I am looking for some information/reviews on Planet Audio's VX4004? I was thinking to use it to run a set of Polk MMC 6500's in front and a pair of JL Audio 10W3v3-8's in the rear(1.1 cu. ft. sealed). Just a simple, clean system with a little volume. I read on Planet's website that the 4004 makes 100w/channel @ 4 ohms RMS, so with two 8 ohm parallel to a single 4 ohm load, then bridged to the rear channel it should make somewhere around 200 watts? Does this sound correct, or is my math wrong? I just wonder if Planet inflates its posted ratings. I've heard that some companies do that. Thanks in advance for any information.
You are alittle off in your thinking on the power output in the Bridged mono mode for your subs, wired as you have stated would actually cause the amp to run at 2 ohm ! which is OK! And accordong to the numbers posted here http://www.planetaudiousa.com/home/catalog/public_html/catalog.php?sNs=1&deptNum=3&catNum=16 its good for 400 watts. I have never even heard of Planet Audio myself. Not saying it is a bad brand, I DONT know, claims to be USA made, so if thats the case for real, i would be more apt to buy them than some offshore POS! If the power ratings are exaggereated, even a good clean 50 watts to your highs and 150-200 watts to your lows will make for a nice sounding system if done right. Anyone else out their know more about these amps to help this guy out???????
Planet Audio Amps will not do a 2-ohm load when bridged Mono. They might say it will but IT WILL NOT. They will get hot and shut down. 2-ohm stereo is OK We deal in Planet Audio here. Overall they perform well.
Ok, so no 2 ohm bridge for the amp. That said, should I opt for the 4 ohm versions wired series to make 8 ohm total load then bridge for a 4 ohm load to the amp? At a posted 100 watts per channel, what would that give me wired as above? or Should I use the 4 ohm woofers wired to each independant channel of the amp? or Is there another route I should take that would be better than the above? Thanks for the reply and information.
GOing by what Ranger said of the amp, I would use (2) DVC subs, each wired parralel, run in 2 ohm stereo
Viking, I plugged the parameters for a JL Audio 10W3V2-D4 (10" - 4 ohm DVC) into my enclosure software (bassbox lite). With an internal volume of .5 cu. ft. I came up with a F3 of 48.63 Hz. Not bad for such a small volume. In fact, everything was going fine until I selected parallel wiring of the coils. The program calculated a F3 of 94.4 Hz. with the same volume. What gives? If I understand correctly, Qes and Qts (coils wired parallel or series) should be about half of the individual coil parameters. The program also suggests a vented design only (coils wired parallel or series) and a closed design only (coils wired individually). Why would this be? On JL's site it gives all the TS parameters and states the only parameter that changes with different wiring set-up's is Re. When I plug in Qes and Qts for parallel or series wiring of the coils, the program gives a warning that these numbers should be about half of what an individual coil is. If I understand your suggestion correctly, I should wire the coils of each driver in parallel to each channel of the amp - presenting the amp with a 2 ohm stereo load. Right? This being said, the amp (given the manufacturer's stated output) would produce about 200 watts per channel. Right? Sorry about all the questions but I've never wired or designed around a DVC speaker. This is definately a learning experience. Any information that would lead me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
Those subs are single coil 8 ohm...so just stick with those and wire 'em parallel...then bridge it to the amp. I think everyone who replied thought they are dual 8 ohms. Ok I posted this a second after dsl did and just left...my bad...or whatever lol
Right, the 10W3v3-8's have a single 8 ohm coil. The 10W3v2-D4's have dual 4 ohm coils. After looking at the response of each, I am leaning toward the DVC if I can figure out the parallel wiring glitch.
I read the other posta after this one one made, just wanted to touch base on ths subject. THe wiring of the DVC subs whether its parellel or seies, will effect the inductance of the load, but to change some of the other parameters so drastically is beyond me at the moment. (been years since I played with programs and box designs!) The F3 point you stated was 94 Hz. Ya, sounds pretty high really. But look at the entire plot line, is it a sharp drop off or is it a a rather gently sloping line? The reason I ask is because of this, If its a smooth steady non- sharp roll off from the f3 point, once you put the enclosure into the vehicle, it wont be that noticable. Due to a neat thing called "transfer function", which basically means the acoustics of the car will generally add anywhere from 5 to 10 dB of output to the subbass, this is a variable that is determined by length of vehicle, woofer positionwithin car, etc.........And if you want a less "boomy" system, that would be a good box actually!!!!!!!! As far as the program you are using is concerned, i dont know much about it, but i can honestly say, that all the box programs out their tend to come up with different results!!!!! Non of the them seemed to be truely "dead on", just a rough guideline to let you get a decent predictable result. If you can, post the curves you come up with, also what kind car you are do9ing this in.
