2 15's 0r 4 10'

Well a buddy of mine had 2 American Bass HD 15's in an Aztek on an American Bass 150.1 and it was pretty loud I think he did a 145.6 on the termlab, then he got rid of them and just put in 4 American Bass 10's (can't remember the exact model) on the same amp in a ported box and the 2 15's was a lot louder.. but I know that all of this could vary with the different brands, and it's mainly all in the box design as everyone else on here will tell you.
What brand of subs are you wanting to get?

 

go dc audio...two lvl 4 15s should do the trick

 

2 - 15's will have more cone space (~350 square inches) then 4 - 10's (~315 square inches). Not sure how that translates into power and quality, but the 15's will have more surface area.

 

Well whatever you decide to go with build the box yourself man, you'd save a lot of money and I'm sure that you would be happier with it than if you had someone else build it for you..

 

you'll have better sound with the 4 10's, and more bass in theroy, because the coans have less resistance, so better sound, and more acuate, and so much suface area being pushed = power, so idk i'd think 4 10's would sound good.


as far as getting the boxes the right size and tuning...you don;'t need to get to into it...just google the subs you pick and find out what others have done. i'd say for sealed for a 12, is usialy 1.2-1.5, idk wht for a 15, the displacment of a 12" is about .11 CF, and the displacment for a 15 is like .2 or something like that, it's all dpendent on the sub of course, these are things to be considered in the size of the box, it is to be taken out of the total number you have.

i have a 1.48 box on my 12 polk sr 124 dvc, and i have a displacment of .11, so do the math and thats how much space the sub has, whitch is right in the recommender size whitch is between 1.2-1.5


the discritpion of the suface area of the sub is pretty much what it sounds like..imagine a 10x10" peice of paper, you wave it, it moves more air than a 5x5" sheet, but the 5x5" has far less resistance, whith gives makes it more ideal for hitting sharper notes. larger, better with lower notes, also to be considred is the frequency response time. genraly 28-100 mhz sub will be for thump, like the L7 from kicker 12" has a frequency response of 28-110 i believe, where as my polk SR has somehting like 28-250 mhz range. this is a large clue into what the sub is designed for, the L7 will thump like you wouldn't believe,but will have a muffled tunnel sound, where as the polk SR 124 will have a sharp thump, that isn't as powerfull but cleaner, and blends better with mids.

8" sub drivers = for spacific mid range\low notes
10" sub driver = sharp lows, with very little thump
12" sub driver = slower strikes, with larger thump, but still not to much resistance
15" sub driver = genraly for pure thump, you won't find many this large that are ment for SQ.


for box types, ported will have add tunnel noise and will be the most efficiant while not loosing any quality, bandpass will be the most efficiant, but you loose alot of quality because your bouncing the sound waves all around, and sealed enclosures are the smallest, and offer the cleanest notes, but again, with the right tuning, you can get the same out of a ported box that you can with a sealed box. but it's much harder.

 

dude... ive had 15s and 10s and 12s.... 10 are no more faster than the 15s. its all on the box. and what kind of setup youre running. my brother had mtx 9500 15s and it was killer on SQ for rock and anything you threw at them and to add to the cake they were in a 4th order bandpass... thats for you evi... id go out of the norm... with something dc audio, fi audio... sundown just to show ppl up. id go simple with 2 15s for wiring and box dimension purposes...

 

heh...you really honestly believe a 15 can hit every note a 10" can hit as clean? physics just woudln't allow such a thing..or they woudln't bother making different sized subs...idk what your friend did, but it wasn't a standard SQ set up. thats the problem with car audio "well my buddy did this, and it sounded AWSOME! " isn't a true tested logical theory. in fact, you most likly only would know barley anything your friend might of done to get to these results..not to say this is your exact situation but it is a very common problem in car audio, it's how people end up doing stupid **** and wasting money.

 

not my buddy... MY BROTHER. weve done sealed... free air/IB... ported... bandpass with all the different sizes makes and models of subs... in different vehicles. with proper power and enclosure anything is possible.

 

heh, with some puddy fill to cover screw holes, and a some sand paper you can just spray paint it or paint it, it's all dependent on the time you want to put into it.

as far as space.. subs aren't very tricky to get right, long as your box is good, the area becomes almost irelevent unless your dealing with something like a tiny coup or something, your case, makes no diference, you just need a x amount of space for the sound waves to full extrand and reverberate, whitch isn't hard since the sounds waves are so long they can go anywhere for quite a distance. and they show little distortion, whitch is why you can put a sub in your trunk. where as a 3" driver in a 3 way system, will pick up your most importent freuqncys, which ours ears are EXTREMELY sensitive to, whitch is why placment on mid range on a 3 way is so impotent. our ears hear the lows the same no matter where they come from, long as they're in a resonble distance. and not over bearing or to weak, can't over power your pseakers or be over powered by your speakers, you want everything to balance nicely. but it sounds to me like your just trying to go big, whitch is perfectly fine, just try and keep a balance or you'll end up with a ****ty system, you can't go big in one department and expect it to pull everything else along with it.

 

heh shoudln't take 2 years to do all that, i could do most of that with a case of beer and a 3 day weekend


your set up sounds pretty good, those sub's should sound awsome, and those speakers are nice, but if i were going big i woudln't of went one up and got the ZR650-CSi's. especily since'; they're the front stage, and you'll be hearing most of your highs from them. I'd put 2 8's in the rear over those c2's.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13228_JL+Audio+8W3V3-4.html

could put a alpine PDX 4.150, bridged to 2 channels, at 300 rms each side. and be rocking the mid range hardcore. tehe

 

don't put 2 ways in the rear, i did it. just not worth it.

 

I would like to add to this discussion. Not thread jacking... Eviling, jay knows his stuff. I also agree with him. It's ALL in the enclosure. I have heard 18s play rock and hit every note accurately. I have also heard 10s hit a 143 @ 29Hz and sound really nice and clean doing it. You believe what you want but all of us here have had this discussion before, discussed our experiences, and decided it is all in the box.

 

oh and I wouldn't angle tweets towards the front. Think of a concert. You have sound coming from in front of you and that's the way it should be. In the rear you just want fill. That is so you feel engulfed by the sound. You don't want to overpower the front, instead just add to it and surround yourself. Look for a set of coaxials that have a tad lower sensitivity or turn your gain down on that channel. You don't need components in the rear though. Save your money there and add to your front stage where it really matters.

 

Where are the woofers going to be mounted, just sitting on a seat in a box or mounted in a hole in the side of the van? You are right about the space inside the vehicle changing the sound, (transfer function) Also where you have the woofers, sealed in a trunk, in a hatchback bouncing them off the back window, in the back of a suv, facing foreward or backward. You can take a awesomwe system from 1 car and install it in another and it will sound crappy. You didnt mention 3 12's, just had to throw that in there.