vibrating/speaker location/box design

vibrating metal plate/rear speaker location/box design

i have a chevy metro, a relatively small car. i have replaced all the speakers and the header. the metal sheet in the back of the car that holds the speakers vibrates with the bass that is produced by those speakers. i have tried to reinforce the metal to stop these vibrations to slight avail.

what i am thinking about doing is putting a metal grate over the current speaker holes and placing the speakers that are back there in a smallish box in the trunk. these are not sub-woofers, they are a 6.5 component set.

i assume this would make the sound from those speakers slightly muffled (not being played directly into the car) but would also increase the bass response because the mounting point would no longer be vibrating with the speaker. i have read that normal speakers (non subs) arn't ment for 'boxes' that they need to be in open air.

i'm asking if my assumptions are correct and what your advice would be to do in this situation. can i build a box? will it screw things up? i dont currently have an amp, i would like to at some point but if it vibrates when i'm putting 22 into a 90 rms speaker....


edit: oh yes, and sorry if this is in the wrong forum.

 

i've screwed a piece of wood to it still doesn't help, also i have wood to make boxes but sadly not money to buy something like dynomat thou i have looked at them.

should the box(es) be ported? or maybe leave a side off? or sealed? also could i make it one box?

edit: and when i say the metal vibrates from the bass i dont mean that the bass causes the metal to vibrate, i mean the bass causes the speaker to physically move up and down and vibrate the metal.

edit2: the other questions answered would be nice too.

 

thanks for the help. i appreciate it.

 

you know.. i'm not sure that'll stop vibrations better than a board and a buncha screws.... and that doesn't work... so.... plus that wont stop any power lost from physical movement of the mounting points instead of the speaker...

 

i have NO money, its not about 'cheep' or not. i wont spend money on this. wood is a great insulator, do you ever see electricity go threw it? nope. if a 2x4 isn't stopping something from moving what makes you think some foam will? i have tried foam fyi, and it didn't do ****. oh and 'works' doesn't = stops.

 

they dont use wood because its heavy, or our cars would just be thicker metal. i wasn't asking how to stop the vibrations i was asking about a box. i guess you didn't read any of the posts or you'd know that.

 

thats nice, and i appreciate it, but i already knew that. but how about just answering the question i asked instead of giving unsolicited advice. i'm done, so it doesn't matter. no one told me anything new as is usual with BBS's. btw part of the reason i'm building a box instead of making the stock mount points vibrate less is because the wood/fabric cover thing that goes over the metal back there doesn't fit with the speakers. building a box fixes both the problems, not just the vibrating problem. you may have more experience (since i've never bothered to build a box) but you dont know more about my situation or what i'm able to do. the box is free (just gotta chop up some wood lying around) and if it still sounds like **** nothing says i cant move it back and look for other options, such as the hard rubber with glue on it.



experience!=knowledge

 

i did ask for advice, but only on my assumptions. (below) which only 1 was answered, i also asked later more details about the box... which also really weren't answered. so the 'advice' i seem to be getting from you is "well the RIGHT way is to use the asphalt/rubber glued to the metal, but if you wanna build a box.... it doesn't matter how big or small it is, or if its ported or not.... so just build a box." that's some great advice..... my 4 yo said the same thing...

 

"Car speakers are designed to work in a free air install. So a large enclosure will not hurt performance." throws everything off, yes you've given me nice ft² size, but it also then said that a box to big wont hurt anything, so it really doesn't matter how big the box is(other than to small) or if its ported or not (from that advice anyway)
it may cost more to buy all those things for the box, but as i said i have some MDF laying around, screws out the ass and what wood worker wouldn't have wood glue. i dont see a point for the silicone caulk (the glue should seal everything) and if the size/ported doesn't matter the caulk is overkill (but i have some of that around also)
the other problem with using the glued rubber mat is that i dont have a place to mount the tweeters in the back with the speakers in the stock holes.

i dont mean to give an attitude (okay i do) but i get very tired of half assed answers that only address a few aspects(dont like repeating myself). i'm not an idiot and tend to do quite a bit of research before even bothering to find a board to post on. this is not limited to just this board and i'm sorry if i've taken some of my annoyance with the more pebkac users out there upon you all.

its a 11 year old car, i dont expect it to last much longer and a box is easy to transfer (easier) to a new car, it gives me a mount point for the tweeters and the external cross overs, fixes the vibrations in the back, allows me to remove my brace and lets me put the board in the back where it goes. the bass(haha silly fish) currently vibrates something in my dash and the front right speaker is... damaged, so its not like i'm going for perfect, easy and with stuff i have is the main goal.


edit: i've attached my plans for the box (i think... i'm having troubles making sense of my own plans ><) will it suffice? or do i need to change my plan of attack.