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Viking Project on the cheap

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by TheViking, Oct 3, 2010.

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  1. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Ok kids...lets have a class here....


    this involves everyone on this site..

    I have a 2000 dakota 4x4 4 door....It needs a system...BAD

    There is no room behind the rear seats except for maybe about about 1.2 - 1 7 cubic feet of volume for a box. We have kids so the seats have to stay. The LIL lady wants bass....and the stuff that makes her wet from the vibes....

    I want to use ONE amp...a 2 channel tri mode with passives...(my favorite way of doing things)

    And it has to be done CHEAP.. I am OK with the stock head unit for now and a LOC....

    So I want ideas, thoughts and suggestions for this project...

    With all your folks input I will derive a final conclusion on what to get and how to do it...( I have a good idea of what to do but I want input from other sources such as you out there)

    Lets make a pounding system on the cheap !!!
     
    TheViking, Oct 3, 2010
    #1
  2. Fbmowner

    Fbmowner Full Member

    How many subs are ya lookin to have?
     
    Fbmowner, Oct 3, 2010
    #2
  3. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Sub wise....whatever works. With the amount of room behind the rear seats, I am figuring 6 or 7 inchers...at the largest. MAYBE....4 but 2 in the right box will probably do better....The box size will not allow for a sub larger than 7 inches at best guess...and a 6 incher would be the best plan here... I have done 6 inch subs years ago and had good results..

    Keep the idea coming.....I even have a center console that could be remade into a box......LOL!
     
    TheViking, Oct 3, 2010
    #3
  4. Fbmowner

    Fbmowner Full Member

    haha. Id go with a bunch of awesome 6inch subs in a tiny sealed box thatll tickle the G strings in the back seats while your rockin out to some Thorogood

    -P.S + a square style sub fiberglass fit to the center console!..
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2010
    Fbmowner, Oct 3, 2010
    #4
  5. ericj

    ericj Full Member

    How about a box in the bed with a blow-through from the bed into the cabin? :D

    I want to try this when I get a truck.
     
    ericj, Oct 3, 2010
    #5
  6. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Use the same sub I use in the Yaris. An Earthquake SWS 10 has a mounting depth less than 2-3/4-inches. So it should fit behind most seats.

    Your volume of 1.5 will work will with a 10-inch woofer and a 3-inch port. According to Earthquake this woofer will work in a ported enclosure as small as 0.8 to 1 cu ft. Fire the woofer toward the back wall instead of the back of the seat. Trust me, it will rock. The SWS-10 has an RMS Rating of 200-watts so an amp with a rating of 300 to 400-watts RMS will work just fine.

    This woofer will not model well using our software, ask me about how to tune the port.
     

    Attached Files:

    Ranger SVO, Oct 3, 2010
    #6
  7. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member



    done that...about 9 or 10 times.... a proper single relfex will tear your face off... but we need to keep the truck intact...no major mods such as that !
     
    TheViking, Oct 3, 2010
    #7
  8. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member


    outstanding idea...

    we need to talk about this more.....will PM you later...


    But dont forget everyone..I need an amp, and some highs..and maybe even some upgrades to the electrical system... I want ideas and thoughts on it all...
     
    TheViking, Oct 3, 2010
    #8
  9. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Last edited: Oct 3, 2010
    Ranger SVO, Oct 3, 2010
    #9
  10. monster71

    monster71 Full Member

    monster71, Oct 5, 2010
    #10
  11. jonnyv713

    jonnyv713 The Young Gun of CAT

    jonnyv713, Oct 5, 2010
    #11
  12. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    thanks guys...keep the ideas coming...


    Monster...Never heard of them before, my only concern with those drivers is the extremly low sensitivity. otherwise look like a great long excusion sub...

    And johnny...I have dealt with elemantal designs before, the last car audio company i worked for ...we sold them, I remember them quite well now, they were a quality driver and had sound quality that surpassed many other high end speakers of the time, such as ADS, Oz Audio and Orion.

    I need to get my butt to a local shop such as best buy or some other independant company and listen to what is out there. I let my ear be the final judge in highs!

    But again, thanks for the advice and ideas...keep them coming, this aint gunna happen overnight, and when it gets going I will take pics and do a full documentation of the install.
     
    TheViking, Oct 6, 2010
    #12
  13. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    I'm not sure if I would look at component speakers. You said you plan on staying with the stock head unit for now, the stock HU could not drive a set of components effectively, so any sound improvement would be minimal at best. So lets concentrate on improving what you have right now. Lets use the same approach I used for my wifes Yaris.

    Stock speakers have no low end and they also lack in the upper frequency range. So lets fix the upper frequency range first and fix any imaging problems while we're at it. Select a set of add on tweeters with a crossover point around 4500Hz and an 18dB slope. Be careful, many manufactures advertise a lower crossover point than whats true. An example would be my Polk Audio DX3000, Polk advertised a 4800dB crossover point. In reality it was closer to 6000dB (industry norm). Thats why I built my own crossover and WHAT a difference. Night and day. You have no idea how much difference a good crossover will make.

    We need the lower point to pull the sound up, we also need the odd order filter so that the tweeter is out of phase and less directional.

    Then we work on the woofer.

    My 10-cents
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2010
    Ranger SVO, Oct 7, 2010
    #13
  14. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    If you wanna know how to build your own crossover, let me know.

    One of my boards

    [​IMG]
     
    Ranger SVO, Oct 9, 2010
    #14
  15. TE5LA

    TE5LA Guest

    Looks like iron core coils. Air core are better but more expensive and larger. Non-polar caps would be better than bipolar too.

    Is that a 12dB 2-way?
     
    TE5LA, Oct 11, 2010
    #15
  16. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Also, Iron cores should be mounted perpendicular to each other.

    Its a 24dB crossover set at 5800Hz. It was one of three built for my truck. The one that won was an 18dB crossover set at 5000Hz.
    This was one of my early crossovers, but it works well and its still in my truck

    [​IMG]

    The original Polk Audio crossover, its in a box in my utility room

    This is one of my latest crossovers. I've learn alot in 10-years. Its super smooth and sounds good no matter what tweeters are hooked to it. I put it in my wifes Yaris.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Sorry Viking, we stole your thread, can we make it up to you?:rolleyes:
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2010
    Ranger SVO, Oct 11, 2010
    #16
  17. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Nice to see some more ideas!
    First off, the stock head unit will not be running anything other than sending a signal to the amp. What I will do use use an amp "tri mode". Its one of the best ways to do a system in my opinion. So as far as highs go, its a matter of getting a decent set...me and the lil lady were gunna go to a shop and have a listen to a few component sets last weekend but other things came up...

    I agree with the x-overs....Its nice to see others on here that seem to know what they are doing when it comes to passives....It was always one of my strong points back in the day. Once I determine the set of components up front and location of tweeters I will have a better idea of what I want. But realistically, the tweets will go into the factory locations as provided.....I wanna keep this simple for now! LOL!

    As for non/bi-polar caps, dont make make much of a difference...either way, using a bypass cap in parallel with the low end caps does audibly help. And for coils, I would probably use iron cores at this point due to the increased power handling and saturation levels before field collapse.......due to the fact that as for an amp, we are looking into using my OLD Orion 2125sx to run this system....possibly. It needs sent off for repair.....

    I still need to get with you Ranger on this sub and enclosure.... Whats your thoughts on this? I am leaning towards a few 8 or 6 inchers, in a vented box of course, but am still wide open to ideas...Need it to pound hard....especially with the newer music she listens too.. musical accuraccy in the lower registers is not of prime concern, but nothing too out of charactor!
     
    TheViking, Oct 11, 2010
    #17
  18. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    But the stock HU is sending a signal to an amp.

    Anyway, I did some Preliminary Work on the box, but its in my classroom. Before I get carried away, Do I have 7-inches at the bottom, 4-inches at the top and can it be atleast 12-inches tall. I would like 14-inches tall. This box is so thin that it would need to be between 50 and 55- inches for me to get 0.9 to 1 cu ft.

    The SWS woofer will work ported in this box. The bass will be accurate and handle whatever music you wanna play

    Get Me some measurements
     
    Ranger SVO, Oct 11, 2010
    #18
  19. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    okeeee dokeeee.....

    Back in a few....
     
    TheViking, Oct 11, 2010
    #19
  20. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Total box volume is 1.1 cubic feet...

    using .5" MDF....

    Back wall 15 "
    bottom of box 5.5"
    top of box 3.5"
    width of box 42"

    I am leaving an inch or so in front of the baffle for woofer excursion and keeping it away from the sides of the cab a ways for proper venting.....I have not taken into account any internal bracing and/or woofer discplacemnt....so figure closer to 1 cube total...I can fudge the width a few inches if need be....
     
    TheViking, Oct 11, 2010
    #20
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