2800RMS, electrical upgrades

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by 6.5ldiesel, Nov 14, 2010.

  1. 6.5ldiesel

    6.5ldiesel Full Member

    I have a rockford fosgate T2001-BD amp on (2) 12W7's in a ported box tuned to 30 hz. I have a rockford fosgate P400-4 running the 4 door speakers. (NO CAPACITOR)

    I have this all installed in a 96 chevy truck with the 6.5L Turbo diesel (no power options) with the 100 amp alternator, and (2) 1000CA batteries under the hood, I also have 0 gauge wire running to the t2001 amp, and a separate 8 gauge wire running to the 4 channel.

    My question here would be, would a High output alternator (220 amps, 110 @ 800RPM idle) be sufficient? Do i need a battery in the back aswell? (would have to modify to make a battery fit..)

    With the stock alt, and the 2 1000 amp batteries my voltage dropped i seen to 12.2 V idling on a hard bass note..Would this alt keep it from dropping below 13.5 volts?

    Help would be appreciated
     
  2. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    couple of things here, you want this thing to continuously pound while at an idle? If so, then a HO alt would be the thing to do. As for voltage drop at idle, are you measuring it at the amps or at the batteries? There will be a drop slightly higher at the amps as compared at the batteries. ( even the largest gauge wire will show a voltage drop)


    Would the new alternator stop the drop below 13.5? not sure. Even if you are showing 12.2 the amps should produce rated power due to regulated power supplies. If you are continuously cranking the audio sytem up at max levels then a new alt would be needed. Id it just the occasional crank it till your ears bleed to show off for the ladies and friends, then i would not see a need for it...It largely depends on your listening habits and discipline in turning it down when the voltage drops to excessivley low levels...

    just somethin to think about
     
  3. ericj

    ericj Full Member

    I'm pretty sure the BD amps use an unregulated power supply (input from 9-16VDC), so the input voltage would change the wattage output. I could be wrong, though.
     
  4. 6.5ldiesel

    6.5ldiesel Full Member

    I was measuring the voltage right from the battery, I know the amps will produce rated power but the 2.2 voltage drop is not very healthy on my current alternator..The volume doesnt have to be on max for it to hit 12.2 volts, 1/3 the way up-1/2
     
  5. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Since you have 2 batteries already factory installed, you are at a bit of an advantage here. Anything we can do to keep voltage above 13 volts is a good thing. Even with a high ouput alternator, this may not be entirely possible if your system has the capacity to pull more RMS current than what the alt can put out. But again, most folks dont listen to the system at full blast all the time!

    In my opinion, an upgraded alt would be a wise investment and help your batteries and amps live a longer life. A few things also i would like to mention, not all aftermarket alternators are what they claim to be. 100 amps at idle....its a rare thing. especially when hot. Alternators are inheritantly VERY innefficient due to manufacturing processes and keeping costs down at the factory. 50-55% is a realistic figure. A large portion of aftermarket alternators are little more than a rebuilt stock alternator. So beware!

    One more thing....read the "big 3" section in the automotive electrical, be sure to do that first!!!!!!!!!!Very important!!!!!!!!
     
  6. ericj

    ericj Full Member

    Have you checked the voltage output of your current alternator? I believe they typically output between 13.5 & 14.4 volts while the engine is running to charge the battery. If your alt is closer to 13.5V, then adjusting your voltage regulator or getting a different alt or regulator would probably help. Unless I'm totally wrong. :lol:
     
  7. 6.5ldiesel

    6.5ldiesel Full Member

    14.5, only puts out 100 amps, it keeps up (goes back to 14.5 volts between bass notes) I just dont want to cook it...
     
  8. 6.5ldiesel

    6.5ldiesel Full Member

    Ive done the big 3 actually, added to the factory 0 gauge that was already there (yes there was 0 gauge from the factory)

    The cost of this alternator is roughly 1/3 more then a stock one, should do better then the stock one..(im guessing)

    Also my engine never even sees 180 degrees, so it wouldnt get "as hot" as on a regular car...It also doesnt see the RPMs of a car either..2k-2500 RPM is really laying into the throttle, should i use a smaller pulley or will that just cook it when i do get the RPMs up once in awhile? Trying to not make an ass of myself here..
     
  9. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    When i was reffering to "hot" i should have been more clear. I was talkin about the temp of the alt....sorry bout that. The more current it has to produce the hotter it gets and the output goes down. I probably would stick with a factory sized pulley. The crank pulley, i would imagine, would be sized to run everything within specs... If ya can get a higher output alt for 1/3 more, i say go for it.