What do you recomend?

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by Steven Kephart, Sep 13, 2003.

  1. Steven Kephart

    Steven Kephart Full Member

    I'm still somewhat undecided on what I want to do with my front stage. I am extrememly happy with the Koda's, so I will definitely keep them. The 4000X processor gives me a great deal of flexibility over my speakers, and I'm thinking about taking advantage of this.

    Right now my Koda mids are in the stock location, with the tweeters wire tied to the grills covering the mids. I played with my processor a little bit and set the delay on the (well that's odd :huh: ) right side to 15.5 inches. I have been very happy with the soundstage I get from this. In fact when Dan Wiggins was down here, he mentioned that it was the best soundstage he has heard in a car ( :blush: ). Of course the night before he mentioned that frequency response accounts for 90% of your soundstage (or was that imaging?). So my guess is that the Koda's are providing a very good frequency response in this location (so he's responsible for my soundstage B) ). I was planning on building kickpannels, but now I'm thinking of building the speakers into my doors. After all the Koda's were designed for off axis response. Plus I will have the advantage of keeping them IB, and not losing any midbass.

    Do you guys think I should bi-amp my Koda's? My processor has 4 sets of outputs, which I am now only utilizing 2 sets of them. I figure the advantage of bi-amping is that I can delay my mids and tweeters different if needed. I thought about also dropping the Koda crossovers and just using the digital crossover in the 4000X as well. Although it does have some impressively steep slopes (up to 72 dB per octave), it provides very few crossover points.

    So do you guys think I should bi-amp them? Do you think I should put them in kickpannels, or build them into the doors? I'm planning on going crazy with the door pannels anyway.
     
  2. luvdeftonz

    luvdeftonz Full Member

    If they were designed to play off axis, why fix what isn't broken? I would keep them in the doors. Bi-amping is a nice option, however. If you have the right testing equipment (or maybe some golden ears ;) ) setting them up just right might not be that tough. Having complete control of the output of every driver in your system is a definite plus, especially for a "tweaker" like you. I say bi-amp, and make the sickest door panels in the history of man!

    BTW, check out the thread over on si.n. One of the dudes is thinking about making these washer/gasket thing-uh-muh-jigs to make mounting the Koda midbass a cinch. I have a feeling it will look very nice, too. Just throwin' that out there B)

    $.02
    :)
     
  3. Honest Bob

    Honest Bob Full Member

    I've never heard of SIN but I'd like to get a peak at these washer things your talking about .Got a link to the forum?
     
  4. Steven Kephart

    Steven Kephart Full Member

    Yeah, I saw that thread and responded. As you can see from my response, I really don't need those rings. I think people are making a bigger deal out of it than it really is. I have not seen ANY problems with the Koda's. In fact I'm looking at one of my mids right now that I have had since they first came out (November or December?). Apparently there were only a couple cases of a true problem. Others just tightened their screws too tight and caused the issues themselves. But even still Adire has taken appropriate steps and has fixed the problem. All new woofers are (and have been for a short while) being shipped with some new, stronger glue. But even still people shouldn't tighten them down too much either. As Dan has said, it should just be snug.
     
  5. sandt38

    sandt38 Full Member

    I'm wanting the tweeters off axis. The ring domes provide such a beautiful broad off-axis responce I don't understand why you would hinder their natural ability in any way. On axis is totally harsh, and the only way to controll it in a kick type setting is through overuse of electronics.

    My personal preferance is all in the install. I am not a fan of overuse of electronics to produce accurate broad soundstages and imaging. In fact, I use almost no processing in my install (a 1Db peak at 10KHz with a broad rolloff for 1Db ;) ).

    Install it correctly and there is no need for all the gizmos... Plus, it sounds better that way. I just dont like false rolloffs. They just sound harsh, mechanical... canned maybe. A broad Q-factor and swooping, miniscule EQing is OK, but when one goes too far, I get turned off.
     
  6. luvdeftonz

    luvdeftonz Full Member

    Steven, I just mentioned it as a cosmetic enhancement if the mids were openly mounted (say, on your new door panel). It would be a sort of accent to the mids flange. There weren't any implications regarding your ability to mount the mid w/o screwing it up like a few others have (how hard can it be to fasten a screw :p ). It was merely a cosmetic recommendation since it looks like you're going for a flashy install.

    I don't have a problem with external processing, though. A car's accoustics suck, and unless you willing to redo/rebuild the interior of your car so you have better sound, external processing is the easiest way to remedy the problem. I've yet to find a speaker, regardless of physical installation, that is completely flat throughout it's intended frequency response range (and at various listening levels...). Even if it was, "flat" music sounds like crap :puke:

    :)
     
  7. flawlesskid

    flawlesskid Full Member

    Hey steven, bi-amping was the best thing i've done for my setup. My mids came alive with the dedicated power, and i love having indepedant control over each speaker set (xover, time correction, eqing, and etc). Now with my hew HU, i've gained even more control, and kicked out the passive crosses all together. being able to change the crossover points and slopes between tweeter and mid is a definate plus considering i was using passives that cross at 2.5K and my mids dont do so well above about 2K, if that. Capabilities came to life by biamping. Take advantage of a lot of different processing features (yea yea seth, install over processing.. :starwars: ) whether you're using a 3-way active cross, DSP, epicenter, or a HU with a bunch of processing capabilities. Just enables a whole bunch of toying around with settings...
     
  8. Steven Kephart

    Steven Kephart Full Member

    Of course my first priority is to install them as best as possible. Kick pannel placement evens out the differences and would be more than ideal for the install, except for what you mention above about their exceptional off axis design. I haven't really played with the mids outside the factory location. But although they are supposed to work well in .2 cubes sealed, I have heard they work better IB. That's why I brought up this thread, to see if people think that it would be better to even out the pathlength differences and mount them more on axis, or keep them in the doors, and maybe overcome any problems with processing.

    But I also have the processing power available to fix any minor problems, much more precise than any other processor on the market (AFAIK). Another benifit is that Dan said he would use his high dollar test equipment at Adire to help tune it right. So my guess is that no matter what it will be done right, but which setup would be closest to ideal install to allow the processing to take over? And BTW, the processing is all digital, so the only change to the signal will be what I want it to be. No distortions, phase issues, etc. will be added.

    So that brings about my next question. I still need to decide if I want to use the Koda crossovers or not. This will determine if I want to install the crossovers on my door pannels or not. I will definitely run the mid full range, with no crossover on it unless it REALLY needs it. But Dan has assured me that the mid works great with no high-pass OR low-pass crossover. This means that only the tweeter will use the crossover if I include it.

    So you might want to know what I have available. Everything about the 4000X is amazingly precise, except for the crossover points. So you understand why I might still use the passive crossover. The processor precisely controls the output of each channel +6 -12 dB in .5 dB incriments. I have 10 parametric EQ bands per side set in 1/18 octave steps, +/-12 dB in .1 dB incriments and Q's from .1 to 25.5 in .1 incriments. The crossover for the tweeter can be set for 24 or 72 dB per octave high pass and has the options of 6.34 kHz, 5.03 kHz, and 4 kHz (like I said, very limited). With such limited crossover point possibilities, but precise controls elsewhere, do you think I could drop the passive crossovers?

    If it would help for you guys to play with the Sony DSC software for the processor, you can download it here.
     
  9. Steven Kephart

    Steven Kephart Full Member

    Yeah, I understood what you meant, and appreciate the heads up.
     
  10. Steven Kephart

    Steven Kephart Full Member

    Thanks flawless. That helped out a great deal. Then I will definitely bi-amp. I was just worried that it wouldn't be worth the added cost (4 channel amp instead of 2 channel).
     
  11. trifle

    trifle Full Member

    apparently jlaine knows some stuff about the kodas with all of his success...so on your way over to SIN...yeah...