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thats fine...but I would rather have a more round/square port than a long skinny one.
I gave a Type R12 1200 watts rms in a t-line...never bottomed out even when playing 10Hz tones at full power.
I won't be needing the box for the Blue Thunders...just the subs. that should cut down on shipping a lot. 47715 zip
that isn't rattling...its probably clipping or an air leak. Type R's have little to no motor noise at all.
thermally blow or mechanically?? G3 what other TWO 12 inch subs can you get that are better for 70 dollars?
Hifonics HFi12s are great subs for the money...you can get two for 70 bucks
these subs will rape your legacy subs...Legacy is a very cheap crappy brand. Hell even two Hifonics HFi12s will beat out legacys...i've heard...
birch is fine...you just have to brace more. Also its really fuking expensive
cabin gain is so different vehicle to vehicle. An enclosure that is loud as balls in my truck could be not that loud at all in anther vehicle....
damn...I am getting insurance money....I want those MTX Blue Thunders
smooth seams...no sealant is necessary as Ranger said. Glue is enough. I use glue to seal the joints too though.
that amp will only put out around 1200 clean watts. I don't like Solobarics...I would rather spend a little more and get a couple of these....
you are accused of spam...what is your response?
Yes...anything alternating current (AC)
this amp is crap
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=320-290 It shows you the waveform...you play a test tone and turn up the gain...you can...
That can be arranged...its whatever you want it to look like
tuning is undecided. What do you want that is different from your current enclosure?
Its ok i'll make the call for you. Usually enclosures begin rolling off around 40Hz but the cabin gain makes up for that.
cccullen what is the usuable frequency response you want?? how low do you want it to go before beginning to roll off? What are you goign to be...
