Looking for new system guidance.

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by Khayman, Apr 15, 2010.

  1. Khayman

    Khayman Full Member

    Hello,

    Looking for some guidance on what to put into my SUV. I have been reading a lot of forums, and other websites, trying to determine what is best and I have been unsuccessful at deciphering all the information. The one thing that has resonated clearly on all the forums, is to list out what you want your system to do, the conditions of the vehicle it will be going into, and the budget. There are 4 reputable car audio stores in my area, and I have talked with each one of them. From reading the forums, I feel like they are just trying to push their product on me, instead of matching the product to my needs. It also feels like they are kind of ripping me off, so I wanted to get opinions to help guide me on the right path.

    Vehicle - I am looking to replace everything in my 2001 Dodge Durango R/T, as far as the audio system goes. I currently have the infinity stock system, with a couple of the speakers blown. My wife has a 2007 Murano with navigation, and that is what we take on trips, so navigation is not really a concern. I also have a 2.5 year old that loves to watch movies in the Murano, so I am looking to get video for him to watch. Also, we take guy's trips with my friends, so having the flip down display for the 3rd row would mainly be for that. I would like to be able to keep the 3rd row functional, and be able to use the Durango to haul stuff if needed, so the sub/amp would need to be removable or hidden. The ideal configuration would be that the display in the passenger front seat would show whatever is in the head unit, that way I can change out movies for my son without having to stop the car. The flip down could display whatever the head unit is displaying, or the DVD that is in the flip down. The driver seat display would be able to display what is in the head unit, or what is in the flip down. I know this is complicated, and not sure if it is possible, but it is the goal.

    Head Unit - My goal (read - not necessarily what I will end up with) is a Double Din head unit with hands free blue tooth, built-in iPod interface, DVD playback with outputs and touchscreen panel. The head units I am using as comparison is the Clarion NX700 for double din, and the Clarion NZ500 for single din. I am not locked into this brand or models, but to give an idea on what I am looking for. Ideally, the head unit will have dual zone, so that I can still listen to music on the radio or iPod while my son is watching a movie with the wireless headphones. I am willing to sacrifice on the double din, as I am not sure if it is worth the money to modify the dash. Bluray would be ideal, but I haven't seen anything bluray compatible. If I don't do the displays that are described lower, then the DVD playback ability isn't needed. I don't have any desire to be able to watch movies from the head unit.

    Video - For video, I am wanting to put in a display in each of the front molded seats for the 2nd row, and a flip down on the roof for the 3rd row. I Would like to put the largest screen size I can in the molded seats. One of our local audio stores said 5.8" would be the largest because there is only about 6.5" of width available to put in a display. The displays in the seats would need to have 2 inputs, I would guess, in order for them to be able to be ran off the head unit, or the flip down. The flip down would obviously need to have a DVD player built in, and 1 input and 1 output for the seat displays. Also, my Durango has the rear air conditioning controls, this system is on the roof and runs the width of the vehicle just behind the front seats. This would ideally be where the flip down would go, so I believe I would need to mount the flip down farther back and that might run it into whoever is sitting in the middle of the 2nd row. Is there some way around this that I don't know of? Ideally the video system would be able to ready bluray, as most of our collection is bluray, but I have not been able to find anything bluray compatible. The video I am willing to sacrifice, because it seems like there is no really good solution, and if I do all the video, they will then release bluray systems and I would need to update anyway. My son doesn't ride in my Durango that often, and not too concerned that my friends can watch something while we are on our trips.

    Component Speakers - I have (4) 6 3/4" component speakers, 2 in the front and 2 in the rear. I believe these are all run off a stock amp. This would all have to be pulled out, from what I understand. It seems to me that the best replacement option would be 6 1/2" speakers, as it seems there are more choices in this size. There are so many different options for the component speakers that I don't know what I should be looking at for what I want.

    Subwoofer(s) - For subwoofer, I am not sure what the best configuration would be. I am not opposed to (1) 8" sub, or (4) 15" subs. Whatever I would need that would fit my criterion.

    Amplifier(s) - From what I can tell this just needs to be sized to be able to run whatever subs I use, so I guess I would need suggestions for amps to go with the subs/comp. speakers. Again, so many different choices, what ohms to run and so on, that require a knowledge level greater then what I have.

    Budget - My budget would ideally be between $2k-$3k, but could go up to $5k if needed. It's not so much about price, but about "bang for the buck". If the subs cost twice as much, will I get twice the performance? Is the double din modification for $500-$700 really worth it? I know some people will be thinking, why put that much money into a car that is barely worth more. I love my Durango, I could get something nice and newer, I just don't want to.

    Preferences - My listening styles range from alternative rock (Breaking Benjamin/Tool) to rap (Black Eyed Peas/Eminem) to Show Tunes (Phantom of the Opera/Les Miserables). Looking for a system where the show tunes come out clear and crisp at high volumes, but at the same time I get good bass for black eyed peas, and can rock out to some Deftones. I want solid bass, but not looking to be able to have it heard blocks away. I like to listen to music loud, so loud I can't hear my bad singing to the music ;). Really just want a good listening experience from the system to where I want to drive around just to listen to it.

    Big 3 - I have read about this a lot, but haven't read anything that really describes what it means. From what I can tell, it is referencing the power supply for the system. Something along the lines of new wires/battery/alternator. What does this mean, and what will it mean for my system?

    Installation - Is this worth doing myself. I am fairly competent, doing manufacturing design engineering for a living. I do all the maintenance work myself on my Durango (plugs, wires, distributor, shocks, brakes, fluids, window regulators, etc.). Electronics, wiring, and installation doesn't scare me. It's more of a time issue, I work a lot so my free time is fairly valuable. If a professional installer can do the work in 1 day, will it take me 1 day with little knowledge or will it take me 4 days. I would have to do a lot of research it seems to know how to setup the amps and tune them, setting up the headset crossovers and sound settings. I don't have any feel for how easy or hard this is (obviously it's easy to most of you, as you do it a lot). About how much would this complete installation cost?

    Anything Else - is there anything I am missing. Adapters, add-ons, etc. I helped a buddy of mine in high school (about 15 years ago) with an installation, and there were a lot of other things they had to install. But it seems like today's technology has a lot of that built into the components.

    I know this is long, and I apologize for that, just trying to be very clear so you all have the information you would need, as best as I can give it, to help me out. I tried posting this before, but after waiting 30 minutes I didn't see it show up. If this double posts, I apologize. Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2010
  2. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    wow! that was a long post! lol

    Vehicle:

    so it's a durango. now from what i understand you want a DVD unit with a flipdown screen in the back and you want to be able to change DVD's while driving so you don't have to stop. correct? simple, all of these players have a way to play without having to stop, you just ground to the parking brake and you can play while driving without having to stop. I just don't recommend you watch anything while driving. lol Now, the flipdown will be connected to the DVD head unit so what ever your head unit is playing you can view on the flip down.

    Video:
    Now all you need is what they call headrest monitors. these will also connect in the DVD head unit so again, whatever is played on the HU can be played on the heard rest monitors and 3rd row flip down. As far as blueray goes, i haven't heard yet of any DVD stereos that play blue ray but i've been out of the scene for a little while. i would have to check.

    Subs:
    the question here is how much room do you have to play with behind the 3rd row? that would determine what size subs you could use. just make the box so you can remove it when needed. no biggie there. we just have to know your dimensions. Personally, you not joining any competitions so a middle line sub would fit you just fine. you don't want them too heavy either cuz you'll be removing them from time to time. To answer your question about a expensive sub and a "ok" sub. there are slight differences but it all depends upon the enclosure you put them in. if you have a $500 sub in a crappy enclosure then it will sound like ass. and if you have a $40 sub in a really nice box then it will sound great.

    Amps:

    Lets work on choosing your subs and component speakers first before we get to the amps. essentially you would want to look for a 4 channel amp and a mono amp

    component speakers:

    6 3/4? just shoot for 6 1/2 same difference. lol.. there are many choices for 6 1/2 component speakers. Don't get cheap here, this is where you spend your money. Picking one all depends upon the type of sound you like. I would suggest you get component speaker for the front and coax speakers for the rear, i think having components in the rear is a little overkill. coax speakers in the rear would be just fine. Here's the deal, we can pick speakers for you, you're going to be the one listening to them so only you know what kind of sound you like. I suggest you go to a car audio shop and listen to some. Brands you may want to take a look at:
    Focal
    DLS
    Polk
    JBL
    Infinty
    Hertz
    All of these speakers have different qualities.. Focals can have harsh highs if you don't know how to tame them but there are SUPER clear, DLS sound very natural but IMO are only good for in-car listening. those are just some examples. JBL's have a tendancy to get a bit muddy with their midbass, infinity can also sound "bright" for some people.

    Big three:

    read up on this...
    http://www.caraudiotalk.com/audio-forum/showthread.php?t=3987

    Installation:

    if you can do it yourself i suggest you do it. the only thing you may have a hard time doing is getting the 3rd row monitor up. you could just have that professionally installed along with the head rest monitors then do the rest yourself. you WILL save a lot doing the install yourself. this is where car audio shops really stick it to you. you're prolly looking at maybe $1000 ++ to do an install like that prolly even a lot more.

    Add-ons:

    A LOT of wires, RCA's, distribution blocks, ring terminals.

    lets' start by getting your max measurements from behind your 3rd row so we can help you decide on what kind of sub stage to use and start listening to component speakers to see what you like.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2010
  3. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    hope that helped you out a bit.
     
  4. Khayman

    Khayman Full Member

    Yes this does help, thanks

    Here are some answers, and more info.

    The driver and passenger seats are molded, so I can't do headrest monitors, they would have to be cut into the existing seats. I am leaning towards just not doing any of the video. It doesn't seem like I can do what I really want, and the fact that it isn't used for more then just going to work and back (I put 1000 miles on it about ever 3-4 months) it just doesn't seem worth it. Plus that is more money I can put into the audio.

    The back with the 3rd row looks like I have a 18" W x 16" H x 44" L opening, that would keep whatever I put back there below the back window. I could go higher, but then it would be visible from the outside. The 3rd row is angle at about about 1" every 8", or 7.125 Degrees. That would be approximately 7 cubic feet of total space.

    For the components, I am going to go tomorrow and listen to some, but not sure if all those brands will be available. From everything I have read I have made a list of what some good choices might be.

    Alpine SPK-17PRO
    Focal 165VR
    DLS UP6i
    MMATS PRO6,5
    CDT Audio HD-62CF

    I am leaning towards the DLS at this point, but will see what I can hear. It seems like the important specs for comp speakers is the power rating (RMS), frequency range, and sensitivity. I am just not sure what are good numbers. You said that DLS was only good for in-car listening, what does that mean. These will be going into a vehicle so that seems ideal.

    On the Big 3, is that something that I will need to do no matter what, or is something that I see if I need to do after I hear the new system?

    Again, thanks for the help, insight and guidance. Its a huge help!
     
  5. DatDude08

    DatDude08 Full Member

    You probably will want to go on and do the Big 3. It helps out you're electrical system by allowing better current flow for charging to the battery. You can get by with out it with a small system, but seeing as how you are going to more than likely run more than one amp you should go ahead with it and get some of those nice battery terminals where you can wire you're amp straight in like this.
     
  6. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    Removing the video from the mix will save you A LOT of money which can go to your audio system. for the amount of miles you put on the durango i would say trash the video idea. just something else that can go wrong with the system.

    If you want loud with your components then look for higher sensitivity. The higher, the louder the speakers can get. Seeing that you listen to a wide range of music and you do have the money to spend, look at some higher range components for up front. You don't have to go wild with the rear speakers but i would suggest spending on the front components. From the brands you listed, i would take a close look at the Focal, DLS and the Alpines. In that order. The Focal sound REALLY good, VERY clear but you need a certain taste for it. Not everybody likes focal like i do. I've had DLS in the past, what i meant by "in-car" listening was that i had problems getting the sound to come out of the car, sounded great inside but when i opened my doors up to listen to music outside the vocals would get drowned out by the bass. I did like how natural sounding they were though. Just not enough omph for me if you know what i mean.

    with the space you have to play with for your subs and since you don't want to be heard down the block but be more then happy with what you have and also considering that you will remove it from time to time i would suggest just getting 2 12's. that would be PLENTY of bass for your durango. I had 2 12's before in my Expedition and the bass would hurt my ears from time to time when i really pushed the system.
     
  7. Khayman

    Khayman Full Member

    here is a list of what I am looking at so far

    Head Unit - Kenwood KDC-X994 - $260
    Front Comps - Focal 165VR - $430
    Rear Coax - Focal 165CA1 - $160
    Sub - (1) JL Audio 12W6V2 - $340
    Amp - (1) HD900/5 - $800
    Custom Sub Box - $300

    This is about $2300 in components, got someone that will install and setup for about $500.

    Anything majorly wrong with this setup?
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2010
  8. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    Honestly, i would ditch the JL audio gear. there is a lot cheaper stuff out there that perform even better than JL audio. You don't need to go with just one amp. You could get one 4 channel amp then another amp for your sub/s.

    For Subs look at these brands:
    http://www.audioque.com/aq/
    even just 2 SDC2.5's would be more than enough bass for you
    http://www.dcsoundlab.com/

    For amps there's a lot but:

    look again at AudioQue and DC audio, they make solid amps
    Elemental designs make some solid (underrated) amps as well and they aren't at all pricey
    http://www.edesignaudio.com/index.php?cPath=1_22&osCsid=b201dc805a5e4bf4170ed56efe4783dc
    Sundown Audio - very nice amps and subs
    http://www.sundownaudio.com/



    Are you good with working with MDF? you can make your own box for under $50. thats a lot of savings right there.

    any reason why you like the kenwood? Kenwood is good but brands like Alpine, Eclipse and Pioneer are even better. Look for a stereo with 4 volt or higher preouts (front, rear, sub).
    Personally, i like this one.
    http://www.woofersetc.com/p6183/CDA9886--Alpine-CD-receiver-with-MP3-WMA-AAC-playback.htm

    Lastly, order everything online... You'll get better prices...
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2010
  9. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    elemental designs has a combo sale for 300. it comes with a set of 6.5'' comps a 4ch amp and a 10in sub.

    two of those would work out just right in your suv. then all you have to worry about is a head unit and wiring.

    if all you put on your truck is 200+ miles a month. i think a simple system would be all you need.
     
  10. Khayman

    Khayman Full Member

    The prices I listed, except for the box of course, was online and from woofersetc.com. I run a manufacturing shop, so i have access to waterjet, laser, machining centers, lathes, powder coating, welders etc., so I have all the tools i would need to build a nice box. I also work in SolidWorks 3D design software so I could design a really nice box easily. I just am not comfortable with the engineering of them, is square footage all that I need to worry about? If so then I don't see any issue with building my own. I am just not sure about how angles effect it, 45 degree corners, and all kinds of other stuff I see people talking about.

    I picked the kenwood, because the good brand names listed in the head unit forum was Kenwood, Pioneer, and Alpine. With everything I wanted from the H/U it came down to the Kenwood X994 and the Pioneer DEH-6200BT (the Alpine didn't have hands free built in), the Kenwood just came out on top for me.

    The reason i have one amp is because of my criterion to be able to still use my Durango functionally. So room starts getting very limited. The HD900/5 was a small sized amp, with the power needed (however not too sure how it would work operating 2 subs) to run the equipment I had selected. I originally had 2 amps picked out, but when I was talking with different installers, the room issue was a very common source of concern.

    So you think I should go with 2 subs instead of 1. The reason I was going with 1 is that I could always add a 2nd one later if I felt like 1 wasn't enough, instead of going heavy on the subs right away. Would buying a 2 sub already in a box be a bad way to go? I was planning on going sealed instead of ported for the box, since SQ is extremely important to me, and from what I have read sealed is better for SQ. I selected the JL equipment because it was a brand a buddy of mine used and like, and they got very good reviews.

    I think that making my own box is definitely a good way to go, especially after ready some "how-to's" on it. I know a simple system would do just fine, I could just replace the broken speakers with some from a Durango from a junk yard for $50, then add a cheap power sub and be just fine. This is kind of long time goal of mine, I have a 2-3k budget and I want to use it. If I am paying more for something then I should be for a component or brand, I don't want to do that. But I would rather buy something truly better, hit my budget, then try and go cheaper just to go cheaper.

    Thanks again for all the help!
     
  11. Lazy Eye

    Lazy Eye Full Member

    Hey another Durango owner around here now! :)
    I have a 99's Durango, SLT model and I love it, I just got it all fixed back up from my wreck and it's looking better than ever, I still needa post some new pics of it..
    I currently have 2 15's in mine about to add 2 more to it..
    But be prepared to do a lot of sound deadining because Durango's raddle like hell!!!!
     
  12. Khayman

    Khayman Full Member

    Sweet, mine is a 2001 R/T. I did plan on doing a lot of dynamat, but I don't notice a lot of rattling right now (except from the blown speakers of course). Does it get worse once you get a system in?

    FYI, your sig says Durange ;). Don't know how many times I have mistyped that.
     
  13. Lazy Eye

    Lazy Eye Full Member

    lol thanks for pointing that out, I never even noticed it!
    but yeah once you get a system in there it gets a lot worse!
    And the latch for the back hatch kept working its way loose so I put lock tight on the bolts and tightened it back up, came back loose the next day so I ended up drilling holes in front of the latch and put screws threw it, it hasn't came loose since then! ha :)
     
  14. Khayman

    Khayman Full Member

    This is an update to what I am looking to get.

    Kenwood X994 H/U
    Focal 165VR Comps - Front (Amp Driven)
    Focal 165CA1 Coax - Rear (H/U Driven)
    JL 300/2V2 AMP for comps
    2 x JL 12W6V2 Subs
    JL 1000/1V2 Amp (Series/Parallel @ 4 Ohm)

    As I understand it, wiring for 4 Ohm (S/P) is better then wiring 1 Ohm (P/P) because it is less load on that amp. Also, 4 Ohm is what the AMP is rated at.

    I changed to the 300/2 amp to save some money. From what I have read, rears are not very important so I didn't see any reason that I couldn't just run these from the X994 (22W RMS). Is this a mistake? Should I get a 4 channel amp?

    As it stands I am planning on purchasing all this from Amazon/Woofersetc.com, installing myself and building my own box. Looks like I can save over $1000 doing it this way. I have never installed a system before, are there any good beginner instructionals on this. What kind of supplies will I need (Speaker Wire, RCA Cables, Etc.)?

    Thanks again for all the help!