plus shipping from knukonceptz. Which is better?

    I need to figure out how many feet to order to do the big three and power wire.

    Questions:

    1) Did I get the correct size ANL fuse?
    2) Should I just replace the old wiring altogether when I do the big three?
    3) At the one 0g in and two 4g out dist. block, what fuse type and sizes should I use?
    4) What guage speaker wire should I use for the components?
    5) What guage speaker wire should I use for the subwoofers?
    6) Should I go vent or round flared port tubes?
    7) I was thinking a chamber and port for each sub in the box, is this correct?
    8) I want as loud as possible but I want it to hit low... what should the cubic feet and Hz be for each chamber?
    9) Where can I get 0 guage ring terminals cheap?
    10) Where can I get a 0 guage crimper cheap?
    11) Where can I get convoluted tubing to cover the 0 guage cheap, and what size should it be?
    12) Are 0 guage and 1/0 guage the same?

    I know, I went crazy on the questions, but I figured I might as well get it all figured out at once.
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2007
    eazy, Mar 30, 2007
    #1143
  4. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Very good choice on the terminals.

    1. 0 gauge can carry quite a bit of current...max I'd go is like 250-300 amp fuse...best way to figure out is just crank your sh!t and see if it blows the fuse

    2. No need to replace old wiring...I only fully replace the battery ground to body wire...just run new wires for everything else and leave the factory wiring hooked up.

    3. 60 amp will do fine

    4. 16 gauge is all you need...12 gauge is overboard and only costs more and harder to run.

    5. 16 gauge will do the job...difference between 12 gauge to 16 gauge is like a 1 watt difference...unless you are pushing like 2000 watts.

    6. Port it however you want. If you want big port area than a slot vent is easier to bend and fit. I am really starting to like round ports though. There is no need in wasting money to buy flared ports. You can make your own with a router and a round hole. Like in these boxes.

    http://www.teamtoxicbass.com/~pete/car_audio/compvr_bass-reflex/index.html

    http://www.teamtoxicbass.com/~pete/car_audio/project_hellboy/index.html

    7. Running an amp per sub...I'd do separate chambers...unless you can get the output voltages exactly the same on each amp than a single chamber won't be any different...cept easier to get more port area with tuning

    8. Don't really know if you are going with two CVR's or not...you haven't really told us your final plans....last post you said one sub

    9. 0 gauge ring terminals...Go to any Lowe's or farm and tractor supply store...get some 0 gauge terminals.

    10. Crimper??? haha F U C K crimpers...I have a big heavy 12" solid steel rod...lay the wire and terminal on the ground and smash away...better connecting than some crimpers. And cost is free...if you have a hammer. But who doesn't have a hammer??

    11. Split loom tubing??? Try http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=080-526

    12. yes..0 gauge is what I call it...some call it "one ought". It goes on to 00; 2/0, 000;3/0 etc

    I would not get the CCA cable...cheap 0 gauge that will do the exact same job is some welding cable...from a welding supply store.

    Don't worry about going crazy on questions...I love to help
     
    aznboi3644, Mar 31, 2007
    #1144
  5. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Damn lol, thanks azn. Okay here's the plan as of right now.

    two kicker 05cvr12's
    one kicker 06zx400.1
    one kicker 06zx700.5
    one set of 5.25" CDT components


    -0 guage big three upgrade
    -0 guage power wire with ANL fuse from battery to trunk breaking into two 4 guage power wires at a fused distribution block with 4 guage amp grounds
    -two cvr12's in a 2 chamber ported box
    -400.1 powering 1 cvr12 400 watts at 2 ohms
    -700.5 powering 1 cvr12 420 watts at 2 ohms
    -5.25" cdt components in front doors with tweeters in pillars
    -700.5 powering components 70 watts x 2 at 4 ohms
    -last 2 channels of 700.5 unused for now
    -finish deadening trunk lid and front doors
    -build some sort of amp rack for the shelf
     
    eazy, Mar 31, 2007
    #1145
  6. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    I would rather have two of the SAME amps pushing each sub.

    Leave the back 6x9 holes empty and get a separate 2 or 4 channel amp for your highs
     
    aznboi3644, Mar 31, 2007
    #1146
  7. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    700.5 is $310
    400.1 is $175
    150.2 is $130
    350.4 is $175


    Wouldn't that just make it more difficult to run 3 amps?


    Oh and the mod on lowrider site was saying that I don't need to use a fused distribution block because the amps are fused?
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2007
    eazy, Mar 31, 2007
    #1147
  8. eazy

    eazy Full Member

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    Okay, so as of right now the new marine terminal won't work on my stock setup because the things on the ends of the wires aren't ring terminals. Should I just completely replace the stock wiring when I do the big three? Or should I put ring terminals on the stock wiring (which I have no idea what guage) and also do the big three?

    After looking at my stock setup, I easily found the battery negative to ground, and instead of my alternator positive going to battery positive... there's a wire going from alternator positive to a power distribution box full of fuses. The ring terminal attaches to the side of the box. On top of that ring terminal is another with a wire going to the battery positive. I haven't looked for the chassis to engine block yet.
     
    eazy, Mar 31, 2007
    #1148
  9. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    You have to cut the factory terminal off and crimp on some ring terminals...I use a vise-grip for that job.

    The Mod over on lowrider is a retard...the inline fuses are NOT meant to protect the amps...they are meant to protect the WIRE...tell him that he is a retard and should go suck on cock.

    On those marine terminals...I always take some sand paper and sand the inside edge...most of the time there is some paint on there and I sand the area at the base of the bolt
     
    aznboi3644, Mar 31, 2007
    #1149
  10. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Should my 3 new wires run the exact same path? For example from alt+ to power distribution fuse box to batt+?
     
    eazy, Mar 31, 2007
    #1150
  11. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    No...leave the block alone...just run a straight shot from alt to battery...make sure to keep the wire away from any hot parts and moving parts....double loom it to be safe
     
    aznboi3644, Apr 1, 2007
    #1151
  12. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Should I have the battery negative ground on a new spot?

    And for the engine block to chassis... should I have it attach to the same spot on the engine block and ground on a different spot?


    So CCA is bad wire?

    I'm looking at...


    Elemental Designs eNetic Silver 0 /1 Awg Power Cable (4459 strands of tinned oxygen free copper) $2.00/ft
    KLM Kable 1/0 Silver Pearl Power / Ground Cable (5145 strands of copper clad aluminum) $1.75/ft
    Kolossus Kable 1/0 Silver Power Wire (5145 strands of tinned oxygen free copper) $3.25/ft
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2007
    eazy, Apr 1, 2007
    #1152
  13. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Well I put my new battery posts on, cut the old terminals off the stock wires, cut the old ring terminal off the amp power wire, and put new copper terminals on all of them. My car starts so much faster now...

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    eazy, Apr 1, 2007
    #1153
  14. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    For the battery to block ground...I just found a non-essential bolt and used that...but made sure to sand it down to get all the dirt and grime off and get some clean metal.

    Another note....DITCH THOSE WING NUTS.

    Got get yourself some locking nuts...MUCH better connection and more solid
     
    aznboi3644, Apr 1, 2007
    #1154
  15. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Does it matter how long the 1/0 guage engine block to chassis wire is?
     
    eazy, Apr 1, 2007
    #1155
  16. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Not really...before I wired up a 0 gauge ground I had a 6 foot 4 gauge ground
     
    aznboi3644, Apr 1, 2007
    #1156
  17. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Haha okay I'm looking at 2-3 feet tops.

    Well I measured my trunk today. My max dimensions are 44" wide (due to swinging trunk lid arms), 17" tall (leaving 3/4"-1" of room above), and 25" deep (leaving about 2" of room in front).

    Would it be bad to have the box that tall? (Imagine box is 3" taller and 5" wider) Would it block airflow?

    [​IMG]
     
    eazy, Apr 1, 2007
    #1157
  18. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    that is roughly 8.9 cu ft to play with...you won't need that much.

    If you go too big with the box the sub may bottom out...but yes your new box will be big cuz we have room to play with :)

    So are you getting two 400.1s or a 400.1 and a 700.5??
     
    aznboi3644, Apr 1, 2007
    #1158
  19. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    lol yeah I know I don't need all that room. Those are my limits. I think I'm going to go with one 400.1 and one 700.5. It seems like the best deal and easiest to wire.

    Do you think I should go with 44" wide and 17" tall?
     
    eazy, Apr 1, 2007
    #1159
  20. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    You don't need that much room...I messed around with WinISD and a 5.5 cu ft enclosure tuned to 35Hz will be hella loud and still have excellent cone control.

    With 800 watts rms the sub doesn't go crazy until 28Hz and below...but you have a subsonic filter to help out...the response curve I like. This sh!t will be LOUD and LOW.

    And the best parts about it....you can have TWO 6 INCH ROUND ports approx 18 inches long in the middle one on top of each other...badass.

    My next project is trying to use a couple 6 inch or one 8 inch round ports for my Dub six
     
    aznboi3644, Apr 1, 2007
    #1160
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