Viking Audio

Try and keep the ports on the same side as the subwoofer, otherwise i would have designed it different with longer ports. The idea is that if the ports are on the same side as the subs then the air inside the box can equalize with the air outside the box and with the air that the sub is pushing from the front. Lol sorry i have a hard time explaining sometimes on here.

 

ok, i sold my computer so i could buy an amp lol. So i might grab this tonight online if no one has anything bad to say about it. I can run it at 4 ohms and it will be perfect i think, also if i get another stroker in the future i can drop the amp to 1 ohm.

POWER ACOUSTIK PS1-5500D

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Power series class D monoblock car-amplifier

RMS Power Rating:
4 Ohms: 1700 Watts x 1 Channel
2 Ohms: 2500 Watts x 1 Channel
1 Ohms: 3200 Watts x 1 Channel
Max power output: 5500 watts x 1 channel
Full regulated PWM MOSFET power supply
Wired remote bass level control included
LED power and protection indicators
Tuned Bass EQ (0-18 dB bass boost at 45 Hz)
Hi Speed Digital Circuitry
Preamp RCA outputs
4-Way Protection circuitry
Platinum-plated RCA level inputs
Platinum-plated screw terminals
Variable low-pass filter (50-150 Hz)
Subsonic Filter (15-40 Hz)
Frequency response: 15-150 Hz
Dimensions: 18"L x 11.4"W x 2.4"H
1 Year Manufacturer Warranty

 

sweet, ya i'm liking this amps specs, maybe i'll get a second one in the future for my second stroker if i get one and run them both at 4 ohms. I gotta move some money around but i will have it by the end of the month for sure, hopefully next week.

 

......................... Brand New Power Acoustik Power Series Ps1-5500d 5,500 Watt Mono-block Car Audio Amplifier With Built In Crossovers And Advanced Features
**3,200 Watts Rms Rated**..........

 

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ya, probably pick that one up for cheap but i'm finished buying used stuff, never know what it's been through. I bought it new anyways might have it next week.

 

I don't know lol, i guess it depends how good you can build it. Use wood glue and glue each piece, drywall screws, 1/64 drill bit and put screws every 4 inches or so and i don't think you will need any. I didn't brace mine, it turned out pretty solid. Countersink the screw holes too if you can with a drill bit a bit bigger than the screw heads.

 

It's officially mine, all mine....Can't wait

 

Thanks lol, i think this setup will be ok finally, at 4 ohms it should run cooler and be easier on everything. I noticed my car is running a little rough lately but a weird thing is happening now, when i'm driving a good speed then have to slow down real fast the engine kind of dies out for a second and my 200 watt amp cuts off for a second. Grrr, there is some heavy power surges going on with my car i think and maybe has been like that for a long time but not as bad. It has to be a big surge or lack of power for a second or two because i'm only running a 200 watt amp and it has it's own battery in the back. Probably not good for an amplifier in this situation.............