Kicker 750.1 amp...what kind of subs/box?

Discussion in 'Subwoofer Box and Custom Fabrication' started by eazy, Oct 8, 2006.

  1. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Just run a wire from the block to the frame, and a wire from the battery to the frame, along with a wire from the battery to the body...that will do, and it will only have 2 wires on the negative ofthe battery..........bigger the better here....
     
  2. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Good...because there are three factory wires that go to the battery and they are all in one loom...the alt, starter, and engine ground.

    I'm just gonna ground the battery to the body and frame and cut the factory ground at the end of the loom.

    One thing I noticed...I went and bought some ring terminals from the welding supply (Rural King) and got some 0/1 gauge terminals....they fit perfectly on my 0/1 gauge Tsunami wire...but I have some Q Power 0 gauge and they won't fit....so I have to use 0/2 gauge terminals....bastards...I had to make 2 trips
     
  3. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

  4. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

  5. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Okay, for the amp wires... I don't need anything on the end of the wires right? I just strip the coating off, plug them in and tighten down the screw-like things... The only reason I ask is I don't have a sautering iron if I were to need one.
     
  6. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    No SOLDERING is needed lol...just strip the ends and screw it down
     
  7. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

  8. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    lol, do I need to solder for the ground?
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2006
  9. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

  10. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Ok...Today I was looking under my truck for running new grounds and such and found four 12 gauge ground straps under the sides of the truck connecting the body to frame.

    I was like wow this sucks...they are actual braided wire straps lol...So I cut four 4 gauge wires and put ring terminals on the ends and I am going to replace them this weekend...I'm pretty sure this will help with my voltage dropping...Already did the battery to body ground with 0/1 gauge wire...goin to do the 0 gauge big boy from battery to frame this weekend also...I think I'm gonna go ground crazy lol

    Is there such thing as too many grounds....I mean I'm trying to upgrade a lotta of factory grounds...I've noticed so far that when my voltage drops it comes back up really fast...before when I knew nothing of the big three my voltage was dropping to battery level and had a very hard time getting back up...but now it drops and jumps right back up.

    Another update is that I found and decided on what battery to install in the back...went to AutoZone and looked at some Duralasts...gonna install the biggest fuccking red top they have...1000CA and 850 CCA...reserve capacity is like 155 I think.

    Question...what is the difference between reserve capacity and amp/hour rating...I've heard that they are the same but the reserve capacity is so much higher than the amp/hour rating
     
  11. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    The Sub Came!!!
     
  12. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Now I need 4 gauge for the ground... the old ground terminal is still attached to the sheet metal under my backseat, should I use it?

    My mom said her friend the carpenter is coming back into town today, I'm going to see if he'll let me use his jigsaw tomorrow.

    Oh yeah...
    [​IMG]
    How should I center the sub? Center it in the blue or red?
     
  13. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Well I went to a stereo place and had them cut the hole for $15...centered in the blue. I also got 8.5 feet of 4 gauge wire for $5 and another terminal thing for free (for the ground).

    How long should the screws be for the sub?
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2006
  14. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    I would have cut the hole about 4 inches from the opposite end of the port
     
  15. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    15 bucks to cut a hole.little pricey for a 5min jod.
     
  16. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    15 bucks for a hole aint bad really, my minimum shop charge for ANYTHING was 10 bucks..........back about 12 years ago............you did OK easy. I pulled out many a ford radios using my ford radio keys back in the day......10 bucks a pop........Unless they bought the radio from us, thenI only charged 5 bucks.........

    If i have to take my time to do something for YOU, YOU will pay me for it......Because i have the knowledge, the know how and the investment in tools......... YOU dont.
     
  17. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Okay, all I have left to do is... caulk the rest of the interior, wire my amp up, wire the sub up, carpet the box, and drop the sub in.

    [​IMG]
    My friend adding the finishing touches.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Damn did you screw all those in by hand??? **** I've done one panel like that and my forearms were killin


    Also a trick to easily paint a port/vent is to take a shop vac and place the hose inside the box inside the vent and spray paint from the outside about 6 inches away from the vent...the shop vac will pull the pain through the port and evenly coat it
     
  19. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member



    You just need to spank the monkey a little more like the rst of us and you wont have a probblem !!!!!!!!!
     
  20. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Easy that is a damn nice helmholtz resonator enclosure you got there