Kicker 750.1 amp...what kind of subs/box?

Ahh well I was just asking because I've heard and read this many a times....but oh well...its the roll off point fuk it haha

 

bass is bass...30Hz is a good F3 for rap...if you like rock and such that doesn't have heavy low bass than you can tune it higher

rock has a lotta the bass around the 80Hz range...rap is around 40 but hell doesn't really matter if you have a nice box...it'll sound good with all music

 

Yes and no!!!!!!!! This can get confusing......

the -3dB point of the box IN the car will be different from the measurements taken OUT of the car....This is called transfer function of the vehicle, or its in car acoustics. yes the box itself will have a -3dB downpoint of such and such, but in the car, the whole bowl of banans changes!!!!!!! When you tune a box to a particular frequency say 30Hz, that does not mean that its -3dB downpoint....Just so we dont get to overanylitical here, lets just say that if you like rap, like rock, like pretty much all kinds of music, 35 Hz is a good frequency to tune an enclosure to......If you tune it to say 30 Hz or 40Hz, will you notice a HUGE difference in the way it sounds???? NO.......I am a critical listener and get picky with the way things sound, But with 99% of the rest of the folks out there, just get it darned close to what your target frequency is and you will be happy...

 

No...Tuning affects F3 though

In WinISD the F3 is where the response curve crosses the purple line.

Notice that if you enter your sub into the recommended deep bass enclosure the response is real peaky and has a higher F3...If you lower the tuning it brings that peak down and smoothes out the curve

 

It is a good idea to brace the box...mainly the large sides of the box are more likely to flex and cause unwanted vibration that equals wasted sound.

The location of the port doesn't matter...ideally you want the port on the same plane as the woofers...meaning the baffle board.

A rectangular port is easy to build and will make the enclosure even stronger. If you are going to put a divider to brace the box either cut out a lot of circular holes but leave enough MDF to be sturdy to cut out 4 squares as in a 4 square game lol...but leave the width of the mdf atleast 2 inches.

Mess around with the rectangular ports vs. circular ports on WinISD.

Or you could just build either of the boxes that I told you lol

 

Put the port on the same radiating surface of the woofers, in between would be fine. Internal bracing is key in stopping resonance in the box. Run some peices of wood from front to back and top to bottom to elimainate flex, could also do a souble baffle, 2 sheets of wood instead of one on the woofer/port peice of wood........... dont use coors light cans for the ports, that will make Ranger SVO mad!!!!!!!!


I recently got a few box programs, just need some numbers now, then i could give a better idea of what to tune your box too for the type of music and the type of vehicle you drive....it will be a bit though!!!!!

 

OH BOY!!!!!!!!!!!!! that trunk is a PRIME candidate for an VIKING patented extended infinite baffle!!!!!!!!!!

4 12 inchers or 2 15 inchers!!!!!!!!!!! Hell YA!!!!!!! Low frequency extension would be AWESOME, the bass would hit FAST and TIGHT!!!!!!!


But I aint even gunna TRY to explain it here!!!!!!!

 

Nope.............

 

then you DONT wanna do what i was talking about!!!!!!!


But that amp can run whatever you want, whether its 1 8 incher, or 8 18 inchers.....yes it is true........

 

If the amp putts out 500 watts for example, thats what it puts out, end of story......as long as the amp see's an impedance it can live with, it will work.....Just means instead of 1 woofer getting 500 watts, 8 18 inch woofers get 62.5 watts each......that simple.


by the way, is your refresh button worn out yet???????? LOL!!!!

 

Personally I don't like sealed boxes...especially ones that are prefabbed...I'll make my own but never buy another prefab one...for the price you pay you can build one that is 100 times stronger and better