First off hello, my name is Drew and I am from Missouri. I have been into car audio since before I could drive. This will be my first higher end stereo. I know forums get questions like this all the time, so sorry in advance. Here is my current setup. I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Evo X with the Rockford Fosgate MMCS system which includes a 7’ touch screen with nav/dvd/cd(with a hack I am able to watch dvds in motion ), 30gb music server and a RF 10” sub. Doesn’t sound too bad but I definitely want something more, and I am finally in the position to replace it with a higher end system. I am going for a mix of SQ and SPL leaning towards SQ. My plan is to remove the factory amp and sub leaving the touch screen and nav/dvd/cd/music server. First off I am an Alpine and JL guy so I am pretty much set on those products. I plan on replacing the stock amp with an Alpine PDX-4.100 for the fronts and rear, an Alpine PDX 1.1000 to run 2 JL Audio 10w7s(I may end up with a single 13w7 for space reasons) in a custom vented box. I will be using a JL Cleansweep to help with the signal from the factory headunit to the amps. I am going to leave the stock front and rear speakers for now until I save a bit more money and decide what components to get. I will probably go with Boston Pros; I had those in my Porsche and liked them. I am also going with Alpine PDX amps because I had two of those in my Porsche and I like the fact they are small, stackable and sound nice. Along with a couple hundred dollars worth of Dynamat, that should be it. Anyway… My questions are: Will I need to upgrade my charging system such as battery and or alternator? I will probably need a cap regardless, what size and brand, Stinger 1 farad? Will the Alpine 1000 watt be enough to power both 10w7s? According to JL’s site, that should be just right, 500w per sub. I have competed in DB Dragracing before and know what 145db sounds like. I hit that in my Saturn with 2 12w6s. What db level can I expect from the 2 10w7s with a properly tuned box and the Alpine 1.1000? I know this is a very hard question to answer so I am just looking for a ballpark. Can I expect low 150s or high 140s? Ok, I think that’s all the questions I can think of now so thank you in advance and I will keep you posted in the coming weeks. I go and check out the subs this weekend. Drew
the first upgrade should be what is called the big 3. that will help some. a lot of my competitor friends run extra batts instead of caps. the cap cant keep up with the current demand that a large amp will need during transient passages. i would think with 1k and 2 10's in a solidly built box you can do mid to low 40's. trunk cars are a little bit harder to make loud, you just need to compensate with more power as opposed to a hatch vehicle. at comps ive been louder than some guys running twice the power in trunk vehicles. its the transfer function of the hatch that helps me out. so..... BIG 3, and a big batt in the rear should help you out.
Ok, so I do need an extra battery and the big three or can I get away without a battery? Would a single 13w7 be louder? I don't think it will but still want to ask.
I have decided along with buying an Alpine PDX 1000 for the subs to also buy an Alpine PDX 4.100 for the fronts and rears. I plan on keeping my stock fronts until I save a bit more money and probably will buy some Boston Pros or Focals, something higher end for SQ. My question is, the shop I went to this weekend recommended that I don't buy a JL Audio Cleansweep but buy the uber expensive($499) Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.2 for more control over the system, I guess you can tune these using a Bluetooth enabled device. What would you recommend? I know JL makes different models and I know nothing about them, CL441dsp, CL-SSI, and the CL-SES, which model would be most appropriate for my situation and what do each do differently? Or would you stick with the RF 3SIXTY?
I have the clean sweep in my car, it is about 2 years old. when I bought mine there was only one available. It comes with a calibration disc, you put it in the cd player and it does its thing. I almost bought the 360.2 but was way more expensive and I really didnt need all the bands of equalization. The shop is right about having more control over everything, but anytime you want to make a change, out comes the laptop or whatever. It is really not user friendly unless your in a competition and sitting there with you laptop hooked up to it. You just need to ask yourself if you really need all the things the fosgate has to offer. Dont forget to look at the Alpine unit with imprint technology, that is a nice unit as well.
Alpine head unit with Imprint? If so you can read my first post and see that I want to keep my stock head unit.
you can look into an audiocontrol lc6i or something like that. they make great units for keeping your stock heads.
I am going to create a new floor and wood like to wrap it in either vinyl or microfiber with a suede feel. What color from this site http://www.midwestfabrics.com/index.php do you think matches our trunk interior the best? What product would you use. I plan on making an amp cover using OEM paint, Phantom Black. Not sure what I will make the amp cover from. Need something smooth so the wood grain will not show through the paint. Here is a picture of the trunk.
Just to let you know the Alpine unit with imprint tech is not a head unit, its a processor like the 360 and the cleansweep, you will be able to keep your stock HU.
I have decided to go with a single JL Audio hd900/5 which is Front 100W RMS x 2 @ 4Ω (11V - 14.5V) 75W RMS x 2 @ 1.5-3Ω (11V - 14.5V) Rear 100W RMS x 2 @ 4Ω (11V - 14.5V) 75W RMS x 2 @ 1.5-3Ω (11V - 14.5V) Subwoofer 500W RMS x 1 @ 1.5-4Ω (11V - 14.5V) For a total of 900w. The shop I went to this weekend to get an estimate told me that I need at least a 10 farad cap for this setup. I plan on running the stock electrical system. First, I thought caps are kind of like snake oil, don't really do anything, second I thought the rule was 1 farad for each 1000w. Can someone advise? Thanks
Here is an email from JL customer support. From what I have read, I totally agree with what he said and it makes sense. You won't need the cap, they act like incredibly responsive batteries, very fast discharge, it's just that if there is a voltage concern in the vehicle, your money is much wiser to be spent on upgrading the charging system, (alternator and battery), than it is on a capacitor.
He makes very good sense. If I were you, do the big 3 in atleast 4 guage and wee what that does for you. Should be good enough. cap=CRAP