i decided tonight that i needed to upgrade my factory battery to alt wire. im now having issues. i took off my intake, because the part that sits over the radiator takes up a lot of room. in the process i forgot to put the IAT plug back in adn now throw a code, but thats the least of my concerns. as i did with the wire that ran to the negative on the battery, i removed the positive terminal, and mounted it elsewhere...in this case, i just took the wire and mounted it to the + on the alt. i then used 2/0 wire to go from the battery to the alt. now when i turn on my a/c and the fan is on high, the voltage drops low enough that abs shuts off, check engine light comes on, and stereo resets. im not sure if its because there's no capacitance in the alt, or what, but my voltages have dropped--the OPPOSITE of what i expected after going from 10 awg to 2/0 awg :angry: ideas? eric
a Few things When Upgrading wires you need to upgrade all 3, not just the Alt to Batt connection Make sure all Connections are TIGHT and well made
i understand about upgrading all of them...i did the negatives over a month ago, and i cranked down all the connections, no dice. the only thing i can really think of is the fact that the terminal that was originally on the positive battery terminal is trying to draw too much instant current from the alt directly... eric
I dont understand what you did You should have just replaced the factory wire, EXCATLY as the factory had it, not moved anything anywhere
well, here's the story. the new wire goes from the factory + to alt, because thats where a majority of the power will need to go. i do not have a way of putting both the alt to battery + AND the factory wire onto the battery. so what i did was use the 2/0 wire from the battery to the alt, and just moved the factory battery terminal over to the alt. i did this on the ground of my truck with no problems. the factory battery ground goes to the block, and i could not get to it, so i hooked that terminal to the frame, and then hooked the alt and the battery each to the same spot on the frame with the engine block ground. it worked perfectly, so i tried it with the hot side, and now it doesnt work correctly. im just trying to figure out if its a capacitance issue or a resistance issue (ie not being close enough to the battery or whether there's a likely culprit adding resistance). eric
Ok, let me get this right You have: Alt -----------------------> Batt Alt ------------------------> Factory power Block The Factory Had Alt --------------> Batt Batt -------------> Power Block the why you have it is BAD news Alternator Raw Power is very Unregulated, this is why the Factory routes the main Power block to the Battery and not the Alt. the Battery Alt as a Stablizer so voltage irregulaties are aborbed in the battery and not your card sensitve electronics. This is the First problem I see Next if it is not broke Dont fix it Leave the Grounds in the SAME post the factory had them, espcially on Unibody cars. Like I have said many times, Ground are Finicky Creatures It may appear to be a good ground in in reality it is not.. ReRun the Ground exactly as the Factory had them. if you can not get to it, re hookup the Orginal, and then ADD a new one to the Frame...
