Orion HCCA 2100 Competition Amplifier

use 3/4 inch MDF..denser and less resonant

 

1 inch MDF is even better...carpet doesn't affect sound....only looks

 

yeah...its fuked up...gotta mail it back.

They are paying for the shipping and everything though...I'm ****ed but there wouldn't be a use for it as I haven't gotten to build any new boxes yet...weather has been uber weird and last week it was in the 30s and it is in the middle of SPRING!!!

 

this is for THE VIKING.


i was searching online and found your posts, so i joined this site so i can talk to you about my amp, you seem to know enough. i have the Orion HCCA 2100 comp, and my sub is a Digital Design 15" 9500 series, tripple stack magnet, and power is rated at 3000 watts, i think it was peak, i doubt its RMS. the sub is bridged at 2 ohms. the specs i found online indicate that the comp version of the amp can run ar 1 ohm and delivers a power rated at 1600 watts. now how acurate is this, since i cant find the comp manual off of the orion website. i dont want to take my chances and damage the amp. its already an antique. hope to hear from you soon, thanks for your time

 

ALFA unfortunatly viking hasnt been on in a long time.

your amp is 1 ohm stable but only for short periods. i.e burps for compitions.

it is rated at 1600 but is capable of much much more.with the right eletrical upgrades that amp can do at least 2500 or so if i remember correctly

 

The Digital Designs 9500 series can handle a lot more than rated power.

 

the right electrical upgrades? first off the car is an 03 bmw 530I, i have 2 batteries installed blue top optimas, and im using an old PG cap rated at 15 farad. im also runing an Audison vrx chrome shadow 4 channel amp cant remember the model number, and focals all around, my highs are pefect. i get enough mids and highs out of focal components. but my bass is horrible. im using a ported box that i built myself. it barely fit in the trunk. but the sub sounds like it lacks power. what else do i need to do to upgrade, i really cant afford an alternator. im broke for the moment. also im using the stock HU, and i removed the factory amp. im also using a high and low converter from audiocontrol. the factory setup has a stereo and an amp that works as a crossover/soundprocessor, since the stock Hu has 4 outputs high voltage, and then plugs in the factory amp, with then has 10 outputs, front tweeter, mid and high, then rear tweet and full range. its not bad for stock. so what else do i need to do?? if i can play the amp at 1 ohm for 3 hours im fine, i dont drive more then that.

 

hi thanks. yeah i got the amp so i can tear **** up. i had converted my spare tire well into a box and that wasnt a good idea since i now have 2 cracks that are close to a foot long each, these subs were not ment for sealed boxes lol. oh well. i was trying to avoide weight since i drive like a maniac on turns.

 

that amp may not survive for 3 hours at 1 ohm.hell elecro has to run a bazillion fans to keep his amp from catching on fire.lol

that amp at 8ohms will out power alot of newer amps these days.so at even 2 ohms it will give you more than enough power to run your subs.

 

well it sounds like crap. the sub dosent move as much and when it dose it sounds even worse. i have a soundstream rubicon 1002 thats rated at 1000 watts at 2 ohms, im gonna try it out tomorow. if that soundstream pushes the sub harder, then i have a problem with the amp. or this sub needs more power.

 

i also have another amp but i dont have the room for it in my trunk, its a soundstream turantula, before soundsteream was sold. its an original very hard to find, and it works, but the strobe lights are broken. now this amp is huge. and i have 2 soundstream class A 5.2 but there only 500 watts each.

 

What enclosure is your sub in??

Hopefully not sealed