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Help putting together a system

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by Zelgaddis, Mar 12, 2007.

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  1. Zelgaddis

    Zelgaddis Full Member

    I didn't know exactly where to put this, and I know VERY LITTLE about this sort of thing. I went to a local best buy and dukes and the best deals they could give me on entry level systems were $600+. I was just wondering if you guys could help me out a little bit here, and I apologize if this is in the wrong forum, if it is a mod can move it please.

    I'm looking to spend $300-400 and I already have a wiring kit. So what I would need is an enclosure, subs and amp. I plan on going to Dukes or best buy for the install because I know that running a 2-Chan amp to two subs at 2 ohms isn't an easy wiring job at all. If it comes down to it, my dad is a skilled carpenter and I have the material to cover the outside of the box, and fabricating my own box is an option if there is a great deal out there somewhere. I was thinking about buying from ebay, or an online car audio store for some good deals. So any help or maybe pointing me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated!
    AIM: antiheroforu126
    Email: Zelgaddis@gmail.com
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2007
    Zelgaddis, Mar 12, 2007
    #1
  2. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    My first system was around 300 dollars...was the best sounding system ever..even better than mine today lol...i miss it

    Well what are you looking to do???

    upgrade all speakers???

    just add a sub system???

    What kind of bass do you want??

    What vehicle is this in?? I am sure you can install this yourself...Personally I don't trust Best Buy or any big box stores..they do medicore to crappy installs and most don't even know how to set up an amp or make a Proper ground.

    I would recommend building your own enclosure...the end result will be well worth it and sound A LOT better than a premade one.

    I wouldn't recommend buying stuff at Best Buy either...the only good subs there are the Infinities and Type R's...All Rockford Punch subs suck balls, Sony sucks balls.

    You can save a lot of money if buying online but if you can get a deal at the Dukes (not sure if this is a local store or not??) than do it.

    Even a decent 10 inch woofer in a nicely built ported box will sound good.
     
    aznboi3644, Mar 12, 2007
    #2
  3. Zelgaddis

    Zelgaddis Full Member

    Thanks for the quick reply!

    Right now I have a very very nice head unit in my car, my parents bought it for me for my birthday a bit back and it was around $400. My car is a 1998 Mitsubishi GS with stock internals as far as speakers go.

    What I would like to do now is get sub's and an amp.
    Building the box is no problem at all as long as I can find basic instructions on dimensions and materials to use.

    I listen to all types of music, it really varies on my mood and I know there is a massive difference in sound quality/effect on ported boxes vs sealed boxes so I'm not sure where to go there.

    In essence what I'm looking to do is rattle my mirrors as much as I can. I'll be upgrading the interior speakers soon after this, but bass comes first in my mind :lol:

    If someone could point me in the right direction, possibly to an online store or an eBay auction for 2 subs and an amp for the matching price range. And when I say 300-400 I don't mind going a little above 400$ if there is something of high quality available for a great deal.

    Thanks again for the help!

    Just spotted a 1700w Kenwood amp on ebay for 114 + shipping
    http://cgi.ebay.com/Kenwood-KAC-910...ryZ79828QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2007
    Zelgaddis, Mar 12, 2007
    #3
  4. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    I would first upgrade your big three...very simple yet effective upgrade. I upgraded my alternator wire with 4 gauge and grounds with 0 gauge and I have minimal voltage drops at full tilt with a 500/1 and the headlights on.

    We can design you a kickass box that will shake the house and give you dimensions.

    400 bucks is a tight budget to shake as much as possible but it is doable.

    Here is an affordable amp that I have had awesome results with.

    http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14933

    I would suggets one 15 inch driver
    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3411.html
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2007
    aznboi3644, Mar 12, 2007
    #4
  5. Zelgaddis

    Zelgaddis Full Member

    Is that Kenwood amp worth scooping up right now? There are 7 left and it looks like a GREAT DEAL.

    1,700 watts max output Mono amplifier
    850 watts RMS @ 2 ohms
    2 Ohm stable
    500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms

    I know I have limited knowledge about this, but from what I understand thats an amazing deal.

    EDIT
    I bought both the products you recommended, through eBay.
    Amp:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/Kenwood-KAC-910...ryZ79828QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

    Sub:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=180073184420&rd=1&rd=1

    Thanks so much for the help so far.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2007
    Zelgaddis, Mar 12, 2007
    #5
  6. Zelgaddis

    Zelgaddis Full Member

    Zelgaddis, Mar 12, 2007
    #6
  7. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    no problem...that amp is a wonderful amp and is reliable...from my experiences...I've heard other people say they had issues with it but those are most likely user error.

    Now you need this wiring kit

    http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4

    Lol in my explorer there is enough power wire to go from the battery to the back and hang about 2-3 feet past my bumper....should be enough to upgrade some of your BIG THREE
     
    aznboi3644, Mar 12, 2007
    #7
  8. Zelgaddis

    Zelgaddis Full Member

    Wiring kit ordered up, now I just need help on what materials and dimensions to build this box out of, ported vs sealed etc...and the thing I'm the most afraid of, the wiring diagram.

    I just don't want to blow anything up, and I'm not sure if I can properly tune in the system once its installed. Along with taking apart a Mitsubishi face plate for my head unit for the install, and hiding all of the wires so it looks clean, not sloppy.

    $299.98 so far....I like that.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2007
    Zelgaddis, Mar 12, 2007
    #8
  9. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    yup...doing a good job is not hard....it just takes time and materials.

    I just went out and bought some Klein Crimpers and they help out a lot.

    What dimensions are we working with here??? What is the biggest box you can fit in your trunk (not so big it won't fit in the trunk opening)
     
    aznboi3644, Mar 12, 2007
    #9
  10. Zelgaddis

    Zelgaddis Full Member

    Pictures of the car will be up soon so you get a better idea of what you're dealing with.

    Trunk Dimensions:
    48 Inches Wide
    27 Inches Deep
    17 Inches 1/2 Height

    The seats are folded down for the photos, but they're about 3 or 4 inches thick and fold up flush to the trunk covering.

    The only thing that may be a problem is the way the fiberglass/wood/whatever covers the trunk. It basically hangs, and opens with the trunk, do you think it will rattle under heavy bass?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2007
    Zelgaddis, Mar 13, 2007
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  11. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    Welcome to the site!
     
    electrolytic, Mar 13, 2007
    #11
  12. DaveDSMer

    DaveDSMer Full Member

    that must be a mitsubitshi eclipse.
     
    DaveDSMer, Mar 13, 2007
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  13. Zelgaddis

    Zelgaddis Full Member

    Yup, its an 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS

    These are the box dimensions that I've drawn up, and I've decided to go with a ported box because of the deeper bass response for hip hop and rap. My only question now is, where does the port go? Is it just a hole that you cut out? How large should it be?

    Width Height Depth Thickness Interior Volume
    23in 17in 18in 5/8(0.625) 3.32056

    ​


    I've looked up the wiring diagram for the 4ohm load and it doesn't seem that complex at all. Whats really really nice about this amp is the fact that when I get a bit more cash I can throw in another 15 and still have it run at 500Watts RMS Bridged! That would pound so hard.....
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2007
    Zelgaddis, Mar 13, 2007
    #13
  14. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    You have dual 4 ohm coils...I chose this to wire the amp at a 2 ohm load...cleaner power and less likely to clip the amp...just dont use any bass boost and don't go crazy with the gain knob

    A port is no just a hole...I would do a CRX style box with the sub facing up and ports facing to the rear...with that box two 4 inch round ports approx 14 inches long...with the dimensions you said the tuning should be around 36Hz and the box should be fairly loud...especially in a hatch like that

    This tuning is if the dimensions you figured out were internal though.

    EDIT:
    ok i just reread your last post and DO NOT use 5/8 inch thick wood...use nothing thinner than 3/4 inch MDF

    Using your dimensions as exterior with 3/4 inch material...the internal is 3.18 cu ft gross and about 2.8 cu ft net after port and sub displacement...which would bring tuning in at around 38Hz but should be much different than 36Hz
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2007
    aznboi3644, Mar 13, 2007
    #14
  15. Zelgaddis

    Zelgaddis Full Member

    Ok, if I choose to wire the amp to the sub at 2ohms it would be running at 850W RMS (continuous) @ 2 ohms. The sub is rated for 500Watts RMS and 1000Watts peak. Wouldn't that damage the sub by overpowering it?

    Whereas if I were to wire the sub and amp up @4ohms there would be 500W RMS (continuous) @ 4 ohms which is what the speaker is rated for.

    Also, if wiring the subs @2ohms is the best option, could you link me to a wiring diagram to do so?

    Im a little confused with your CRX Box design, are you saying that I should have the sub mounted in the middle of the box facing upwards with the port holes to the rear? To buy ports, would I just visit a local audio shop to pick up the 14in long plastic tubing to place inside the 4 in holes?

    Again thanks so much for your help here, without you I would have never had the option to have this nice of a starting system with room for growth.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2007
    Zelgaddis, Mar 13, 2007
    #15
  16. DaveDSMer

    DaveDSMer Full Member

    well with that sub it is not possible to wire to a 4ohm load. You have to go to a 2ohm or 8 ohm load. He is saying that if you wire it to a 2ohm load you have more power available. So the amp won't be pushing as hard to run the sub as you won't be running it at its rms but more of a bit under it to get 500 watts rms. Yeah you should be able to buy port tubes at a local shop or order them online. Yes about the box as well the sub is going to fire upward while the ports fire to the rear.
     
    DaveDSMer, Mar 13, 2007
    #16
  17. Zelgaddis

    Zelgaddis Full Member

    Ok, well I'm headed to sleep for the night, but I would really appriciate it if someone could link me a design layout/schematic to the CRX box design and the wiring diagram that I should be using for this; what precautionary measures should I take so that I don't blow up my sub here, seeing how its overpowered and all. I still feel like I know and understand so little, but it's coming slowly.
     
    Zelgaddis, Mar 13, 2007
    #17
  18. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    You talking about the Thing with carpet on one side and is yellow on the other side? Just take that sucker out. Thats what i did to mine I get more air flow to the front from the subs.
     
    psycho_maniac, Mar 13, 2007
    #18
  19. Zelgaddis

    Zelgaddis Full Member

    So I've realized that I have a complete and utter lack of understanding of the box that you guys are trying to piece together. Because if the box in question is used, its cubic feet are not even close to the recommended 3-5cu ft ported for the sub. And how did you get the tuning?

    Basically there would be the box, and we're talking from the top down here. From the top there would empty area of box with, going down further there would be wood and a mounted sub. Behind that sealed piece of wood with the sub screwed into it there would be a sealed area behind the sub, and somewhere in this there would be two sub holes. What you guys are talking about here has me confused as ****, and I would be more comfortable if you gave me simpler plans for a Fourth Order/Bass Reflex box with ports. This would mount the sub on the outside of the box and have a much simpler design with the same desired effect.

    If someone could point me the box I SHOULD build with design plans(height, width, depth) with a wiring map I would be eternally thankful.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2007
    Zelgaddis, Mar 13, 2007
    #19
  20. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    A CRX style box IS a ported box

    here is a write up about them

    http://www.teamtoxicbass.com/literature/writeups/crx_box_basics/index.htm

    All it is is having the sub face UP and the ports fire to the REAR.

    Like Dave said...I recommended wiring the amp at 2 ohms for more CLEAN power rather than pushing it at 4 ohms and clipping it.

    Just because an amp is rated to put out 850 watts at 2 ohms doesn NOT mean it will put out that much power continuously...it means it is CAPABLE of outputting that kind of power.
     
    aznboi3644, Mar 13, 2007
    #20
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