Well I hacked up the old box for my e15a's and stuck one RE 18" HC in their place 11 cubes tuned to 40 hz ... got the RE 35.1 recently and man it sucks some juice I was tuning and you could just watch the SPL drop cause I was losing voltage so bad Oh well ... theres other stuff I can do ... I also found out that the 18 is too good for 8 regular sized screws .. It bent the heads on them all and jumped right out of the box when i first got it in haha ... the sub is a beast and it didn't even phase it, kinda funny to see it hop right out on some test tones I got a few pictures of the 18's making some other subs look like little girls http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/johne5ive/ls...Friends&.view=l Included in there is a picture of why UPS men are all homos and like other men The sub survived and got reconed ... doing really well right now so its all good I dont have any pictures of the sub in the box, but if you wanna see the old setup with the e15a's I can upload a few pictures of that wall Anyways ... I'm just talking .. Let me know if you got any suggestions ... 148.1 is kinda loud already though hehe
What class and what are the regulations? I assume super street if you are running a wall. How many batteries, and what type, and what size alt? Power and ground upgrades I hope as well...
I know you'll hate to hear it, but no upgrades ... I'm getting a new car soon and dont care to put any money into it ... saving it all for the next install its a 92 accord ... so it has a sissy electrical system, 80 amp alternator i think whats going to make the strongest improvement besides an alternator?
Isolator/second battery. Both are completely transferable to the new car. If you are planning on competeing, get them.
add another batt...that will help the voltage drop. you dont need the isolator. upgrade your battery ground and alt wires. if you are looking for pure spl... you may want to tune higher. what size port? is it in a wall? also if you were at a competition you should only be doing burps... this will help conserve some battery.
wooo hooo ... i got a free deep cycle marine battery last night sandt .. whats the benefits of the isolator and what happens if dont use it
First off, if you have a starter battery and a DC battery, you need to use one. Second, the isolator isolates the batteries draw, and charge. When your rear battery needs a charge, the isolator charges only the rear, proportional to it's request. Same with the front. This reduces overcharge eliminating battery explosion possibilities (very minor chance, but it is still there), and prolonging the life of the battery. When you hit a 20Hz note and the 3000 watts you are running pulls down voltage you do 2 things. by seperating the front and rear battery, you maintain a 12 volt source to the alt (from the other battery) allowing it to produce proper current. If you rob it of input voltage it will make less current. Also, by leaving the front battery at full charge (remember, the isolator seperates the load) you eliminate light dimming, AC dropout and engine stumble just to name a few. Besides, they look cool