PG xenon 200.4

well i know its rated at 400x2 at 2ohms bridged.that 1600 rating may be a peak reading.

i know from experiance though that these amps are under rated.i own an M50 and its rated at 245x1 at 4ohms and i measured 735 watts at 2 ohms from it.

 

Haha yeah right...1600 watts if the amp was struck by lightning and plugged into a 440 wall socket

 

1600 is a bit much but the 800 isnt out of the question.it is 22 inches long x 10.6 wide.

 

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14136

Rated at only 400 total watts rms

 

thats its 4 ohm rateing 300 x2 is possible.

http://www.soundbuggy.com/Eric/Car Audio/phoenix_gold/xenon/x200_4/index.html

again thats the 4 ohm mono rateing.it is 2 ohm mono stable.

the PG site says 400x2 at 2 ohms mono.

 

PG should have stuck with RCA cables!!!!!!! (wiring was thier introduction to the audio world)

 

azn that website is wrong on the power ratings. The Xenon 200.4 is just that .. 200 x 4 . So you can wire it to 400 x 2 and thats the best you are going to get out of it.

 

with that power rating on the subs. bridge the channels so you have 2 channels on 1 sub and 2 channels on the other sub. That would be enough power to run the subs. If you put down 1200 rms to those subs.. they will be smoking within the week. What the salesman fails to realize is that the PG Xenon is a regulated power supply and does not change power rating when the ohm load changes. The fact that he even WANTS to put 1200 rms to a pair of speakers that only have a 350rms with a max rating of 700 makes me think he has no idea what he is doing. Like i said if you bridge the channels you would be pushing 400 rms per sub and thats more than enough.

 

sorry but that rep is a complete retard...do not listen to anything he tells you. There is a reason that manufacturers rate woofers for a continuous power handling...if you exceed that rating than most of the time the sub will fry. But a rep telling you to put 1200 watts rms to a pair that are rated at 700 watts rms combined is a little overboard. Unless these subs are very underrated and have a huge coil and very good cooling than sure the pair can prolly handle 1000 watts rms

Yes, the enclosure type and size will affect power handling.

 

Wanna a good way to estimate amp output power? This is not 100% but it should get you close to a realistic output.

Add up the amperage of the fuses and multiply by 10. This should get you close enough.

For example my Kenwood, according to Kenwood is an 800 watt amp. Ya right. It has 2 20 amp fuses. That makes it a 400 watt amp. Much closer to reality. Still a little high.

This should get you close for most new amps, older amps have much less effecient power suppies so estimating this way will result in a very high estimate that is wrong.

It takes current to make power. A 20 amp max draw will not get close to 400 watts except in your dreams.

 

nice quick and easy way ranger.

But when I look around I take the total fuse rating and multiply that by 13

IV=P (total input power)
Mulitply that by the amps efficiency (class ab todays are between 50-60% efficient and good class d amps are around 80%)

So say you have an amp with 40 amps total fuse

40 amps X 13 volts = 520 watts input

520 watts input X .6 (good class ab) = 312 watts output

 

Your method is actually much closer to the rated 4-ohm output of my amp. My method is actually right on the money for bridged output.

I will need to look at you method a little more closely, but it makes sense.

 

ok so calculate mine!

my sub amp (class D) is 3 x 40 amp fuses

my high amp (class A/B ) is 2 x 30 amp fuses

 

32.7 million watts, at 750 volts DC, and ILS!

 

I always use 13 volts for a little more realistic output...Most cars unless equipped with a HO alternator most likely won't be able to pump out 14.4 volts with a 60 amp load on it

Class D (if it is 80% efficient)
120 amps X 13 volts = 1560 watts INPUT

1560 watts X .8 = possible 1248 watts OUTPUT

High amps (on a good day 60% efficient)
60 amps X 13 volts = 780 watts INPUT

780 watts x .6 = 468 possible watts OUTPUT

 

I would have calculated 1200- for the class D and 600- for the class A/B
Again this is just a quick guess method. We use it because so many customers come in with pawn shop amps and swear that its a 1000 watt amp. NOT with a single 25 amp fuse its not.

So what is the rated output?

 

lol I see those A LOT. Everyone (noobs) especially love those maximun and peak ratings.

Like there's a little autobody and car stereo store down the street from me. They deal Lanzar, bottom line Fusion, Pyle, DHD, and other crappy brands.

The Lanzar subs I actually like for the price...but the lanzar amps are crap to me. One of my cousins friends told her to go to this place for a cheap stereo...they hooked her up with an alright Pioneer deck, 600 watt max Lanzar amp, Lanzar 12Max square sub and a small sealed box.

It all sounded pretty decent after dialed in the gain and boost from the all thee way up settings from her ghetto friend who installed it.

But the amp was rated 600 watts max and something like 260 watts rms...with a 20 AMP FUSE.

and from my method that comes out to be around 100 watts rms