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Kicker 750.1 amp...what kind of subs/box?

Discussion in 'Subwoofer Box and Custom Fabrication' started by eazy, Oct 8, 2006.

Page 9 of 75
  1. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    [​IMG]

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    I checked BOSCH's website. It says I have a "Reman Alternator w/Police Option 135A" so I guess I have 135 amps...now what does this mean?
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2006
    eazy, Oct 20, 2006
    #161
  2. Rodny

    Rodny Full Member

    It is 135 amp Alt.
    All the police cars I seen they have a bigger Alt because of all the extra equipment (lights, siren, radios etc.......)
    That one will work better then the original!!
     
    Rodny, Oct 20, 2006
    #162
  3. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    lol now will it work well enough to power a 1000 rms watt amplifier without upgrading anything else?
     
    eazy, Oct 20, 2006
    #163
  4. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    [​IMG]
    There's my battery.
    [​IMG]
    I've still got the tsunami amp kit from my last stereo. I checked the cable, it's 4 gauge. I'm not sure what that piece is; it's about 1 foot away from the battery.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2006
    eazy, Oct 20, 2006
    #164
  5. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Well with either the 1000.1 or the 1500.1 you will need 0 gauge wire

    A bigger battery will not help much as its sole purpose is the only start the car...upgrade your big three with 0 gauge wire first then see where you stand
     
    aznboi3644, Oct 21, 2006
    #165
  6. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    How much will it cost to do the big three?
     
    eazy, Oct 21, 2006
    #166
  7. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Haha...all it will cost is for the length of wire, ring terminals, and an afternoon

    I'd say buy about 17-20 feet of wire...On my explorer I used about 18 feet of wire for all of it
     
    aznboi3644, Oct 21, 2006
    #167
  8. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Where's the cheapest place to get the wire and ring terminals?

    I think I've decided on the kicker 06ZX1000.1 and two 05CVR15's (2ohm), and I'm having them throw in a sealed box with at least 2 cubic feet per chamber made from 3/4" MDF...just for sh!ts and giggles.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2006
    eazy, Oct 21, 2006
    #168
  9. Rodny

    Rodny Full Member

    Don't forget the fuse holder and the fuse!!
    You will need a ANL fuse and fuse holder.
     
    Rodny, Oct 21, 2006
    #169
  10. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    aznboi3644, Oct 21, 2006
    #170
  11. Rodny

    Rodny Full Member

    :) The amp comes with a fuse holder and fuse, I don't remenber if is for 2gauge o 1/0 wire.
     
    Rodny, Oct 21, 2006
    #171
  12. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member


    ABSOLUYTELY!!!! get the ANL fuse and holder, that thing you got for a fuce right now is a joke....I know you didnt know better and i am not slammin you....

    If you do a lot of stop and go driving,, YES get the biggest battery (highest reserve power) that will fit in your car...It helps, a little ............
     
    TheViking, Oct 21, 2006
    #172
  13. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Okay so according to the12volt, the big three consists of...

    1) alternator positive to battery positive
    2) battery negative to chassis
    3) engine ground to chassis.

    Is the cable from the battery to the amp included in the big three?
     
    eazy, Oct 21, 2006
    #173
  14. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Negative...its just the big three
     
    aznboi3644, Oct 22, 2006
    #174
  15. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Okay, so let me get this straight. I need to replace the wire from the battery to the amp with 0 gauge wire, and I need to do the big three with 0 gauge wire. I've never done anything like this before...or any type of wiring in my car. Am I going to be able to do this without totally screwing up my car?

    Is there some kit I can buy that will come with everything I need for the big three and the amp wiring? Or would it be cheaper to buy everything seperately?
     
    eazy, Oct 22, 2006
    #175
  16. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    the big three is easy.you are just going to bigger wireing.
    just get the proper end terminals,and make sure they are secured to the wire very tightly.

    unless there is something better .i used big ring crimps under the hood.these guys were heavy duty. had to use a hammer to crimp them.both ground and power are done this way.
     
    pedro quiroga, Oct 22, 2006
    #176
  17. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    okay...

    1) alternator positive to battery positive
    2) battery negative to chassis
    3) engine ground to chassis.

    In my car, there's...

    1. wire running from the +battery to the amplifier
    2. wire running from the +battery to the ford power distribution box
    3. wire running from the +battery to somewhere behind the engine that I can't see
    4. wire running from the power distribution box to the alternator
    5. wire running from the -battery to ground
    6. wire running from the -battery to somewhere behind the engine that I can't see
    7. wire running from the power distribution box to ground

    Do I have to replace all of that?
     
    eazy, Oct 22, 2006
    #177
  18. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    The big three conisist of the wires from.

    -Alternator to battery pos
    -Battery neg to chassis
    -Engine block to chassis/battery neg

    There is a kit right here for the big three that has everything you need
    http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php?cPath=28_56

    You do not have to replace it...simply run another length of wire along each or run the wire whever it is safe from heat and moving parts...normally the factory ground wires from the battery are of really small gauge so I just scrap them and replace the battery to chass with a new wire.

    Ok the wire from the battery neg to somewhere behind the engine is the engine block to battery negative wire...You can see it if you get underneath the car and find a wire that is connected to a non-essential bolt.

    The wire from the alternator to the power dist is the alternator to battery pos wire...you just have to run another length of wire from the output post to the battery pos...BUT PLEASE FUSE THE WIRE SOON AFTER THE ALTERNATOR

    Link on how to upgrade your big three
    http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=73496&PN=1
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2006
    aznboi3644, Oct 22, 2006
    #178
  19. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    The wire from the alternator to the battery really doesnt need to be any bigger than 4 Ga., but hey Wire the size of a 1 inch garden hose always looks cool!
     
    TheViking, Oct 22, 2006
    #179
  20. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Well Viking it won't hurt to go overboard...also it will look cool to have some massive wires
     
    aznboi3644, Oct 22, 2006
    #180
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