A Sub for my Soundstream??

top form eh???? should have seen my the day after ne years eve!!!!!


With that amp being 2 ohm stable, you want a single 4 ohm driver for it.....

As for the box design, This has been discussed many atimes i believe, but sealed is not "tighter" sounding than a vented box. At least in my opinion.

As for the woofer, perhaps take a look at your requirements as far s the box goes, figure out what kind of box volume you will have and THEN find a woofer that will accurately play in it. There are lots of good brands out there.

 

ok first of all. If you bridging 2 channels to make 170 watts of RMS power.. that isnt a whole lot to work with. second, you are pretty much stock with a single 4 ohm driver as when you bridge the channels you are only 4 ohm stable. Since you are going for a SQ sub. I personally would recommend either an Infinity sub or an Ascendant Audio Assassin. (AA Assassin would be my personal favorite for SQ)

 

Hey OJ....here is my two cents....

I take it you are gonna run your components off of two channels and bridge the other two for a sub, giving you 170 watts of power available??

I am with Viking on the 4 ohm driver.....As far as an enclosure (sealed vs ported), in your case with decent power (not a ton)...I would definintely recommend a tuned ported box (they are more efficient and you will get more SPL with less power).....I would take Dave's recommendation on the AA Assassin......I am gonna go out on a limb here and mention something about SQ and your situation......I think you are looking at a pretty good combo for that scenario....

In my opinion, the thing that makes subs sound their very best, is the quality and set-up of your mid bass drivers...It sounds like you have a good combo with your present speakers/amp situation....I like to get the most out of all other speakers first, then add the sub at the bottom.....Now does that Soundstream have high pass for the components?? if so, what I would recommend is to use your ears and listen to the low end in those components (when you are ready to tweak in the sub) and set your high pass to drop off freq that your components will not duplicate (this will save wattage trying to reproduce bass lower than they can REALISTICALLY put out)....Whatever range your high pass falls into, use that as a starting point for the sub's low-pass.....Bring your sub level up to a point of enhancing the bass, then stop...It should give you a nice balanced sound....

If you have stuff with a lot of nice mid bass (A good choice here, is to listen to stuff where Paul Mcartney plays bass....a song by the Beatles called "and your bird can sing" is a good song to hear what I am talking about...he is a very melodic bass player and will move around the neck alot) If the low notes really ring out good and the upper bass notes get lost, you have a hole in your freq. response.....I try to low pass my sub (home and car) as low as I can (that is highly dependant on the mid bass and bass drivers)....I want the sub to enhance the low end......it sounds like you are on the right track to good SQ

Willy

 

Dual coil sub will NOT enhance your power...your amp will put out 170 watts rms at 4 ohms bridged...so whatever sub that will show the amp that load will do fine.

joe I was wondering where you went...i see you got that Soundstream amp...how's it working out for you??

A dvc sub is not better nor worse than a single coil sub.

And 170 watts is plenty to work with.

Read this real quick if you think 170 watts isnt much
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php?t=32819

Video-90 watts and two 25 dollar subs = 139Db I THINK THIS IS IMPRESSIVE
http://edesignaudio.com/edv2/ednews/home/blog.php?id=57

How much do you wanna spend on a sub??

 

I'd recommend that sub...I've heard it myself as my friend used to have some. Very tight and clear response. Not the greatest SPL but decent and the sound quality was amazing for being in a small sealed box

 

Hey OJ......

The higher sensitivity will definitely be a benefit.....What it will do is allow your sub to play louder with less amp power.....Basically what the 85 vs 90+ is this....The speaker when designed/tested it will produce that amount of sound pressure (volume given in db) with 1 watt of input (or 2.83 volts)...They use a measurement microphone placed at one meter in front of the speaker...They run a test tone (not sure of the frequency they use) in and measure it.....The difference between 85 and 90 is pretty significant...I believe that a 6 db increase will sound, to our ears, to be twice as loud...This will allow your amp to run with more headroom....Transient response will be better because when the sub has quick bursts of signal the amp will have wattage left to give and not clip...Cleaner clearer bass and less heat on amp..

True sub-bass is usually 40hz and down.....Now with the exception of synth music, some rap, techno-type stuff, there is really not alot of signal below 40 hz (in music)....Most bass guitar, kick drum and rock guitars live in the 60-100hz range. Alot of rap deep sounding bass is really a higher frequency than you would think.....A freq. response is given and it is usually charted on a graph...It may say 25-300 hz, but it may drop below flat (zero line) at a much higher freq (like 35,40 or 50)......Most 20 hz stuff and around there is something that is felt and not heard.....but you would need a sub that had that response of let's say 25-200 hz +/- 2db in order to reproduce it.....Now in a car, alot of road noise and vehicle operating noise will mask 30, 40 hz....If your amp is trying to reproduce it, it will be wasting energy on freq. that you will more than likely not hear or feel....So in other words, I would not fret too much on the low end of the response being 25 versus 30 or 40...
If possible try to look at the graph and not just the numbers....If you get a sub with good response at 50, 60 that will give you good bass. I have seen home subs rated to reproduce 10 hz, but if you look at the graph, 10 hz may be coming through at 18 db or more BELOW the zero line.

Any sub by a reputable company is gonna have good USUABLE freq. response. The big things to look at are the vc impedence, sensitivity and the size box recommended, mounting depth, etc....

This is my two cents anyway....

Willy

 

Um....25kHz is in the tweeter range

subwoofers are normally crossed at anything below 100-120Hz

 

that will work....but I'm just not a fan of Pioneer low end subs.

Also almost any subwoofer can play down to 25 Hz with the right enclosure...but 25 Hz is useless when listening to music

 

out of those options. Get a MTX sub with a single 4 ohm voice coil.

 

I would get anything below the 5500 series...the 4500 series are just overpriced for what you get...the sub has almost no excursion and the magnet is so little...I feel like I could throw it 50 yards.

Audiobahn is crap