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Kicker 750.1 amp...what kind of subs/box?

Discussion in 'Subwoofer Box and Custom Fabrication' started by eazy, Oct 8, 2006.

Page 35 of 75
  1. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    know what. i miss read that thread before.opps:lol:

    the voltage was 13.6somthing at the power terminals.it did dip .3 or so but never under 13V.

    so when reading the thread. my responce dont make sence.
     
    pedro quiroga, Dec 20, 2006
    #681
  2. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    yea....they do exactly what they are called...pawn YOU....f'n bastards
     
    aznboi3644, Dec 20, 2006
    #682
  3. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Lol pedro you are still confusing this....what was the average constant voltage at the speaker terminals!!!!! arghh
     
    aznboi3644, Dec 20, 2006
    #683
  4. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Okay...

    This is where my old amp was mounted (on the metal)...
    [​IMG]

    This is where the ground for the old amp was...under the backseat...
    [​IMG]

    This is the old ground...
    [​IMG]


    The ground wire was probably 3-4 feet long. Should I put the new ground near where the old one was? azn, I know you said I should use a bolt and nut...but I wouldn't be able to if I put the ground there.

    Do you guys think I should mount the amp on the seat-back metal again?

    Should I use 3 screws like the old mount?
     
    eazy, Dec 20, 2006
    #684
  5. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    General rule of thumb, ground wire no longer than 18 inches, If longer, use larger wire. The truss head self tapping screw will work, for a while. Sheet metal such as that on a car is not a good material to make threads in for screws! Thats why it needs to be bolted.
     
    TheViking, Dec 20, 2006
    #685
  6. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    So are you saying I should ground it on the same metal on the seat-back where I'm mounting the amp?... so I'd be able to use a nut and bolt and be under 18"
     
    eazy, Dec 20, 2006
    #686
  7. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Okay, here's the wiring configuration I'm using... dual 4 into a 2 ohm load...
    [​IMG]

    Does it matter which side of the 16 guage I use for + and - ?
    [​IMG]

    So do I just strip the wire like an inch when I put it through the holes?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    eazy, Dec 20, 2006
    #687
  8. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Okay I wired the sub. Does this look okay?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    eazy, Dec 20, 2006
    #688
  9. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    I just realized...

    I wanted to install everything today and have it running by tonight. But, I haven't put the wire through the hole in the box and siliconed it yet. I've drilled the hole, but haven't run the wire through. After siliconing it, do I have to wait 24 hours before I can get the sub going?

    When I was siliconing the seams it felt like the silicone dried after a couple of hours.


    Also, is there something I can cover the port with? I spray painted the inside, but the spray paint doesn't stick to the silicone I used to seal the box with...it just peels off.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2006
    eazy, Dec 20, 2006
    #689
  10. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    39.3volts.with the sine wave.
     
    pedro quiroga, Dec 20, 2006
    #690
  11. Willy D

    Willy D Full Member

    If it were me, I would cut off any wire that is not contained inside of the connector...On the insulated side, I would run the wire to where the insulation was just short of the terminal and I would cut off the stripped end of the wire sticking out of the terminal.....This is just me being picky...I am always afraid to leave any wire exposed that could touch or be touched by something it shouldn't and avoid a short....

    Willy
     
    Willy D, Dec 20, 2006
    #691
  12. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member




    Nope, dont reccomend that myself. The reason being is that the cross brace is usually press-welded to the chassis of the car, and those welds are not ideally suited for current transfer. Ground to a point of the car that is TRUELY part of the unibody or frame.
     
    TheViking, Dec 20, 2006
    #692
  13. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    like where? Where within 18" of that seat-back would I find metal suitable that I can bolt?
     
    eazy, Dec 20, 2006
    #693
  14. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Yes easy, your wiring looks correst in the pictures.

    and as Willy said, trim up the wires on the connectors, dont leave stray wires sticking out of ANY connection, thats a good way to have problems, and it looks more professional.
     
    TheViking, Dec 20, 2006
    #694
  15. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    under the carpet near the amp sounds like a spot i would use.
     
    pedro quiroga, Dec 20, 2006
    #695
  16. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    I'm just worried about the gas tank.
     
    eazy, Dec 20, 2006
    #696
  17. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member


    Maybe one of the strut towers, those are very solid. And if the ground wire is a little longer than 18 inches it will still work. Dont fret it too much. Also might look at grounding on the trunk floor. Wherever you do it, be sure to check the other side for factory wiring, brake lines, fuel tanks, hoses, etc.....
     
    TheViking, Dec 20, 2006
    #697
  18. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    I can't find metal that isn't like spot welded within 24" of the amp to ground it...and I can't change the location of the amp more than like 6" because that's where the old wiring is and I don't want to buy all new amp wiring.


    The old ground was like 30-36"
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2006
    eazy, Dec 20, 2006
    #698
  19. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    yeah the strut tower is also close.use that.its easyer than cutting some carpet
     
    pedro quiroga, Dec 20, 2006
    #699
  20. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    ok azn.when i have the amp off the ohms reads 2.1.

    with amp powered up and no music it jumps to 10 ohms.

    now when i play that 50hz tone the meter jumps from 183 to .04 and every were in between then back to 10 when there's no music.
     
    pedro quiroga, Dec 20, 2006
    #700
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