I was putting a new head unit in my car today, I put the harness in and have all the wires lined up properly. I have done it before and sure I am doing good there. Where I am having a problem is my power line is getting no power, I have tested it and its not getting any power whatsoever to the red or yellow lines of the harness. I have checked my fuses and everything on them shows to be fine as well. Any ideas of why I have lost power? I had my head unit in there before working just fine right before I went to do the install.
Not saying you do not know what your doing but sometimes the power wire in some cars are notthe ones you think. If you let me know what car it is years/ make/model I have a huge inventory of Care wire color for just about every car out on the market today and I will post the correct color/ wire code for you so that you can check and make sure your correct onthe colors. I bought a whole program on Stock car wire color codes for the business I am going to start for Alarm and Car audio. in the near future.
my car is a 1996 chevy s10 blazer, 4 door and my new headunit is a jvc kd-r530 and I understand what you are saying, when reading I saw that blazers are possibly using the orange for constant. not really sure
Try This : 1995-97 Chevrolet Blazer S-Series Stereo Wiring Constant 12V+ Orange Switched 12V+ Yellow Ground Black Illumination Gray Dimmer Brown Antenna Right Front Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors Left Front (+) Tan Left Front (-) Gray Right Front (+) Light Green Right Front (-) Dark Green Rear Speakers 6" x 9" Side Panels Left Rear (+) Brown Left Rear (-) Yellow Right Rear (+) Dark Blue Right Rear (-) Light Blue Or This : Constant 12V+ Orange Switched 12V+ Yellow Ground Black Illumination Gray Dimmer Brown Antenna Right Front Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors Left Front (+) Tan Left Front (-) Gray Right Front (+) Light Green Right Front (-) Dark Green Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Doors Left Rear (+) Brown Left Rear (-) Yellow Right Rear (+) Dark Blue Right Rear (-) Light Blue
thanks a lot man, ill be trying this after I get out of class. I will get back to you on how it goes.
Lol, well I had it all wired properly. I had thought so. My problem was when I pulled the old HU out and got some slack from the harness behind it so that I could splice and wire the new harness, I had accidentally unplugged a clip into the car end of the harness (if that makes sense) but anyways with further inspection into the depth of inside my dash I found a clip dangling with no home. I found its home and bam, everything worked :]
Bravo Sorry I could not help but I am happy you found the problem and its fixed. Bravo on the detective work
Thanks man, and regardless your input was appreciated. Any type of response is better than anything. I got a question though, wonder if you could help here. When setting up my HU I was looking at the LPF on it, any clue on how I decide what frequency to put it at? my options are (Low 55hz Mid 80 and High 120)
To add a tidbit to what I've read about my last question. My door speakers and tweeters all have a range of 70hz+. Well my door speakers are 70hz-20khz (I beleive) and my tweets are 3khz-20 (also not 100%). But seeing my door speakers at a min for 70hz my guess is to set the lpf on my deck to 85hz. Considering anything above that should obv go to my speakers n tweeters
I am thinking that the LPF switch is all about the pre outputs. Not the regular speaker hookups. I am not really sure but I am thinking that is what that is. I will look it up and give you a more informed answer.
Well I am talking about the LPF on my head unit, not on my physical sub amp. Any input is appreciated, I think it sounds really good at the moment though. And with my new 6.5s and tweeters im hearing sounds ive never heard before. It is truly amazing the difference
Ok nothing to do with this question so I'm really sorry but I feel stupid I can't figure out how to post a question of my own!! Any help?
