Well guys i got a new car 2003 Cadillac Seville STS 425 Watt Bose 4.0 Surround Sound all the goodies basically the factory system is bad ass, however the sub needs some work, i have my 3 jls hooked up via a line inverter, but the factory 12 inch sub mounted in the rear deck bottoms out. I would usually just remove this for increased porting but i take my subs out every so often to help move stuff and a nicer sub mounted in the rear deck would be nice. Any ideas on a good 12 inch free air sub? Ive been looking at one of these, a Pioneer Ts W302f 12" Heres a little info on the factory system in the car, believe me no highs no lows must be bose applies to all except this car, it has 3 2 inch tweets on the dash, 2 8 inch subs in the front doors, 2 6.5 inch mids in the rear doors and then the 12 inch sub. Breakthrough Car Audio: The '98 Cadilliac Seville - Popular Mechanics
i figured youd hit on ED thing is though im looking for a sub with SQ and SPL and will cooperate and work well connected to the factory amp, not some external one. The factory sub is 100 watts at 2 ohms i believe. I dont need anything outrageous or with high rms and peak power levels because then id need to amp it.
100 watts is perfectly fine for the 13Kv.2/3 IB setups don't need near as much power as using an enclosure
ok ill be sure to check that one out as well too then any more i should look at? I looked and JL hasnt made an awesome free air in a LONG time. Pioneer i know doesnt make good speaks and their subs arent too bad but ive herd their free airs are pretty good for the money. Kicker was another brand i was considering but on a quick search i could only find 8" from Kicker
Viking lol...you bastard Yeah some subs are pretty hard core and can handle rate rms free air. For instance my 19Ov.2, when eD tests they test them free air with over 1000 watts IIRC
I've been here before. I've had to do this before. The customer insisted on keeping the Bose system, no problem. I added a line out converter directly to the factory sub speaker lead. Then we added an amp and our subwoofer. It almost worked. The Bose system DOES NOT like line out converters. As soon as we disonnected it (the LOC) the Bose system began working normal. We needed a line out converter that was invisible to the Bose system. Enter Soundgate. The LOCX is the converter that you need. 2-Channel High Performance Line Output Converter - SoundGate.com No other converter worked, so forget trial and error, I've already been there.
Ranger not sure if you got me. I already have my jls hooked up to the bose via a line out adn they sound fine however when i REMOVE my subs i miss the bass and i want to swap the factory bose 12 for a better free air 12, the factory 12 bottoms out at higher bass levels which is why i think installing a better 12 to replace the factory 12 in the deck would help out!
Must learn to pay better attension. I have done what you want. We added a Alpine amp and a Focal woofer (customer furnished equipment) to Cadillac Bose system a while back. It was an improvement over stock and the reason it stuck in my mind is that I went through 3 different line out converters before we found one that worked right. Anyway in the end it worked and it was an improvement overstock.
All I remember is that it was a Focal woofer. I remember it because the trouble I had with the car and that no one does Focal around here.
Right, the trunk actually becomes the enclosure. But there are a couple of problems, effeciency, there is none. So free air set ups usually require alot of power to make it work right. The other problem is control. In an enclosure we can control the woofers responces. No such control exists in free air. Over Excursion is another problem, but that usually comes from turning the gain up to increase the bass, due to the low efficiency. Not the woofers or the amps fault.