4 Fi Audio IB3 18's walled off 15Hz tune in a VAN BUILD LOG

Discussion in 'Subwoofer Box and Custom Fabrication' started by kryptonitewhite, Feb 28, 2010.

  1. jonnyv713

    jonnyv713 The Young Gun of CAT

    I might do a full wall inn something else. i have been kinda looking for a really cheap SUV.
     
  2. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    thanks very much! Im very pleased with it!


    its just too hard to mix a race car and a system isnt it
     
  3. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

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    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dyvov4SpY4I

    I PayPaled bassotronics for the high quality Make It Drop.. Thanks to Graham! So I'm burning that and DB-Audio's 20Hz-30Hz..those vids to come!

    I busted my motor mount and tranny I think though...low on gas money.. so things may slow down a bit here!
     
  4. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    I can't get the bass will destroy you, DB-Audios 20-30, or make it drop to work. Some CDs I burned it says unsupported on those tracks then skips to others that work, some discs I burnt say data error so the whole disc wont play. All are MP3
     
  5. jonnyv713

    jonnyv713 The Young Gun of CAT

    I don't know anything about that stuff. Sorry man
     
  6. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    ive had that happen to me too, i just put them on my ipod and they work.
     
  7. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    ya i keep getting told flash drive, it has usb
     
  8. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    I am a firm believer in overpowering drivers. I think more drivers are killed from clipping and distortion than from overpowering cleanly. Obviousely, as I am running IB3 18's off 3000 watt amps, though obviousely I'm not giving them 3000 watts. I've been repeatedly told that both the Maelstrom-X 18 and the 06' XXX 18 will take 3000 RMS all day long. So most people would think my 4 AP30001Ds would still be over kill when I upgrade to either driver.

    However I don't want to push the AP30001Ds hard, I would really like to get 2 more HO alts from Iraggi, 4 more AP30001Ds, and 2 more AGM batteries. However, I don't think my van could handle it. She doesn't flex a whole lot on the outside, but I can see and hear so much stress already from the IB3's. IDK if I could squeeze all that into her, and, thats a lot more $$$ were talking.

    So if I went crazy and got 06' XXX's... should I just get dual 4 ohm and run each one off of an AP30001D? Or should I try to get 4 more and run 1 AP per 2 ohm coil?
     
  9. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    I need to check the front AC door flaps? How do I do that?!


    tranny is OK, had it flushed. No broken mounts, but the bushings are getting worn, rear leaf springs getting saggy, need re-arched, he said I'm ok for a while..nothing imminent.

    But.. my AC compressor and blower:

    I was told to disconnect my compressor when I got the van, but I shouldnt have. Now the berring/clutch is rusted and complaining. Dude said just let it go. When it goes it goes. I bought a recharge kit with oil, didn't help. It's full charged..but not cold in front, not blowing in front, but rear is freezing and blows like a tornado. So I need to check the doors/flaps under the dash?
     
  10. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    so I pulled the dash apart, tried one of the blend door actuators, that didnt do it, checked the 4 air tubes that control them all, none of them suck or blow...but in the process I pulled out the duct that runs down to the floor and back to the arm rest, now it blows on my HU... awesome, cuz my HU used to get hot as hell...now she stays cool. So blessing in disguise, I'm going to leave the vents stuck on floor/defrost... cuz then it stays hot in the cabin and the girls want the windows down. We cant have themj up and not blare. Plus, with them up, it KILLS the subs...they go quiet. So i'll leave it stuck, it will keep the deck cool, floor cool.

    So now I need to customize duct work to blow cold air from the rear ac into the enclosure. What I was originally planning was to have cold blow in on 1 side and suck hot out to the return on the other side... this should help keep equal pressure so when the subs pressurize the enclosure, then depressurize, several times per second, hopefully it doesnt affect the blower fan too much. Howerver, I wonder if the return side will have trouble, being the longer hose...having to come back across the vehicle. I wonder if a lot of the pressure will go out the front port. So then I wonder, should I not cover the return and run a hose... let it just suck from the rear area...will it draw enough air from outsid through the door and window cracks? Or should I cut a hole in the floor and suck air from outside and force that through the box out the port? Then when the subs pressurize though, it may fight the fan.


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    replaced the vurnt out toggle

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    under dash, blows right on the HU!

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  11. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    with the completion and success of the curved sealed box for the mx21 give away... I am pouting, trying to figure out a way to modify my van and two towers to accomodate 21's. But the van is bullet proof. If a nuke went off in my van, if anything survived, it would be the wall. If only I could have gotten that price offering back in feb/march!



    Any ideas? I don't think it's feasable. I know how I could have made 4 fit in the van from scratch, but I just cant see making them go now.



    http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1238601&page=17
     
  12. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    my wall is 56" wide x 47" tall

    I could have made 2"x6" framing and 2 walls, each housing two 21"MXs...rather a 10" wide by 47" tall slot port down the center of a 56"x47" wall

    I got offered a KILLER price on 6 21" Maelstrom-X's that would make me scrap 6 RE Audio 06' XXX 18's instantly, if I were able to put them in my wall. Why couldnt I have gottwn that offer back before I started my build and I was negotiating???

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  13. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    dang.. thats a tuffy. you made the front baffle SO thick it would suck balls to try and tear it apart.

    (few minutes of thinking).........you would have to tear out the front baffle and start anew. :(
     
  14. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    ima stick with 18's, I started the rear wall where I originally inteded to do it. I'll cut between the 2"x6"s on the temp-rear wall and turn that into bracing when this is done, so now I'll be around 80-90cubic feet, 15-18Hz tuning when I'm done

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  15. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

  16. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    window flex doesnt show up on my camera, sheet metal flex, my mirror..it sucks and ****es me off... but I had this trailor flexing over 30 feet away and this whole gas station, people inside got ****ed off

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3qOy-BjVZE
     
  17. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

  18. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    buildin a box for 2 18" Fi Audio Q's for a guy. 10 cubes, 12" port 17" long, 35Hz tune.

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    my woman

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