New Stereo Install Mounting To Box?

hi all, i have a 97 taurus and will be doing a complete install of a new system. I have a kicker L7 and mtx 6001 mono amp with a 5 farad lanzar capacitor. The car also comes with the ford premium sound system which i will be using also. I was wondering if i can mount the amp and capacitor to the back of the kicker box in my trunk. i have been reading a bit about mtx amps class d design where the parts are surface mounted to prevent vibrations of electronic parts. I've seen people do this but was wondering if this is a no no and will destroy my amp or capacitor very quickly.

 

Great thanks that will save a lot of hassle, i have the box in my house so will build it here where its warm! The capacitor is so shiny and has nice blue lights, its going to be like a disco in my trunk lol. I would drag it behind the car with a rope maybe to use as extra steering like a tail, but when i had another system in a tempo without a cap the headlights would blink to the music almost to a point of turning completely off each time. So thats why i grabbed a one farad capacitor and it fixed the problem. Now i have this 5 farad which i haven't tried yet.

Thanks for the Welcome to the site

 

Heyy, thanks for all the good info. Never heard of the Big 3 lol. So the three are:

1. Altenator charging wire to 4 or 8 gauge
2. Battery ground cable to chassis 4 or 8 gauge
3. Battery ground cable to engine 4 or 8 gauge

Is this correct or did you also mean to upgrade the battery to a 1200 cold crank amp Interstate!! lol which am looking into. The car is getting a 120 amp altenator to replace the original, i will make sure to change that charging wire to 4 gauge. I have 4 gauge wire now with a 60 amp glass fuse, is this enough or maybe i should go to 0 gauge? I probably wont go past 1000 watts rms total when i'm finished. The mtx 6001 amp will be the biggest draw. I'm still not convinced about the capacitor though lol. If you calculate the length of the wire and diameter by the time the voltage goes from the battery to the trunk, it will have lost a lot of amperage. They say to install the capacitor as close to the amp as possible with the shortest wire possible to reduce the resistance. That way the cap has a full charge ready for the amp and doesn't have to travel through all that wire and resistance. I am no expert by far, this is fairly new to me and this is how i see it! Does anyone have pics of amps mounted to the back of the box i would love to see! Thanks

 

Oh, I already wasted my money on a capacitor so thats why i'm pushing for it lol.

 

hi, mine has the digital readout also, looks cool, haven't been able to light it up yet still waiting on my amp. Do you have any pics of your system?

When i asked earlier about changing the 4 gauge to 0 gauge i meant the positive wire to the trunk cable not the altenator wire. Viking or Pedro Thanks!

 

hey, thanks that 0 gauge wire is pricey. Your box is tuned to 32hz? Is there a simple way to tune any box or is it done by the manufacturer. Also what does it accomplish, possibly a vortex of compressed electrolytically charged ions that acts as an impermeable wall of thunder? lol

 

thanks for all the info about caps, will be one less thing to hook up and have screw up later. Now that i think about it, it was probably the battery ground to chassis wire that was causing the headlights to flash as i did not change the original yet. Then i bought the cap and it was better until the ground wire started melting. Does anyone have some pictures they can post of amps mounted to the kicker box in the trunk. Was thinking to put a couple neon lights on either side of the amp, am looking for ideas. Or maybe give me a link where there are pictures in this website, there is a ton of info here, too much to go through for me. I put my nice shiny cap back on ebay for sale where i got it lol.