Is it possible to go subless on 69 Camaro?

Discussion in 'Car Subwoofers' started by peter_euro, Jan 27, 2005.

  1. peter_euro

    peter_euro Full Member

    Trying to go as cheap and simple as possible using mainly stuff I already got... Not my car and this is in exchange for work on my truck... My thinking is to use my old Lanzar stuff DC64 enclosed in doors as midbass/bass, DC44 as midrange free air in the door plus DCT tweets in the windshield pillars... I need a cheap either 6 channel (if it has 3 way crossover) or 4 channel (using passives between midrange and tweets)... How much power for this set up? The car is set up for street and the guy is not a bass head... No rear fill and no subs... Any help would be appreciated. The car is completely stripped inside. The space in door sills looks pretty hollow for the wiring to go there...

    Here are the speakers I will be using...

    http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...329_16_full.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 27, 2006
  2. geolemon

    geolemon Full Member

    The answer to the question "is it possible to go subless" IMO is:
    Yes by speaker definition, but no by function.
    How's that? :D

    I know you can go subless and still have a good sounding, full-range system (for SQ purposes anyway)... but you will definitely need a speaker that can play loudly enough in the bass range... whether that's officially called a sub or not isn't as important as if the damn things can make bass or not.

    So, in your case, looks like you've got a 5.25" component set and a 6.5" midbass driver? Or maybe that's a 4"... whatever.

    Anyway, I'd use the tweet and 4" with the passive, since they'll probably work decent in terms of efficiency (assuming they are from the same "set").
    And I'd do everything I could to make sure that 6.5" can make bass... but not so low that it can't handle the bass.
    In other words: subsonic filter set maybe way up at 35 or 40hz?
    And make sure the inner and outer door skins are dynamatted and have no access holes left open... that'll make them work as decent enclosures.
    Do those two things, and those are the "magic two" that will have this guy thinking you are a genius. B)

    Amp?
    4 channel, use the passives.
    Way, way way easier to find a good amp.
    Good luck though, finding one that has a subsonic filter to let you make that 6.5" kick ass. Hmm..
     
  3. peter_euro

    peter_euro Full Member

    well, I was looking at the car today and I am just itching to put a nice sub in there, LOL... there is a full pass through behind the rear seat and the trunk is so big, LOL... I am going to excersize self control though and build pods for the front doors and pillars first. Door mounting depth is less than couple of inches so might as well build it out completely on the surface. Hopefully I can fit both midrange and midbass in the same build up... Window crank is so much in the way but the owner does not want to do the power windows, LOL...
     
  4. The_Ancient

    The_Ancient Full Member

    if your "itching" for a sub, not 6.5in will scratch that itch... NEVER GONNA HAPPEN.....


    Like I always say, "Once and Bass head Always a Bass Head" ok I never say that but ....... :D
     
  5. peter_euro

    peter_euro Full Member

    A quick update: I cut out the door pod backs already... I guess I will be squeezing all 3 driver there: tweeters up front and above the other drivers, pointing at the driver, midranges behind and below tweets, also pointing at the driver and finally midbasses behind midranges and pointing slightly up. The midbass will be enclosed with FG enclosures extending into the door, midranges will be venting into the doors and tweets will be sitting in sealed cups... Any comments on this?
     
  6. geolemon

    geolemon Full Member

  7. peter_euro

    peter_euro Full Member

    These do indeed look very impressive. However, considering this is not my car and I am trying to minimize my expense, I am gonna go with the original speakers that I already have... :)