Hello Folks! I am in a small bit of trouble. My car has a box that was made into the car. 3 12 in subs. I know I can wire like this: or BUDGET IS tiny. My question is I am going to go with some cheaper SVC subs. maybe http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013CE3JS/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=A3LJ5WMKNRFKQS I can get them for a hundred bux total. and my current amp is http://www.amazon.com/Crunch-CR1000-2-Vehicle-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00368CHQI . I know I am prob going to have to buy a new amp. Ive seen 4 channels 4K lanzar for like 120 shipped. and mono lanzar 4000 for 140 shipped. My question is which way is best to wire the subs to get most power out of them. If i get the 4 channel id leave one channel unplugged. Ive searched and found so many different things and now am totally lost. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Other problem . I have some cheap sony speakers 6.5s in the car now. The speakers are wired to where the amp used to be. I was thinking of this sony to run the speakers L http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sony-4-3-2-Channel-Xplod-XM-GTX6040-240-Watt-Car-Amplifier/12016335 . Or can I use the 2 channel crunch ? Let me know what the best options are.
The 12-ohm load would be a bad idea. Your amp power would be dropped WAY down because of the high resistance. The 1-ohm load can be done as long as the amp can handle it. The amp will need to be a Class D amp, but remember, not all class D amps are 1-ohm stable. How about three 8-ohm woofers in parallel. The end load would be 2.66-ohms. Much easier to find an amp thats 2-ohm stable. And your not limited to Class D.
good advice Ranger. i would also add this. Your current crunch amp seems to be a little powerhouse. To save more money i would let this amp run the ENTIRE system...highs and lows using passive cross overs...far cheaper than another amp and done right, will sound as good as or better than a multiple amp/electronic x-over system ( i love single amp sytsems!)
Thanks for the advice guys. I really do appreciate it. all the diagram makes it seem like I am running one wire for parallel . Is this really the way to do it ?
Parallel - all +'s are connected together; all -'s are connected together You'll could technically get away with 2 (one for positive; one for negative) wires and just strip off insulation where it connects to the speaker terminal, but it'd be much easier with separate shorter wires.
so just to make sure I understand. Take wires and wire them all to negative. Then wire one wire to each negative sub. Repeat for positive. Is this right ? And I would do this and run it all under " Bridged " on the amp ?
what if its not ? i think its only 4 ohm stable ... Ground Pounder Series 2-Channel Amplifier RMS Power Rating: 4 ohms: 125 watts x 2 chan. 2 ohms: 250 watts x 2 chan. Bridged, 4 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan. Dynamic (Peak) Power Rating: 4 ohms: 250 watts x 2 chan. 2 ohms: 500 watts x 2 chan. Bridged, 4 ohms: 1000 watts x 1 chan. Max power output: 1000 watts MOSFET PWM power supply No remote bass level input LED power/protect indicators Bass boost (0-9 dB at 45 Hz) Soft start sound Damping Factor: 180 Channel Separation: 80dB Variable Input Level Control: 0.2V-5.0V Protection (DC, short, thermal, overload) Full range line output Unbalanced input (RCA Jack) High level inputs Illuminated Crunch badge Variable high-pass/subsonic filter (60-1,200 Hz) Variable low-pass filter (30-250 Hz, mono 24 dB/octave) Frequency response: 30-1,200 Hz, 3dB whats the best way to wire and get most power?
If your amp isn't 1 Ohm stable (which it doesn't loook like it is). You will fry your amp. I stumbled on this website explaining alot of stereo tech in layman's terms. http://www.bcae1.com/ If you want to understand why, check it out. An excerpt from the above site states: "......when you connect too low of an ohm load to an amplifier. Lower ohm loads can allow the amplifier to produce more output current (which results in more output power - to be discussed later) but too low of an ohm load will cause the amplifier to fail. The amplifier expects to 'see' a certain minimum resistance (ohms) to assure a limited maximum current flow at maximum output. " I think its because most power supplies can't handle that continuous load.
Thanks Klink! Ill read that in a couple minutes when I get to work. Eric, is that a usable amp? Everyone keeps telling me that its all fake watts and it puts out like 100 rms? will 3 4 ohm dvc still yield 1.33 ohm load in par ?
