replacing an alternator, power problems

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by 961kyle, Jan 17, 2007.

  1. 961kyle

    961kyle Full Member

    right now i have 2 infinity 1252w wired at 2 ohms with a profile 1200 running them at 300 rms a piece, i have replaced my "big 3", and my lights are still dimming, i planned on adding a second battery, i got the pac200 battery isolator or relay whatever, then i heard that if my alternator doesnt put out enough its not going to matter anyway, so i got a few questions, first how much should an alternator put out to run two batteries, second how do i go about getting that checked out,
    oh yea, and the reason why i want to take care of this problem is because i am adding two more infinity 1252's and going to run those with the alpine mrd-m1005, so there is no point in doing that if i cant power it all, any thoughts or ideas would be helpful
     
  2. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    exactly how big is your alt now?in what kind of car.
     
  3. 961kyle

    961kyle Full Member

    not sure how big it is now, ive never had to do anything with it, its in a 2000 chevy blazer if that helps out any
     
  4. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    sounds like your big three is not right, did you use 4 gauge wire? Others will be in to offer help.:)
     
  5. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    i have a 96 jimmy 4.3.it should be a 105 amp alt.

    i have at least twice the power of that amp.i run 3 amps.
    double check ALL your connections.maybe you do need to upgrade the thickness of your wires.

    what size are they now.you should have at least 4 gauge,but get real 4 gauge not the cheap stuff.the cheap stuff has thick insulation.the good stuff has thick wire.
     
  6. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    have your battery load tested
     
  7. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    yes that too.
     
  8. 961kyle

    961kyle Full Member

    i have all 4 gauge stinger wire
    let me run the big 3 by you all and make sure i did it right
    1. positive battery terminal to alternator
    2. negative battery terminal to engine block
    3. negative battery terminal to frame

    its a pretty new battery, probably not 3 three months old, its from a farm and fleet store, probably my weak point would be my amp ground, i drilled a hole into the sheet metal under my rear seat and have it held on to it with a nut and bolt, thats the only thing i can think of, maybe i need to go directly to the frame, or i did my big 3 wrong, i have no idea, help me out guys i would appreciate it
     
  9. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    you did it right!
     
  10. 961kyle

    961kyle Full Member

    so i did that right, what do you think about my ground, that should be fine i would think, but thats why im so confused about my lights dimming, my electrical system should be able to handle what i have i think, but then what do i know, im stuck
     
  11. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Did you have your battery load tested? your alternators output tested?
     
  12. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    If you look underneath your truck along the outside of the frame...There may be a few cables/wires connecting the body to the frame...I upgraded these too on my Explorer
     
  13. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    did you sand down to the bare metal for the ground.?

    i know i'll catch shiit for saying this but i use my rear seat bolt for my ground and have zero probs with dimming lights.BUT!!! i did use a metal brush to clean it up before i bolted every thing down.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2007
  14. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Pedro your ground sucks!!! haha

    That is an ametuer ground!!! haha
     
  15. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    it works though.

    in my best forrest gump impression"and thats all i got to say about that!"