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Help building ported sub box :P

Discussion in 'Subwoofer Box and Custom Fabrication' started by audion00b, Oct 31, 2011.

  1. audion00b

    audion00b Member

    Hi! I'm pretty much brand-new to your forums, and I have alot of questions that I am not seeming to find elsewhere.

    Basically: I have already decided to go with a ported/vented sub box. I personally have a sealed enclosure in my car, but this is for a family members who wants it for other reasons. I want to build the enclosure specifically for the subwoofer driver I will be using.

    The sub drivers are the power-acoustik p3-12w (only one driver) http://www.poweracoustik.com/pa2011/subs-P3-12W.html I will be driving it within the rated rms/peak with a mono sub amp, and I have done all of the wiring as professional as it can get. I don't want to cut ANY corners!

    I'm a pretty smart cookie, and I enjoy doing everything myself, but being that I am brand new to building enclosures, things can get overwhelming even though it is/may seem simple.

    The car I will be installing it into is a 2002/3 toyota avalon (in the trunk) and the trunk looks like this. http://goo.gl/sUxoJ


    With the measurements of (35 inches length, 13 inches height clearance, and a depth of 1 foot+) the depth can be lengthed, but Being that I am aiming for a rectangle box, depth is already a little big.

    So, tl;dr I want to build a ported sub box, and all I need help with is calculating the dimensions, and how to port it properly.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2011
    audion00b, Oct 31, 2011
    #1
  2. audion00b

    audion00b Member

    Also, I am currently reading through other posts, and stickies as I am waiting for a reply.
     
    audion00b, Oct 31, 2011
    #2
  3. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    A little more room would be nice, but here we go

    The box will need to be 35-inches wide by 13-inches tall and 13-inches deep. Ya, I need the extra inch. The port will be 11-1/2-inches tall by 1-3/4-inches wide. It will need to be 20-inches long.

    Follow the directions here
     
    Ranger SVO, Oct 31, 2011
    #3
  4. audion00b

    audion00b Member

    I re-measured the space, and this can actually accommodate a 37-wide by 12-tall by 17-deep box. How does this effect the length on my port slot? Will I need to make it longer/wider?

    This sounds very, very workable if those are the only calculations that are required.
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2011
    audion00b, Oct 31, 2011
    #4
  5. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    ! That box is larger than the original, so the port won't work. I'll refigure it out later. Also measure your woofer, 12-inches tall won't work. Your woofers outside diameter should be around 13-inches. So your box will need to be atleast 13-inches tall.
     
    Ranger SVO, Nov 1, 2011
    #5
  6. audion00b

    audion00b Member

    Ok, I am thinking of just making an up-firing enclosure, because I can only fit a maximum of 10-11 inches tall, and 36-37 inches wide. The depth can accommodate the required 2 cubic feet on it.

    http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/117/1221/290610311_large.jpg like that.

    I only need help on 3 things,

    1. How deep should the box be?
    2. Where should I put the port/vent?
    3. How would I design the box?
    4. How would I design/make the port?

    Also, please ignore the attaches image, I do not know how to detach it.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 3, 2011
    audion00b, Nov 2, 2011
    #6
  7. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    The port should always be on the baffle board. In an ideal situation, both the port and the speaker should face toward the rear of the car. Facing speakers and ports in different directions is never recommended. Performance will suffer.

    I have no recommendations for a box built that way. The best I can do in this situation is provide you some free software that can help you

    Download WinISD
     
    Ranger SVO, Nov 5, 2011
    #7