Kryptonitewhite's PICS and VIDS build log Fi IB3 18" and 22"

We shopped for a Buick Rendezvous or Pontiac Aztac so we could get >18 cubes and still have room for kids, grocieries and such and avoid getting a minivan. Explorers, Blasers, Bravadas, and the like we'ren't nearly enough.

Basically we are walling the hatchback. >20 cubes, 8" port. This is temporary until a 21" or 22" driver of similar specs is finished. ( >30mm Xmax, <20Hz Fs)

I originally designed it to have the sub on top and port on bottom, but once the 22" is in, side by side works better.

 

all I can say for myself is.. sacrifice for BASS!

I have a pair of Vifa XT25TG30's 3.5kHz and up off a Kicker KX200.2, 2 Adire Audio FR125S's 750Hz-3.5kHz off a KX350.4, 4 Adire Extremis 6.4's 50Hz-750Hz off a KX850.4, and soon a Fi IB3 22 off a pair of KX/ZX 2500.1's... but for now the 18" off a Lanzar OPTI2000D till I can get it sold. A pair of Audio Control 6XS's to get 4-way active with all 24dB slopes, 2 bandpassed (4.5's and 6.5's). 6 Optima Red Tops. Working on a new deck, Alpine is now gone.

build starts hopefully friday in the freezing ass cold! In the teens at best

 

I hope the wall blends in nicely, a HUGE plain 22" driver, all black wall... in cognito/low pro in a way, but WTF at the same time 8" port doesn't look normal either

 

a little aqward

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hs5u00TluAc&feature=channel_page

free air 16Hz or 20Hz

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKYkNrd9KQ0&feature=channel_page

bass i love you free air aprox 4.5 - 18 watts according to DMM... demo just to show 7Hz signal is lowest, not 18Hz in that track

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Equ_XPb75dE&feature=channel_page

DMM showing 5.7 volts during 7Hz tone, 6x6=36 watts/2 ohm= 18 watts

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DiHlU5EwQXI&feature=channel_page

no more than 12 watts DMM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xk4P-gvnPs&feature=channel_page

 

Got some 8" sonotube. My piece is actually 7 3/4", they make 3 sizes of "8 inch" for shipping purposes.

 

No HO yet but, a lotta people think if u have a bunch of batteries your current draw is higher to charge them... incorrect, it's more bank, current draw is soly on ... well... cuurent draw! For now, we will only have the Opti and @ 2ohms.... 6 batteries otta give enough "buffer" for the alt to keep up in between "peaks"

 

Tear down

 

somehow I missed this post... my bad man!

Jus wait till the 22's are done! IB3 22" will have similar Vd to two IB3 18's but for less cost than the two. He's (Scott) also woking on an auto version...

 

As of yet, every box I have built was constructed out of car. This one is going to be along these lines, and I am struggling with caulk/glue and screw. I am OCD and anal when it comes to this.... so I am hoping for a bunch of links with different pics like these showing how best to put front/back/top/sides together securely. I'm hoping I don't just glue/caulk the hell out of it and set them together.... I am used to flush ands butted up together and putting 2 1/2" screws in.... but when it's the entire height/width/depth, you can't get in there to drill.

Any help is greatly appreciated!


found these pics on the net, not mine:

 

I'm not so sure about driving screws strait into the sheetmetal, nor will I use any 2x6 or 2x4... but here's something a bit off course

 

so I couldn't wait anymore, I decided to use the wood I have to build a quick box to get us through so we could take our time and do the final box as good as we can. so we re-took some measurements so we could build as big as we could outside and slide it in. I didn't calculate anything, just got the max dimensions and made the port go all the way back less 1 port diameter.... I just did it and what a trip, it's right where we were aiming for anyway... we might just keep this box as is unless we do get a 22".... I put the port close to the sub to get more wall clearance, making this box obsolete for a 22"...cuz it is ... was... just a temp sloppy box to get by... well check this, I was aiming for >20 cubes and 15Hz tuning.... and now that I sat down, we have 22 cubes @ 15Hz with a 20" port length. What are the freakin odds?!

I'm keepin it as is. Now the big debate may as well start now, so after I post these pics here ( camera died, I have to go out and take more pics now that we're home... box basically complete in-car....)

After this post I'll post my plans I made 2 weeks ago... showing we are on target as is

taking out factory



considering leaving factory in and putting CD deck in center console



looks good




the driver side power window has been intermitten... switch is going bad... decided to pull the door apart too to replace switch and see what we're working with to put 2 Extremis 6.4's in each door... fiberglass/bondo


















thank god ya can't see my measurements, cuts, or close ups of the final outcome... I was in a hurry to get something in by the end of the day



freezing rain and windy all day



front... close to wall/baffle size to get an idea of what the wall will be like



blurry... shows how close we are, taking up just about everything we can



bottom too



my sausages stickin out... i liked sitting inside the box when it was complete too

 

Thank you very much! Here goes!




BEFORE WE GET INTO THE BIG DEBATE:

I have t-nuts and #10 security screws that do not fit into the mounting flange holes on the sub!!!!

OK, debate on.

I know, I know... "why tune below 25-27Hz in car?!" Music rarely has information below 30Hz... why tune below 33Hz!!! Car's cabin gain can be as much as 12dB/oct from 60Hz on down.... yadda yadda.

For those of you that will NOT be able to just deal with it, please PLEASE just pretend it is 22 cubes SEALED for an IB sub! PLEASE! ( I know you won't but at least I asked) Since you know so much, then you know that all vented cabinets act as a sealed enclosure above the range where the port helps. So me tuning at 15Hz, IF the port is never used cuz my music doesn't go that low, I would be more than happy with this sub in a sealed cabinet of it's size, especially after cabin gain. (not really, but I'm tired of this argument)

I have done this before. The 4th order bandpass design you see in my avatar (some of your forums require too much effort to add a custom avatar, I will include a pic) is with an F3 of 20Hz and an S factor of .7 I designed it from Shavono.com before I learned how to use Bass Box Pro 6 and WinISD Pro. My POS Lanzar amp bottomed the sub before I got to even seal the lid... it's advertised shut off mute did not work after testing.... so the former smashed on the top plate and the coil unwound. I had to cut it open and it became a vented cabinet of 5.1 cubic feet tuned to 19Hz. I had an S15L7 in 3.5 cubes @ 27Hz. I have been there, i have done that, I have heard good setups tuned to 33Hz and 27Hz, deal with it!