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Box For eD 11Ov.2

Discussion in 'Subwoofer Box and Custom Fabrication' started by DatDude08, Jun 10, 2009.

  1. DatDude08

    DatDude08 Full Member

    Got the sub this morning and I may work on the box if I can get a design. My max dimensions are 17x19x12 (WxDxH). I want to build the ported design which they recommend either 1.0ft^3 @30Hz or 1.2ft^3 @35Hz (this one preferrably). The port has to either be on the side or top which is where I am having issues. If I put it on top then I can't get the right tuning, however, I can get it if on the side, but will it be as effective on the side as on the top w/ the sub?
     
    DatDude08, Jun 10, 2009
    #1
  2. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    I wouldn't go with the recommended...I would go larger...around 1.5-1.75 cu ft net.
     
    aznboi3644, Jun 10, 2009
    #2
  3. DatDude08

    DatDude08 Full Member

    Ok, what about the port?
     
    DatDude08, Jun 10, 2009
    #3
  4. DatDude08

    DatDude08 Full Member

    How about sealed? Which would you recommend for this sub? I'm looking more for SQ as opposed to SPL, but I won't it to be able to get loud at times, but not for regular listening.

    I think I came up with a better design, what do you think?
    15x24x13 (I rechecked my measurements)
    Port Width: 2"
    Port L1: 21.25"
    Port L2: 5"
    Total Port Length: 30"
    Box Volume: 1.611ft^3
    Tuning: 33.646Hz
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2009
    DatDude08, Jun 11, 2009
    #4
  5. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    The sealed box is always a good choice. They tend to perform very well.

    Your dimensions might work for a ported box. The only problem that we run into is the port length. The longest port (4-inch) we can put in there is 15-inches long. That would put our tuning around 36 to 38 Hz, which should be OK.

    If you really wanna get your tuning around 34 Hz we could run a 3-inch port. It would need to be around 10-inches long. We might be able to get away with a 3-inch port because we are dealing with a smaller woofer.

    I can test port velocity, but I need Thiele/Small Parameters (the specs) for that woofer.
     
    Ranger SVO, Jun 11, 2009
    #5
  6. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    if you do use a 3" port a simple 1/2" round over bit on some end caps would make some simple aeros.
     
    aznboi3644, Jun 11, 2009
    #6
  7. DatDude08

    DatDude08 Full Member

    This is a rectangular port not round, Ranger.

    How much volume would you recommend for sealed? eD says .5ft^3
     
    DatDude08, Jun 11, 2009
    #7
  8. DatDude08

    DatDude08 Full Member

    Could somebody just recommend one or the other, I'd like to build this this weekend, but I want it done right.
     
    DatDude08, Jun 12, 2009
    #8
  9. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    ported will still have excellent SQ. 1.5 cu ft tuned to 33Hz with a 3" round port 10" long
     
    aznboi3644, Jun 13, 2009
    #9
  10. DatDude08

    DatDude08 Full Member

    Ok, I'll see if I might accidentally have some 3" pvc laying around. Its nice to have a dad who does construction :p, but would the slot port that I used above work in case I don't have any?
     
    DatDude08, Jun 13, 2009
    #10
  11. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    I like PVC ports because they are easy to work with.

    Also your box and port will work. Just remember that L2 is the port height and L1 is the port length. Personally, I like your box better (except I would tune slightly higher) because your port area is more than the 3-inch round port.

    I vote for your box
     
    Ranger SVO, Jun 13, 2009
    #11
  12. DatDude08

    DatDude08 Full Member

    Well i think its probably too late Ranger. I've started the box and I don't believe I have enough extra for the port. Also the PVC port will be on the same face as the sub whereas the other wasn't going to be so I think it will be better. I just gotta figure out how to install the port cause I can't get a drill in it to screw it in. What should I do?
     
    DatDude08, Jun 13, 2009
    #12
  13. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Predrill three holes (1/8-inch) in the PVC before putting it in the box. Countersink with a larger bit (by hand). Now put the port in. Now I use 3/4-inch drywall screws. To screw them in, I use a philips tip, 1/4-inch socket and a ratchet to force the screws in.

    They also make a right angle drive for screw guns, but if your only gonna use it once then.....
     
    Ranger SVO, Jun 13, 2009
    #13
  14. DatDude08

    DatDude08 Full Member

    Now I feel stupid :p, I'm not great at thinking outside the box. Thanks, I still have to cut the baffle holes but the build has gone smoothly.
     
    DatDude08, Jun 13, 2009
    #14
  15. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    sweet,then its time for pics
     
    pedro quiroga, Jun 14, 2009
    #15
  16. Lazy Eye

    Lazy Eye Full Member

    yeah post some pics man
     
    Lazy Eye, Jun 14, 2009
    #16
  17. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    I use the 1/4" ratcher idea for tight spots too Ranger.
     
    aznboi3644, Jun 14, 2009
    #17
  18. DatDude08

    DatDude08 Full Member

    I'll try to get some tomorrow.
     
    DatDude08, Jun 14, 2009
    #18
  19. DatDude08

    DatDude08 Full Member

    Well I cut out the holes for the port and sub and everything fits but I cant get the pics off my phone. Dunno why but the card reader wouldn't work so you guys are just gonna have to wait and see :p
     
    DatDude08, Jun 15, 2009
    #19
  20. DatDude08

    DatDude08 Full Member

    Ok I want to tune this box up to around 35-36Hz, how much should I cut of the pvc to get this?
     
    DatDude08, Aug 13, 2009
    #20