Can Anyone Please Help Me Design A Sub Box?

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by texcon, Apr 25, 2004.

  1. texcon

    texcon Full Member

    Please, please, please!!! OK, this should be simple for you audio vets. I posted this on CAF, but I have all but given up on that place, so I am hoping one of you can help me out.

    I have an "old school" 12" Solobaric - the round version. I bought it in 1996 or 97, but it amazingly still works fine and sounds great. It actually has very nice SQ, at least to me. Anyway...I have it in a 0.88 cu ft box (1 cu ft without the sub) and it will be powered by a Tantrum 1200.1 - so it will have tons of headroom (maybe too much, but let's not focus on that ;) ).

    The 0.88 cu ft enclosure is factory spec, but it might not be the best for my needs. I cannot locate the TS parameters anywhere, but I am hoping they are pre-installed in some software one of you guys has. If not, I can get them from Kicker.

    The sub will go in a 1997 2.5 TL (about the same size as an Accord from that year). I primarily listen to rock/metal, with some jazz and pop mixed in. There will be NO rap coming from this sub, if that helps. I want to keep this sub in a sealed enclosure, per Kicker specs.

    So my request is if the 0.88 cu ft box is the "best" box for my musical tastes, power supplied and vehicle it will go into. I can easily build a box, so getting a set of plans would be fantastic. Thanks in advance for any help you can lend and let me know what other info is needed.
     
  2. luvdeftonz

    luvdeftonz Full Member

    If staying sealed, 1.25 cubes, after displacement, would work well. It will give you maximally flat response and require little eq'ing once thrown in your car. Kicker has it's specs for the old school solo's (I had the 8, which sealed, provided surprisingly potent output down to about 35 hz in .25 cubes :) ) pretty right on. 1-1.25 is all you really need for the 12. Beautiful sounding subs back then, as well as now.


    As you noted, watch out with that amp. I have it. It could obliterate the sub if setup incorrectly :blowup:


    B)
     
  3. texcon

    texcon Full Member

    1.25 cubes of displacement seems like a lot for the power I have to send this sub, but then again what do I know!! Correct me if I am wrong, but wouldn't more power to a sub imply the box needs to actually be smaller? I know on the later generation of round Solobarics (circa 2000), Kicker said to make the box 0.66 cubes rather than 0.88 cubes for greater power apps.

    Right now the sub is in a 1 cu ft box before displacement, so I may continue to use this box and build another one down the road.

    About my amp - I bought it thinking forward. I don't think I will have this sub for a long time, so I bought an amp that could handle a bigger sub. But for now, this amp will be more than enough for this Solobaric.
     
  4. luvdeftonz

    luvdeftonz Full Member

    I had the my Tantrum 1200.1 powering my 8" solo, which handles less power than the 12. You just need to set the gains accordingly. 1400-1500 wrms from that amp will surely kill that sub quick. Just scale back, considerably. If your HU has a sub out level control, scale that back, also. You can never have too much power available, you can only use too much power. The amp gains, and the HU sub output level, are your friend...don't forget to check for other bass affecting eq functions on your HU, too. Set all of them to flat before adjusting the gains and sub out level. You shouldn't need any type of boost :)


    BTW, 1.25 cubic feet gives the sub system a Q of ~.7. If you make the box much smaller, you're going to give response an unnatural boost (in the upper bass region). This may or may not be desirable.
     
  5. texcon

    texcon Full Member

    Thanks for the info - you are right in that I want as flat a response as possible. I don't want any "bass boosting" effects via the amp or a modified box.

    The gains on the Tantrum range from 4V to 200 mV, and the HU I want has 4V preouts. It however has the sub level control, so I will have to take advantage of that so I don't destroy my solo. I really like the way this sub sounds and want to keep it as long as possible.

    I think I will build another box at 1.25 cubes and see what response I get. At worst I can go back to my original box. Building a box is no problem for me, but let me double check one thing - should I make this box as close to a perfect cube as possible? A 1.25 cu ft box as a perfect cube would have an interior edge length of ~1.08 feet. My current box is a perfect cube, so I'd assume keep with this same design, but just extend the edge length of the new box.
     
  6. luvdeftonz

    luvdeftonz Full Member

    Box shape won't matter. You can make it octagonal, if you like :lol: In fact, if you make this box "look" better than you old one, but don't like the sound of the 1.25, just use some blocks of wood, books, etc...to decrease the volume until you achieve what you are looking for. You could even build the box a bit bigger (1.5-1.75 cu. ft. giving better low bass extension at the expense of lower power handling) and use the same method until you achieve the desired frequency response. If ya' use t-nuts, removing the sub every time you want to decrease internal volume will be a snap. Just a thought...

    :)
     
  7. texcon

    texcon Full Member

    Those are all very good ideas. It would be easier to start larger and add decrease the volume until I find a box I am happy with. I would likely make it a nice perfect cube for simplicity sake. I like things clean and simple. Thanks for the ideas!
     
  8. texcon

    texcon Full Member

    OK, I got the TS parameters for my Solobaric. Without sounding too ignorant, these are for the Solobaric 12" a-series sub. Can any of you with know-how see what might be the "optimal" box for me? No offense luvdeftonz, just trying to get as much feedback as possible ;) The tech I spoke with at Kicker said not to go over 1 cube, which contradicts what others have suggested. Thanks for any additional help!

    Fs - 16.7
    Qms - 7.49
    Vas - 8.165
    Xmax - 0.335
    Fd - 79.21
    Qes - 0.327
    Qts - 0.313
     
  9. The_Ancient

    The_Ancient Full Member

    Driver Properties
    Name: S-12-4a
    Type: Standard one-way driver
    Company: Kicker
    Comment: Solo-Baric series
    No. of Drivers = 1
    Fs = 16.7 Hz
    Qms = 7.49
    Vas = 231.2 liters
    Mms = 4.885 oz
    Xmax = 8.51 mm
    Sd = 79.21 sq.in
    Qes = 0.327
    Re = 3.38 ohms
    Le = 0.589 mH
    Z = 4 ohms
    BL = 2.79 lb/A
    Pe = 600 watts
    Qts = 0.313
    1-W SPL = 87.7 dB
    -----------------------------------------
    Box Properties
    Name: HO
    Type: Closed Box
    Shape: Prism, square
    Vb = 0.466 cu.ft
    Qtc = 0.869
    QL = 7
    F3 = 57.57 Hz
    Fill = heavy

    ----------------------------------------

    Box Properties
    Name: HO 2
    Type: Closed Box
    Shape: Prism, square
    Vb = 0.466 cu.ft
    Qtc = 1.117
    QL = 7
    F3 = 56.04 Hz
    Fill = none
    -----------------------------------------

    Box Properties
    Name: Sq1
    Type: Closed Box
    Shape: Prism, square (optimum)
    Vb = 1.503 cu.ft
    Qtc = 0.707
    QL = 6.907
    F3 = 43.38 Hz
    Fill = none


    -----------------------------------------


    Box Properties
    Name: Sq2
    Type: Closed Box
    Shape: Prism, square (optimum)
    Vb = 1.172 cu.ft
    Qtc = 0.707
    QL = 6.957
    F3 = 46.61 Hz
    Fill = normal

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


    Top 2 are High out Put, one with Heavy Poly Fill and one with None

    the Bottom 2 are Sound Quality Boxes (qtc of .707) on with Typical Fill and one with none
     
  10. texcon

    texcon Full Member

    Thanks for that man! Soooooo, to ask the obvious, the Vb volume on the last two boxes is literally the volume of the enclosure, right? Are these volumes inclusive of the volume of the sub (which is about 0.12 cubes)?
     
  11. geolemon

    geolemon Full Member

    Well, two things that are worth noting, in terms of "what to look at when designing a box":

    One hell of a low Qts.
    One hell of a low Fs.

    This is the essence of an isobaric pair.. er, I mean solobaric. :p

    They doubled the motor strength (or increased it anyway) compared to a normal sub. When your motor strength increases, your Qts decreases... smaller Qts indicates higher motor strength.

    They also doubled the moving mass of the sub (or increased it anyway) compared to a normal sub. When you increase your moving mass, you decrease efficiency - but of course, you've increased motor strength, which does compensate at least to some degree. When you increase moving mass, you drive down the resonant frequency. Hence, the very low Fs.

    There are 2 trains of thought regarding "what do I look it, to determine if my sub is most suitable in sealed vs. ported?"

    One train of thought is to look at Qts. A Qts around 0.45 or so is considered the middle-ground... the sub working equally well sealed or ported (or you might look at it as being slightly compromised in each ;) ). A lower Qts would indicate best suitability in a ported box. A higher Qts would indicate best suitability in a sealed box.
    By virtue of its Qts, you'd reach the conclusion that you should stick the sub in a ported box and nothing else.

    Another calculated number is EBP (you might have seen it in WinISD?). It takes into account both Qts and Fs. Because the Fs is so low, it really compensates for the ultra-low Qts, as far as the EBP score goes. Where the Qts alone indicates "Don't even think about sealed!", the calculated EBP works out to 53, which actually is just about the exact middle-ground, indicating suitability in either ported or sealed.

    Personally, with all that motor strength - I wouldn't seal it, either. I'd port it.
    I think in this case, due to the extreme Qts and Fs values we are looking at here, the EBP might be a little optimistic of a calculation.
     
  12. The_Ancient

    The_Ancient Full Member

    not according to Both winISD and BassBox Pro


    Both recommend NO VENTED box

    as Does Kicker, Kicker infact will not warranty the old Solo's that were places in Ported box;s if i recall correctly
     
  13. texcon

    texcon Full Member

    Michael, you are correct. Kicker VEHEMENTLY states in its user manual not to put this model Solobaric into a ported/vented enclosure, explicitly saying to put this into a sealed box. I am not saying whatever Kicker puts into writing is gospel, but they were specific with the type of box to use with this sub. But what bugs the shit out of me now is the discrepant views I am hearing on what to do with this sub. But that is what makes this hobby so fun.
     
  14. geolemon

    geolemon Full Member

    Well, possibly their concern is something unrelated to T/S specs...
    Perhaps the cone used on that generation of Solobaric could not withstand the additional forces inside the enclosure that a ported box presents... but honestly, that almost seems ludicrous - particularly with a cone that's got a higher mass to it - you'd think thicker cone = stronger cone. Likely that's true.

    Perhaps it's related more to some aspect of it's motor geometry and excursion concerns... being at risk for overexcursion damage that can happen when you tune a box relatively highly and then play ultra-low frequencies... but then again, every sub suffers this.

    Perhaps it's just a marketing concern...
    When Kicker first came out with the Solobaric, it was marketed as using an uber-tiny enclosure, and for being a more SQ-oriented sub.
    "Small box subs" were a new thing back then... the Solobaric wanted to prove that it was "like an isobaric, our enclosure is so small".
    A ported box is larger than a sealed box... I didn't model it up, but possibly it's disproportionately larger than the sealed box Kicker recommends... which easily could be MUCH smaller than this sub's natural Qtc=0.707 enclosure - because the Fs is so low. ;)

    If this is true - I'd call or Email kicker's tech department (or possibly Polecat on CAF) to find out "Why?"
    If it's something real - they should be able to tell you very easily and clearly. ;)
     
  15. The_Ancient

    The_Ancient Full Member

    you missed my Other Point, In Bassbox Pro, "Meter" in that meter is a Blue Line, on one side is says Vented, on the other it says Sealed,

    when you slect the Solo12A the bar is ALL THE WAY to the sealed side, meaning the sub is not recommended, BASED ON TS, to use a ported box

    What Calulation it used for this I dont know, but it is been very accurate for me...
     
  16. texcon

    texcon Full Member

    OK, I PMed polecat and asked him about my dilemma. Hopefully he can shed some light on the subject. I will also call the Kicker tech dept and get some feedback from another source. For all I know, I spoke with polecat and didn't know it (I spoke with a guy named Ernie a few days ago getting some TS parameters).
     
  17. texcon

    texcon Full Member

    BTW, let me ask a "stupid" question

    Michael, you gave me these specs:

    Box Properties
    Name: Sq2
    Type: Closed Box
    Shape: Prism, square (optimum)
    Vb = 1.172 cu.ft
    Qtc = 0.707
    QL = 6.957
    F3 = 46.61 Hz
    Fill = normal

    The Vb is the enclosure volume AFTER sub displacement, right?
     
  18. The_Ancient

    The_Ancient Full Member

    No, that was not PoleCat


    Pole Cat is Tracy (damnit I forgot how to spell his last name :oops: )


    Anyway the Sub does not really displace enough to be a factor either way in sealed apps, a Change of 25% or more in oftened need to make a audible perforamce inpack
     
  19. texcon

    texcon Full Member

    Sounds good - just out of general curiosity, how does one read the volume given by that software? Is that the volume with or without sub displacement? I will just build the box with that volume AFTER sub displacement and add bracing to eat up excess volume, if necessary.

    Also, this is what Polecat PMed me earlier today:

    ...for more output, I would do a larger, yet compact ported box...will offer great SQ and have more output being a ported enclosure.
    Even tho we said not to do ported, the parameters show they do quite well ported....I would do it...more output, yet good SQ.


    I am thinking I will play around with both, but first build a sealed box. The problem with building a ported box is not the build, as I can build just about anything, but it's designing a box. Can I solicit some more help on designing a possible ported box for this sub?