solo x is finally mine!!!

well theres nothing wrong living in a small town

but heres the kicker book for a 12 solo x in the book none of there design permit any thing over 2500 watts max power so remember this when buying a amp but I was running a 18 solo x On my 6500d at .5 ohm before impedance rise and it really didn't get loud till I ran it to its limits. So me running it will be different from you running it because you will have a different car different amp the sub could be facing different.I tell you a quik story I had my 2009 t3 tsns 15 in a 6 cubed box gross tuned to 37 hertz sub back port back on my ss 6500d in a 03 impala.I sold the sub to my my buddy he ran it in a 2007 honda civic in a small box 5 cubes gross on a audioque 2200d sub up port back. His car is audibly louder then my car was with less power and a smaller box.So if you take anything from this it should be design and vehicle trumps power and equipment.

http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/files/2007 SoloX 10-12 Sub g01 Web.pdf

 

this^^


just because the sub says it can handle 2500 watts doesn't mean you NEED to run all that power.

you said you have a good batt under the hood, and a good batt or two for the back.

im telling you, when you run ass tons of power in a car you will run into some sort of issues.

im betting you that in the right box for the car and sub. a 1500 watt amp will be way more than enough, and well within your current budget.

that 0 gauge you want will not be cheap. keep the 4 gauge and run slightly less power and have an everyday street jammer.

i demoed my truck at a show today and kids thinking you NEED thousands of watts were blown away when i told them " nope, its only about 900 rms maybe less due to impedance rise". .... " nope just regular car audio speakers, not pro audio,..... yes only 300 to 8 speakers"


if done right, even modest power and plan of attack is all you need. that and good speaker placement. lol.

 

yeah

Just because I'm running a soundstream xxx 6500d and get crazy subs doesn't mean I couldn't get louder if I designed my system different. The gain for all the money I spent is in my opinion not worth it.If I could go back I would have did something different. But I'll tell its been a fun ride going through so many different pieces of equipment that you can't remember and seeing what most he subs on the market can do.But its also been and expensive process.You would be surprised that most the money I spent was not on the equipment in my car it was the power supply the dynamat the wood for multiple boxes the wires.I'm at $1250 in just wire and dynamat plus wood sub amps headunit line driver gm converter. Its crazy

 

arguing my case lol. the ap30001d is 1ohm stable that is if you do not bridge it. the amp puts out 1500x2 at 1ohm (not bridged)and 3000x1 at 2ohms(bridged), i have the book.

 

pretty sure a cap can't kill a battery.

 

thought they were to save your battery?

 

Are your terminals on the battery clean?

I'm sure there's a autozone os advanced auto in your area,so get it jumped and take it and have your electrical and charging system checked out.

 

I would go strait to one of the two parts store he listed and have them check it out. I'm sure you had this in mind any way.