Battery, batteries, and those damn wookies

I'm not sure which will last longer, but if you're talking about putting one battery under the hood, it needs to be an Optima RED top, not YELLOW. The Yellow tops aren't meant for starting engines.

 

I pay extra for a Pretty Top??????????????????????????????????


Get ethe Die Hard or any other GOOOD battery like a Instersate, Exide etc

 

yellow tops can be used as starting batteries.

when i had a die hard gold i had some dimming at moderate volume...switching to a red top made it go away at the same volume but i still had a little dimming at max volume.

 

I reccomend red tops, interstate, AC Delco (I use AC Delco Platinum Professional batteries with NO issues of dimming or other problems and I run akmost 2000WRMS of pure AB power ). I saved a little read I wrote a while back with regaurds to the use of deep cycle batteries for starters... The tone is of frustration, but it is not directed toward you.

By the way, I am AC Delco certified in L1, L2, L3, and 3 starting and charging studies. They are Electrical systems, simple and complex as well as Starting systems and charging systems...

 

Very Interesting and quite informative. Thanks....

So is it worth it to buy a Red Top for a starter battery or will any other 'good' battery do?

PS I posted pictures for you last night

 

Chris, any good battery will do. I do highly reccomend AC Delco, Optima Red Tops or Interstate, as they are the best out there (by the by, Motorcraft is using AC as a supplier for some batteries, the green eye is AC Delco). Don't get some off brand, the drain of our high powered systems will wear a cheap battery real quick. The heat generated through discharge and recharge is rough on batteries, especially cheaply constructed ones.

 

Well I learned something new tonite...so thats always good. Whats the price of the Red Tops? they are cheaper than the Yellow top right? but by how much generally? BC I had planned on doing two yeloow tops until to tonite! so im going to have to re think that one I think....

 

yeah, about $30 less around here.

 

you do realize Optima and Die hard as well as about 15 other Brand names are all Johnson Batteries right

 

Yes, i'm aware of that Seth, however, everything i've read claims yellow tops are not good at all for starting engines.... That was my only point.

 

no I did not...

But I am kinda partial to them bc they do look nice and Im not an all based on looks person but under the hood in a nice install they can look good.

And honestly I havent done a whole lot of research on batterys but what other battery combo would work just as well if not better? My friend told me he can get the yellow tops for 130 new he bought one and was thinking about getting another.

 

Yes, i'm aware of that Seth, however, everything i've read claims yellow tops are not good at all for starting engines.... That was my only point.[/b][/quote]
Not you silly... Hazard is a Chris too :lol: :lol: :lol:

Somewhat, however the diehards with the green eye are AC delco as well... They are farmed out to differant Mfgs. Also, the requirements set forth by Die Hard for their batteries are less than that of the batteries made with the AC logo. So, while the same company makes the batteries that doesn't mean they are the same final product. You are correct though, I believe that there are ~5 Automotive battery producers in the world.

 

You do need an isolator. Otherwise if one battery has slightly more energy the other battery will pull that. The batterys will keep fighting one another even while the car is off causing premature death. The isolator isolates the batterys from eachother and prevents the fighting.

 

You should run an isolator. Cost is dependant upon Alt size.



There is my isolator and second battery. It is a 240 Amp isolator, I have 120 amp alt but I wanted an isolator with more capability, just to be safe.

Isolators do just what the name implies, they isolate the load on 1 particular battery (to prevent the other from being drained) and they isolate the charge to the battery that needs to be charged, eliminating overcharging of the other battery. I do not suggest the continuous duty relays/solenoids that are also offered as an isolator. They are junk, don't last, allow overcharging, they burn up and start fires.

 

:unsure: So are you saying that you would not recomend the stinger relays? And with the isolator, you match the amperage with that of the alt. or with what the stereo pulls? For ex. my stereo may/will pull 300+ amps but my alt may only be a 200ish amp alt. (pending on what i get) so do i get a 200 amp isolator or a 300 amp isolator? How much would you guess an isolator in my situation would be? :unsure:

 

I'm running a die hard silver bat. great battery, IMO. I would have gotten the gold, but had to spend the least amount of money possible.

 

Match it to the alt Chris. I suggest a little leaway, and the 240 offering is what you should consider with 200 amps. I doubled my alt output, just to be safe. The isolator should run ~$150, try NAPA.