For the same price you can get a Duralast Gold 1000CA 875 CCA 160 Reserve (I think, haven't checked mine in a while) 3 YEAR WARRANTY COST NO MORE THAN 70 bucks
As I have stated before, always look for the highest reserve rating.....CCA's dont mean shyte. No single amp will ever pull enough to tax the CCA capacity of a battery. The higher the reserve, the better.........period. A couple of six volt batteries are not a bad way to go.....especially ones designed for agriculteral equipment.....they are servicable (you can add distilled water to them) and they are designe(usually) for the harsh conditions of farm life. I have had excellent results with this type of battery. I use batterys from the local farm supply in all my vehicles. tend to last as long if not longer than many others. Hell, went out today to see if my old ranger diesle would fire up after sitting 3 months in the winter weather......I had to crank on that SOB for about 4 30 second intervals to get her to light off....battery did fine. and its about 5 years old.
okie dokie! Batteries are more expensive here, i will probably be lucky to get a descent one under $100.00 with taxes. I will look around.
I see a ton of dry cell batteries on ebay, some made by stinger, is there really any difference, or would a descent regular battery be good enough.
well I favor deep cycle batteries in high current situations...the plates are thicker and batteries can take the abuse better. People like dry cell, gell cell, agm, whatever SEALED battery there is because they are smaller and pack more energy than a regular battery of the same size...and because they don't give off toxic gases when charging and discharging
I'm thinking about going ahead and doing the Big 3, then adding a second battery.. Would it be better to add a second battery than to add a capacitator to your car, and will adding the battery stop lights from dimming?
First upgrade your big three...then see where your voltage is at then. Adding an extra battery will help for high current demands and will make the voltage drop less. How low is your voltage dropping right now with the system full blast??
Well I'm not exactly sure what my voltage is sitting at. But all my lights dim in the car, and the head lights, inside the trunk, my dash board lights don't even work, my clock dims too.. I'll see if I can find a voltage meter and check it.
thanks for the advice old thread still helping. power inverter hook up. http:// http:// http:// http://
i have been working on my truck system for some time, starting from the most disgusting basic setup ever, progressing to O/1 cables everywhere, 270 amp alt, and 5 channels in my single cab. i am runnning a 1000/1, and 450/4, hooked to HIVI components and a 13w7. this is all coming off a walmart everstart basic battery. voltage drop is starting to really **** me off..... i have been through about every problem and diagnostic i have heard of with noise, melting fuse blocks, cable running, input, ect... i went out tonight, i am seeing at idle 14.1 volts everywhere, no drops from alt to amps, it drops as low as 13.2 when jamming pretty hard checked at the batt. in theory, at max possible levels i am pulling (1500 watts) or so and my mono does clip with voltage drop, and i see voltage drop when only the 4 channel is running. i have a toolbox, and plenty of O/1 and 4ga. wire laying around, and im thinking of running a second battery. i have a connection with an AGM battery distributor, i could get one for 100 buck, ish that would be plenty of capacity for my little system, and a backup for cranking. this is kind of an ill thought out rant, but i am wondering do you guys have experience with this kind of amperage pull, and the voltage drop associated with it? there is no more i can do as far as (the big 3), i have replaced everything with O/1. i read at the beginning, the relay is required but dang! pricy little piece. i will have to get back on here later when i have more time, discuss my noise issues. i do have a youtube channel with various old system videos, they are pretty embarrassing to post here though..
hey welcome to the site, great place lots of help here, everyone has voltage drop issues i think, thick as possible wiring and a second battery will definitley help. I remember driving and watching the voltage go under 12 volts lol not good for the amplifier, watch that clipping too thats when stuff fries, try not to let it run under 12.8volts. Hows the alternator charging wire thickness, thats pretty important
i seriously did replace every single wire with O/1 cable. so, alt charging wire is O/1 with solid copper welding lugs, and 250 amp fuse block in-line. i bought one originally, but it melted the whole thing into a huge mess trying to move that much current. so, i made one, no screwing around. ha
question on the pac200.... will the pac200 accept large 1/0 connectors??? the o rings on my wires are quite big... also to you have a post on the big 3??