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its called voltage drop...it means your electrical system is too weak for your amplifier. Please list all relevant information. Make and model...
Pedro after you build this trio of 8's I'll find time to design a front loaded horn for a couple of these isoloaded.
150 on the TL...Not likely. Prove me wrong though
G3 next time screw in atleast" from the ends and space 4" apart...seems like your port should have had more screws...good work though
I'm not sure...my friend used to have two of the older Type E's on a 400 watt rms Coustic 401DB and that sh!t was loud. It is entirely possible a...
roughly 8 - 10 cubes my single 12" t-line is 8 cubes external
I'd take a 16Ov.2 in a t-line over the memphis...the PR is tough but the 16Ov.2 has more thermal and mechanical power handling.
I wouldn't ruin such a nice box.
school and ****...I've felt like **** for the past two weeks...I really have no desire to get on AIM much anymore...I think things are going to...
it's a newer model...beats damn good for a 250 watt rms sub. If the power is clean it can take 400 watts easily. I got it in a trade for my...
I've always loved the Type E's...they are one of the best bangs for the buck.
haha...damn you got me. I went to Murray for the weekend...had to get the hell out of town for a bit. I'm doin alright...busy as hell really...
how much for the sub alone???
Fi Q 18....or the AA Arsenal or Havoc 18. Mach5Audio MJ-18M Sound Splinter RL-P or RLS 18 eD 19Ov.2
and if you are looking for loud as balls...i wouldn't choose it for sq at all
depends on how much you want to spend and how much room you have
one 3000D wouldnt do it at 2.67 ohms
Type X subs only come in dual 4 ohm so nominal 2.67 ohm load. Also 2000 watts is way more than they can handle. A pair of strapped Sundown...
downfiring is a great idea
not really...the enclosure would have to be tall as hell to keep the same volume and tuning withing the max width and depth.
