Adding a Second battery

Discussion in 'Automotive Electrical' started by TheViking, Nov 19, 2006.

  1. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Whenever possible, use the top posts with a quality terminal, i like the marine type the best........Screw those damned gold/platinim plated POS!!!!! Use a lead type terminal, they make the best contact......
     
  2. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Yeah i ditched my platinum terminals...not enough holes for all my wires. Went and got some heavy duty expoxy coated marine terminals for my battery under the hood

    Why are side posts good??? Because I was thinking about using the side posts for the battery ground and power...and wire the amp to the top posts...or vice versa.

    Is 4 gauge from the front to rear big enough, Viking, or should i get 2 gauge??
     
  3. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Top posts tend to hold better than the side posts in my experience. But yes, you can do exactly what you are reffering too, i have done that in the past also and good luck withat method.

    4awg should be fine, if you have the extra cash for 2awg wire, sure, go for it. Bigger is always better! at least that is what the women tell me!:D
     
  4. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    haha...well at Rural King they have 2 gauge welding wire for 1.69 per foot...so I'll prolly do that.

    Also in the first post you mentioned jump starting your own car...how would you do this??
     
  5. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Good deal on the wire!


    If you want to jump start your car from the back battery, you need to have the relay engaged even when the key is in the start position, this can be accomplished by putting a switch on the wire that triggers the relay, the other side of the switch goes to a constant "hot" source. If the main battery is dead, leave the car off, flip the switch, and wait a minute or two, then attempt to start your car (with the switch still on) This essentially parrallels the two batteries while the car is being started. It IS hard on the relay contacts, so dont crank it over very long! yoiu will be exceeding the current capacity of those contacs! They will take it for a short duration, but not constantly. I hafve personally done this in one of my cars when i forgot to shut off the headlights.
     
  6. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    lol....good deal.

    I'm sure I'll sooner or later forget to turn off something
     
  7. smartmlp

    smartmlp New Member

    I have a question, is it safe to use this technique with two different kinds of batteries? I want to keep my stock lead-acid battery but add a second small dry-cell odyssey battery, will they both co-exist?
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2007
  8. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Yes, the use of a relay as described will allow the use of 2 different types of batteries without any problems.
     
  9. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5287.html

    Great thread, makes me want to go get another battery and a relay even though i don't need it. lol. I got an aftermarket 130amp altenator and 1200 cold crank amp battery installed when i got my car, got the proper gauge wire, so this would be next. One thing viking, the link you gave for the relay it says it is a relay/battery isolator.
     
  10. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    I'm a little confused, both batteries will be hooked in parallell so do i use my 4 gauge thats running to the trunk already, hook that to the positive of the battery in the trunk. then hook the amp off of the battery in the trunk? Grounds to the frame obviously, how about the altenator charging wire, do i have to run that to the trunk also?
     
  11. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Alt wire goes to battery positive up front...just hook your power to the battery positive in the trunk...I'd ground battery to the chassis with some 2 or 0 gauge wire...
     
  12. audiolife

    audiolife Full Member

  13. audiolife

    audiolife Full Member

    double post
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2007
  14. audiolife

    audiolife Full Member

    double post
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2007
  15. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    MODEL PAC-200
    MOBILE AUDIO RELAY AND BATTERY ISOLATOR
    200 Amp Continuous Power Handling

    The proper way is to run the power wire from the alternator straight to the trunk!!!!

    HAHA This should be good:)
     

    Attached Files:

  16. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    The relay will handle 200 amperes on a continuous basis at 12 VDC and 300 Amperes in rush peak or surge.
    Mount the relay between batteries as an isolator or in the main power lead servicing the mobile audio system,
    amplifiers, light bars or any other equipment requiring on/off control.

    INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:
    The two small terminals are for switching the relay on and off. Either one of the small terminals should be
    connected to chassis ground or other ground location and the other terminal to switching power output. Switching
    power must be between 10 and 16 VDC. The relay coil draws less than 1amp when switched on.
    Battery or main power leads use the two large terminals. Either one may be incoming power. Fuse power leads as
    close to battery or batteries as possible.
     
  17. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    DO NOT hook the wire going back to the rear battery at the alternator! (as shown in your pic) Go to the Front battery positive......
     
  18. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    lol, i will, just thought it was an interesting way of doing it.
     
  19. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    There, that's better!:)
     

    Attached Files:

  20. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Body on frame style vehicles have ground straps connecting the bod to the frame...many people don't upgrade these wires and thats why they have poor grounding.

    I upgraded mine and noticed an improvement