If I can seel some stuff what do you guys think about this setup: 2 - 3.5 ks350s up front (ordered) 2 - ks680s in rear (currently have audiopipe) 1 - either 15" Comp VX or 15" Solobaric L7 Sub Amp - Power Acoustic BAMF-2000/1D (or maybe the next step which is the 4000?) Comp Amp - one mentioned earlier? I can use the 6x8s that i already have and could get either of those subs and amp for $450, then wiring and box (which I have all materials to build, just need the MDF).
the PA should be more than enough power for the 1 15. still planning on mounting the 3.5's in the middle of the dash?
the 3.5's fit perfect in that spot by the defroster ducts... but the imaging is a little whacked. the 6x8's might be louder. but the dash speakers help.
I'm sure I could cut it. As for the openening I'm not real sure, i've had the panels off before but never noticed. How do you go about adding speakers if you are already taking up all 4 channels from the radio? Im a newb still
if both the front speakers are 4 ohm then you can wire them in parallel for a 2 ohm stereo load. that 2 speakers per front left and right channels. i have 8 speakers wired to 4 channels on my 4 ch amp.
edit on my own post. MAKE THAT 10 SPEAKERS ON 4 CHANNELS. just added some tweets in the dash. just to raise the sound stage a lil,and it worked. if i did the math right ch's 1-2 are @ 2ohms. which is good for 175 under rated watts. closer to 225ish. so each speaker gets roughly 43~56 watts each. thats 2 tweets and 2 mids. ch's 3-4 are 100~150 to my midbass.
yes...yes i do. lol. when CC comes to tampa ima demo it for him. hopefully it sounds as good to him as it does to me.:huh:
Ok so my friends and I have been having a discussion for the past couple of days. They say I should make some kind of box for the 3.5s, but I don't think it would really have a noticeable effect. What do you say?
not too sure. id cross them over fairly high. 300 hz and up or a lil more. i had my 4"s crossed over @ 600hz and up 12 db pre octive. that helped em handle the extra power i was sending them. now i have em on a 300 hz cap.(i know) but they share the same channel as my mtx 6.5 mid. and they are set to 150~200 hz. not too sure since there is no indication on the crossover on the amp. either way they dont play much below 200 hz. just mids and the 4's are upper mids and the tweets take over the rest. also the polk mid bass's are band passed from 70ish to 150~200. again just going by ear on these settings. so you can say i have a 3 way system up front. what was a talking about again? lol. not sure if it'll make a diff unless you want them to play a lil bit of mid bass. it would help a lot if you could add another set of speakers upfront somewhere to fill in what they cant physically play.
Would this be everything I need (besides stuff for box)? https://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/cart.aspx
the only things i can suggest are a component amp that matches, i just really have to have them match http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17744_Power+Acoustik+BAMF-1200-4.html and a wire kit thats cheaper http://knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KLM-K4 you may want either 2 of those kits or a 1/0 kit.
Ok so basically ideas have changed , imagine that, but I want to get this right. I NEED a spare tire so that's going to take half the trunk leaving me with 17 x 19 x 14 to play with a box, meaning it will have to be a single sub 10, 12, maybe 15. Trying to keep it under $200 I think I have narrowed it down to 5. Alpine SWR-1242D Kicker 08S12L54 RF P3D415 (may be able to get from friend fairly cheap) Orion HCCA 10.4 MTX TS5512-44 (more expensive than kicker, but opinions) eD 11Ov.2 (sale !!) I'm looking for a good overall sub, doesn't have to blow windows, but have smooth, beating bass. Of those ^ which would be best or is there one I am overlooking?