Newbie-First post, need opinions please.

Hello David...Welcome to the forum.

My 2 cents.

You should have done your homework more and researched equipment before rather than buying on impulse.

Anything Pyle is poop...sorry

The Earthquake sub could sound pretty good in the right enclosure...You could have looked up the internal volume of the hotbox and found a sub that would work well in it.

That Crunch amp is 1000 MAX and prolly 200-350 real rms...maybe a little less or more.

As for the car speakers...do those come in pairs or singles in each box?

Tweets...I doubt they can handle 100 watts rms...but who knows

I don't really have anything else to say right now....but if you like it after you install it than good.

I hate it when this happens.

You'll get plenty more feedback.

P.S.

Why from Chinatown? If it's anything like Vietnam town than a lotta that **** is bootleg stuff lol.

 

crap crap crap and oh yea CRAP. 700 bucks heh? SCREWED!

 

Thats two for crap.

 

welcome to the forum, please ignore the snappiness of our fellow members, but yes, you bought some equipment that will not last you very long, or sound very good, for that matter. I was reading your post, and got to the part where you said "chinatown" and I thought "oh crap" and then I read earthquake and I said "oh sh t" then I read crunch and I thought "wal-mart has fire extinguishers on sale"

sorry dude.. Were not trying to be mean, but you dumped 700 bucks on some components that you will surely be replacing soon if you decide to get serious about car audio. Unfortunately the shops in chinatown are not well known for thier warranty support, or thier willingness to take back unwanted items. For 700 dollars, you could have put together a much better system just by doing some minor research.

IMO, the only thing that I'd consider using would be the wire, although that sub really does look beefy for a no-namer..^_^

 

Decent sub at least

 

Only thing I would maybe consider using here is the power wire and the sub maybe....those rcas look like poopy...sorry...but poopy

 

Well if you allready have it , guess you need to make do . I would strive to get the best sound possible from what you have. Prep your doors real well for the 6.5's. Deaden the outerskin with a couple layers of mat. Layer the inner door frame too. Cover all the holes that aren't needed in the door skin. The idea is to seal the door up as good as possible to simulate an enclosure. Then use some deflex pads, or sound control foam directly behind the drivers on the outer skin to help cone control. And before you mount the drivers to the baffle ( doors ) make a rope of non hardnening modeling clay , and use it like a gasket to mount the driver. The clay helps to isolate the driver and reduce chances for resonation. Seems your not really headed for competition level soundstage, but overall decent output for all passengers. In this case I would keep the rear tweets as close to the mids as possible.

Now for the sub . First thing your gonna need an amp to power it. Get that figured out and you will be on your way

 

ok you bought it .so use them untill you can get better stuff. if anything you will get some experiance with the install for when and if you get new speakers/amps.use the front two channels to run the 2 6.5s and tweeters into 2ohms stereo.and if the sub is a single voice coil run the rear channel bridged.if dual voice coil run it in stereo on each coil.oh if the amp has a built in x over use it.the rear speakers can be run off of the rear powered output of the radio.(if you want to be able to fade front to back).you can get a two channel amp later,and re wire it to run your sub.then use the 4 ch for the 4 6.5s and the 4 tweeters.most amps these days have built in x overs so you still wont need that xover.i hope that helps you.good luck.

 

If you are goin to run those 6.5s and a tweet for each front channel you are going to need a crossover system...don't expect that sub to really get loud with that amp...rear channels bridged prolly pushing a real 125 watts....just a crappy guess for a weak amp...um.....hook it up and if it sounds good to you than great

Good luck

 

all i have to look at is the pic of the tweets and they look like they have a xover with them.the amp also looks like it has a builtin xover.i have a power acoustik LT980 bridged mono to a kicker L5 solo baric 10 (8ohms) in a truck box in the back of my jimmy,and it gets pretty loud and deep considering its only getting half of the amps rated mono output.(560 rms).so about 280 rms.give or take.so if that sub is in a decent box it should sound ok.hell i could be wrong.hopefully for him i'm not.

 

Doesn't matter if the amp as a built in crossover or not...that would be only for the output of the amp...I'm talking about a crossover system that would send the highs to the tweeters and the mids and lows to the 6.5's.

That black box that is on the pic of the tweeters could be just a box that the tweeters are in....just a guess...I can't see any inputs or outputs on it...but what the hell.

 

if he sets the xover for the mids the xover on the highs(if thats what they are should work fine.say 125hz and up on the mids and the hi pass on the tweets should protect them.had a simillar set up in my old pick up.5 1/4 mid in the doors off of my m44 amp and a pair of polk tweets with only the cap they came with.(door was polk 2 way)the extra tweeters was to bring my stage a little higher up.i would still have them but they got moisture damage.old truck bad seals in the doors.

 

But what aznboi means is the 2 way passive networks for components. Most amps ( I know this one doesn't ) don't have hi enough crossover settings on them for tweets. He's gonna need in lines or something for the tweets. And his amp doesn't have bandpass crossovers either. Hi or low. So he's gong need either or, for the mids as well

 

ok you might have a point there.he might just have to spend more money then.